Can I ask how you went about replacing the cable....coopertron wrote:Right everyone, an update on the proceedings so far.
I have replaced the upper cable....
Was it a difficult job?
Any good tips?
Zx 1.9td Volcane Speedo Wobble, Sticking/Juddering
Moderator: RichardW
-
uncle buck
- Posts: 591
- Joined: 10 Jan 2008, 19:53
- Location: UK - North east
- My Cars:
- x 5
-
RichardW
- Forum Treasurer
- Posts: 10890
- Joined: 07 Aug 2002, 17:12
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars: MK2 '17 C4GP 1.6 BlueHDi 120
'13 3008 1.6 HDi GripControl - x 1002
Our Zx does exactly this, but since the speedo is pretty accurate once rolling I just ignore it. The speedo in the Xantia on the other hand jumps from 0 -6 mph as soon as rolling, and is more optimistic then Brown and Darling are on the state of the economycooperton wrote:Basically when you stop the car, the speedo will still read say 10 mph. Eventually I think it returns to the rest postion but I am not sure as I reverse the car back onto the drive.
Richard W
-
coopertron
- Posts: 28
- Joined: 06 Mar 2008, 22:38
- Location:
- My Cars:
Hi Uncle Buck,
I replaced the cable as per the Haynes Manual guide (not that it is that informative).
I would recommend removing the rubber gromet thing between the bulkhead and the engine bay that the cable passes through, as this makes it awkward to put in and take out.
Basically you tie string/twine round the end of the old cable in the engine bay after uncoupling it from the lower section. Then pull the old cable through the dash inside the car (after removing the dash sections and speedo clock of course). Once you have pulled the cable out completely, attach the end of the new cable to the string/twine that you have dragged through with the old cable, and then pull the new cable back through the dash and the bulkhead and back into the engine bay.
Refit the rubber gromet to the cable and the hole in the engine bay, and the cable to the speedo clock.
At this point, I found the outer sheath of the new cable was too long, by about a couple of inches at least, so I had to cut the excess off.
I would recommend using strong twine rather than string to tie round the end of the old cable in the engine bay, as the string I used snapped when I started to pull the cable back through, though fortunately I had pulled it far enough that I could reach through the hole in the engine bay and retrieve the cable...
I replaced the cable as per the Haynes Manual guide (not that it is that informative).
I would recommend removing the rubber gromet thing between the bulkhead and the engine bay that the cable passes through, as this makes it awkward to put in and take out.
Basically you tie string/twine round the end of the old cable in the engine bay after uncoupling it from the lower section. Then pull the old cable through the dash inside the car (after removing the dash sections and speedo clock of course). Once you have pulled the cable out completely, attach the end of the new cable to the string/twine that you have dragged through with the old cable, and then pull the new cable back through the dash and the bulkhead and back into the engine bay.
Refit the rubber gromet to the cable and the hole in the engine bay, and the cable to the speedo clock.
At this point, I found the outer sheath of the new cable was too long, by about a couple of inches at least, so I had to cut the excess off.
I would recommend using strong twine rather than string to tie round the end of the old cable in the engine bay, as the string I used snapped when I started to pull the cable back through, though fortunately I had pulled it far enough that I could reach through the hole in the engine bay and retrieve the cable...
-
uncle buck
- Posts: 591
- Joined: 10 Jan 2008, 19:53
- Location: UK - North east
- My Cars:
- x 5
