Steering sticky on ZX

stuartggray · Post by **stuartggray** » 04 Mar 2008, 21:58

Steering goes stiff and won't self centre. Clunk coming from front off side. Does this sound like bottom ball joints needing replaced? Upper suspension bearings are new, track rod ends are new, power steering works, new tyres on front, tracking is possibly not toed in enough, as in I think they are dead ahead. I would hate to get the tracking done, then need ball joints, only to need the tracking done again.

deian · Post by **deian** » 04 Mar 2008, 22:41

Join the club. I have the same symptoms, cluncking at low speeds on tight-ish turns (not driveshaft clicks)?

But my stiff steering is due to a slack belt when the wheel is turned under load (not when the belt screeches, that only happens when it's first started).

As for the tracking, they shouldn't be toe'd in. They should be toe'd out, have them straight ahead and they fight. Rule of thumb is, toe out for FWD cars, row in for RWD. How much depends on the manufacturers.

But if the steering feels like it's drifiting then they aren't toe'd out enough and are fighting each other, and tramlining. Get it toe'd out more and it will drive more true to straight. Also depends on tyre tread and of course don't forget to check the pressure on the tyres and that they are the same on both sides, even check the back one are what they should be and equal side to side too, not sure how much it would affect bad tracking, but it's good practise in my opinion.

I won't personally bother with the tracking (been down that route), I cannot stand taking it to an amateur at kwik-fit who has the right tools but not the patience to do the job as trained, when I myself know as much as them but have not got the right tools. Sod's law states that if I pay £20 get it done I will by chance kerb my car on my way out of the car park.

Sorry I can't help you there, but I will join in if and when I can.

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 04 Mar 2008, 22:55

I think its toe out not toe in on a ZX - like most front wheel drive cars.

Wear in the bottom swivels should be detectable with various combinations of levers and jacking of the front suspension to simulate load etc.

Make sure the drive belt if good and tight - intermittent loading of the steering is generally due to a slack drive belt.

The ZX may have a 2 piece crankshaft pulley (clearly visible if you look at it - its quite heavy and from the end you can see a band of rubber about 1/2 inch from the outside.) After a while they separate and eventually the outer part becomes detached. To check mark a line across the 2 pieces (with typex or white paint for example) - drive the car and see if the line is still straight.

stuartggray · Post by **stuartggray** » 04 Mar 2008, 23:56

Thanks for the replies. I didn't realise the ZX needed toe out, It's the first front wheel drive car I've had. That could be the problem, I've been setting it up like I set up my old Volvos, rear wheel drive, but having it as close to dammit as parallel. I spent today toeing it in and it's a bit better than it was, which could indicate that the ball joints are screwed, because I should be toeing it out according to you guys. The huge serpentine drive belt is a bit loose, but not to the stage of squealing when cold. Is it worth tightening it up a bit ? It seems to turn all the wheels it is meant to.

stuartggray · Post by **stuartggray** » 05 Mar 2008, 00:14

I've just had a look at the Haynes manual for the Cit ZX Diesel. It says toe out for non PAS cars at 0.5 - 2.5 mm, but toe in of -1.5 -3.5 mm for PAS cars. Mine is a PAS. So it should be toed in, which it is. Must be the bottom ball joints being worn that is the problem, throwing the caster out, preventing the wheel returning to centre after turing a corner. Remember I have replaced top bearing, trackrod ends, new tyres on it, and this problem has only started now after years of perfect steering. I've never replaced the bottom end ball joints.

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 06 Mar 2008, 08:03

If the joints are not slack you could try lubricating them. I have used a grease nipple attached to a hollow needle which can be pushed through the rubber boot on ours - just as preventative maintenance. The device was sold by Draper (who have a large on line catalogue) and I seem to remember had to be obtained mail order.

Sorry about the toe in/out confusion - teach me to check the book before making statements.