Xantia Hard Suspension

PicassoPigeon · Post by **PicassoPigeon** » 17 Jun 2008, 18:14

I did a rear sphere change about 3yrs ago and they are now getting hard, but I did a front sphere change about 2-3 months ago and that now also feels hard. It was really good when i did the front but it has soon gone hard again?
Would it be time for a hydraflush? Have I got duff spheres from GSF?

gav425

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 17 Jun 2008, 20:15

And you are really sure you did the Citaerobics ?

Sturdybloke · Post by **Sturdybloke** » 17 Jun 2008, 20:17

Have you tryed doing Citaerobics? You could have some trapped air in the system and it could be giving you a hard ride, doing this would work any air back to the reservoir where it will vent to atmosphere. After this I would suggest lubing the front strut rams (the bit behind the corrugated boot) with a bit of LHM to see if this improves things. Are you sure that you have the correct spheres for the car, as its not unknown for GSF (as with any other motor factor) to supply the wrong pair by mistake. Check the part no on the sphere with the website and see if they are suitable for your Xantia.

It would be very unusual for the spheres to "break" from what I am told. A pair of spheres can be regassed many times over a period of about 20-25 years without problems so a new pair *should be ok to rule out of the equation

* he says quietly

EDIT - Anders just beat me to it (dam slow connection)

PicassoPigeon · Post by **PicassoPigeon** » 18 Jun 2008, 11:13

Yes I have done lots of citaerobics. The front was fine for about 2 months and you would hardly even feel a speed bump but now its back to the old bump as you go over these.
No amount of citaerobics seems to help.

gav425

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 18 Jun 2008, 20:37

Another common problem is binding front struts, because of dry surfaces.
Lift up the gaiter on the front struts, then lube the exposed cylinder surface with any standard heavy grease. Use a rag to spread the grease around.
Do not use LHM as this is a hydraulic fluid, not a lubricant.
Remember to re-seat the gaiter correctly again.

The effect on ride comfort is most likely miraculous

If that does not help it must be the spheres running flat again.

Sturdybloke · Post by **Sturdybloke** » 18 Jun 2008, 21:59

AndersDK wrote:Lift up the gaiter on the front struts, then lube the exposed cylinder surface with any standard heavy grease.

I thought that you had to be very particular as to what type of grease you use near the suspension seals, in fear of killing them?

Thats why I suggested using LHM to see if the problem dissapears. If it does then find a suitable lubricant (read grease) to do the job for a longer period of time.

BTW, what are the chances of the spheres being flat or ruptured? I cant recall anyone on here mentioning it happening to them!

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 18 Jun 2008, 23:04

There is a considerable chance of the spheres being flat - especially if they have been re-gasssed. Its all a bit of pot luck but on my BX I had a pair of re-gassed ones bought unwittingly go flat after almost exactly 12 months - their replacements must have been on the car for nearly 7 years now and the back ones for a year less. However a new accumulator which I fitted as a precaution only lasted 12 months or so before going flat (went through the MOT with it flat!)

To test - get the car to normal height and try pressing the corners down. Back should sink a very long way - front is much harder.

I use 3 in 1 oil on my BX struts - a couple of drops through the hole in the top mount onto the strut rod seems to do the job (They are not very old). LHM is useless as it evaporates and runs away. Grease in the right place is fine - LHM is a mineral oil so mineral based lubricants are fine.

Xantia struts are of a superior design to BX ones and last much better.

Sturdybloke · Post by **Sturdybloke** » 18 Jun 2008, 23:46

I think I should stick to steel sprung cars

No intention to divert the thread from its original query. 12 weeks is a very short period of time to use a pair of spheres, hell even I know that. They should still be under warranty though?

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 19 Jun 2008, 20:25

Sturdybloke wrote:I think I should stick to steel sprung cars

No intention to divert the thread from its original query. 12 weeks is a very short period of time to use a pair of spheres, hell even I know that. They should still be under warranty though?

You are right - if it is indeed the spheres.
They should be like new after 1 yrs service.

PicassoPigeon · Post by **PicassoPigeon** » 20 Jun 2008, 12:15

I have been doing lots of citaerobics and when i move from high to normal the car drops front and back fine. When moving from low to high and back to low all is fine but when moving from low to normal only the back will rise and i have to move to high to get the front to come up.
Would this have anything to do with the front feeling hard?

gav425

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 20 Jun 2008, 16:20

yes - your front height corrector has siezed. Loads of info - you'll probably have to remove it and whilst not commercially viable - you may be able to dismantle it. clean it and re-use it.

Make sure no part of the linkage in its vicinity has bent and that the link is sound.

Its not commercially viable to overhaul it as the cost of labour to do it is similar to the cost of a new one.

isisalar · Post by **isisalar** » 21 Jun 2008, 18:48

Sturdy bloke recommended 'a suitable lubricant' (grease) for the front struts.Can anyone suggest a suitable grease please..Don't want to destroy my seals.
Thanks

lexi · Post by **lexi** » 21 Jun 2008, 19:00

Not sure what grease to use either. Red rubber brake grease wont affect rubber seals. Maybe a silicone brake grease? I wouldn`t use Lithium grease as it attacks rubber. The LHM may not be a bad idea after all. It is a mineral oil and is ok with rubber.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 21 Jun 2008, 19:35

Does not matter really what grease to use. Any standard grease for bearings, CV joints etc will do absolutely fine.
There are no elevated temperatures or sensitive sealings to cater for.

LHM is a mineral oil base, exactly like engine oil. Which means all types of general purpose grease are suited.

isisalar · Post by **isisalar** » 21 Jun 2008, 21:00

thank you andersdk.