xantia alternator

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john alexander
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xantia alternator

Post by john alexander »

Hi can anyone tell me how to remove and refit the aux belt on a 1.9td with a/c . it has a spring down the back of the alternator. thanks , john.
wrinklet1
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Post by wrinklet1 »

Hi, I am not 100% sure, but I think you need to get the drivers side front wheel off, then it will allow you access to a bolt that is vertical behind the aux belt. Undo the bolt and it will allow the alternator to drop and you can remove the belt. Remember how the belt goes around the pulleys though.

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Post by CitroJim »

Alternatively, you may well find you have the eccentric semi-automatic tensioner.

In which case, as Paul says, wheel off, mudshield off and spot the tensioner wheel with a 6mm Allen (Hex) bolt through the middle of it with a 1/4" square hole to one side of it. Loosen the 6mm Allen bolt and allow the tensioner to spin around to the smallest diamater its eccentric allows. Normally this is enough to slip the belt off. If not, relieve the spring tensioner by insering a 3/8" square drive in the hole on its flange (very similar to the cambelt tensioner) and push/pull until the tensioner wheel it controls takes sufficient tension out of the belt to allow removal. As the BoL says, reassembly is a reveral of disassembly. In fact the BoL covers this tensioner set-up reasonably well

Tension by inserting a 1/4" square drive "T" bar in the hole in the eccentric tensioner and turn it until the belt has a good bit of tension and the spring tensioner has come into play. The belt needs to be tight. Finally, nip up the 6mm Allen bolt reasonably tightly but not too tight.
Jim

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Post by XantiaMan »

citrojim wrote:Alternatively, you may well find you have the eccentric semi-automatic tensioner.

In which case, as Paul says, wheel off, mudshield off and spot the tensioner wheel with a 6mm Allen (Hex) bolt through the middle of it with a 1/4" square hole to one side of it. Loosen the 6mm Allen bolt and allow the tensioner to spin around to the smallest diamater its eccentric allows. Normally this is enough to slip the belt off. If not, relieve the spring tensioner by insering a 3/8" square drive in the hole on its flange (very similar to the cambelt tensioner) and push/pull until the tensioner wheel it controls takes sufficient tension out of the belt to allow removal. As the BoL says, reassembly is a reveral of disassembly. In fact the BoL covers this tensioner set-up reasonably well

Tension by inserting a 1/4" square drive "T" bar in the hole in the eccentrictensioner and turn it until the belt has a good bit of tension and the spring tensioner has come into play. The belt needs to be tight. Finally, nip up the 6mm Allen bolt reasonably tightly but not too tight.
Is it possible for this tensioner to not be correctly adjusted after a belt change and for it to cause a rattling/grumbling noise? Mine has done this ever since an Aux belt change, not done by me!

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Post by CitroJim »

XantiaMan583 wrote: Is it possible for this tensioner to not be correctly adjusted after a belt change and for it to cause a rattling/grumbling noise? Mine has done this ever since an Aux belt change, not done by me!

Gareth
Yes Gareth, I will expand more at the end of this post.

Although generally I find most XUD motors have a rattly aux belt tensioner :roll: I can usually hear them coming :lol: :lol: I tend to set them by ear actually, until the clatter is at a minimum just above idle when the belt seems to hit its natural resonant frequency and shakes around the most. :) In any case they need to be TIGHT.

If you look at the BoL (Page 1B.14), the 1.9 tensioner arragement shown is only applicable to 1.9s with A/C up to RP7358 (i.e. early ones). Later 1.9s use the 2.1TD setup shown in fig 15.35. The BoL instructions for setting the eccentric is confusing to say the least.

I imterpret it like this and I'm still not sure it's right :?

Engage the 3/8 drive bar on the upper tensioner pivot and pull it toward you until you can insert the setting rod (easier said than done). This nearly completely compresses the tensioner spring.

Now adjust the eccentric tensioner until you can freely slide the setting rod in an out without touching the 3/8 drive bar. This shows the eccentric is putting a little more pressure on the spring, just compressing it a little more and thus freeing the rod.

Tighten up the eccentric tensioner and remove the setting rod, job done.

This will set the belt very tight (as it needs to be) and you may well find the eccentric is on the limit of its travel (or eccentricy) to achieve this level of tension. In fact, the eccentic on it's limit is often as right as you can get it.

And still it's noisy however you adjust it. This I think is a combination of small amounts of wear in the tensioner jockey wheels and after-market belts being just a little longer than they strictly should be to make them easier to fit. Also, if you don't adequately tighten the 6mm Allen stud after adjustment, it can work loose and take most of the tension out of the belt.

The most important thing is to ensure the spring tensioner is actually doing something and not just sitting there at minimum compression not actually automatically tensioning at all. Finally, it is not unknown for the spring tensioner to seize on it's pivot and thus cease to function as intended. They are rarely replaced because of this as they are both expensive at £86 a pop and a mission to replace :twisted:
Jim

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Post by XantiaMan »

Thanks for that Jim!

I heard a 406 drive past today, like you, i heard it coming! I am just concerned the longer i leave it the more likely it is something is going to break. Its quite likely the belt is just a bit too long and it wasnt adjusted correctly, as the guy doing it was short on time. It was unnoticeable before the belt was done.


Gareth
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