Xantia rear pipes

Ciaran · Post by **Ciaran** » 21 Jan 2008, 23:49

Good evening folks.

I was wondering, has anyone here ever repiped the rear of a Xantia ('95 S1 non hydractive)?
If so, is there much involved? Does the subframe have to come down, given that there are no hydractive spheres to worry about?

I'd be interested to hear your views.

Cheers

Ciarán

Post by **aerodynamica** » 22 Jan 2008, 00:27

Sorry, I've never re piped a full rear end on anything tho I have replaced some pipes on a BX, 2 CXs, GSA, and one front pipe on a Xantia.

Question is: how com you need to replace all the pipes!? that's lots.

Ciaran · Post by **Ciaran** » 22 Jan 2008, 01:53

Well, I haven't been under it myself for a while, but we were looking to put it back on the road, and a relative had it up in the air, and came back with stories of the back end looking severely rusted, pipes looking terrible, subframe needing attention etc etc.

Its due an MOT soon, so I suspect if the pipes look as bad as I'm led to believe (I'll look properly when I can get over to the car), it'll fail.
Mind you, if it can deal with the kind of pressures in there, they're probably sound, but still...
I may well be making work for myself here, but just wanted to get an idea of whats involved if I do need to do it. I'm hoping not though!

Cheers

Ciarán

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 22 Jan 2008, 08:20

you are probably best stick it in for a MOT to find out exactly what you have got to do for the test, the only down side is you do have to get it back for a re/test with in 10 working days not including weekens/bank holls, if you cant get it back wth in that time VOSAs rules say you are ment to pay a full MOT fee again and have a full test carried out,

when pipes do need replaceing its usualy because they are touching each outher or the body of the car, as these pipes are black powder coated
regards malcolm

Ciaran · Post by **Ciaran** » 22 Jan 2008, 19:58

Thanks Malcolm.

I've been thinking of doing just that, to see what it fails on, might be worthwhile checking what it fails on before piling a load of work into it, can't hurt to try anyway.

I've yet to see the pipes for myself, they may not be all that bad. When you say the pipes are powder coated, does that mean they don't tend to rust?

Cheers

slim123 · Post by **slim123** » 22 Jan 2008, 22:11

If you make up your own pipes I can see no reason for removing the subframe, even the trickyest pipes can be sorted by making up one end, crimping the other end to stop the muck from entering, then feed it between the subframe and body, shape it and cut to fit, then slide a pipe fitting on and flare up the other end.

Is trickyest a proper word??????????????

Regards
Slim.

Ciaran · Post by **Ciaran** » 22 Jan 2008, 22:27

Not dropping the subframe sounds great to me Slim

, though would you not need to clip or fix the pipe to something as it runs between the subframe and body, to stop it moving / vibrating?

Cheers

Ciarán

slim123 · Post by **slim123** » 22 Jan 2008, 22:48

I have never re-piped a Xantia, although I have done a few odd repairs, you should be able to get the pipes back into the original position and into all the clips. You can on a BX.

Top Tip from the potting shed!!
If you think that there is a chance that the pipe will rub or vibrate, before flaring up the other end, slide a piece of rubber tube over the pipe.

Regards
Slim.

rory_perrett · Post by **rory_perrett** » 22 Jan 2008, 23:00

How rusty is rusty and which pipes. I got an advisory from my friendly (yes he really is friendly) MOT tester for rusty rear pipes two years ago, particularly the feed pipes to the rear spheres. In the end they looked worse than they were and after a good clean up and a re-paint the car went straight through a year later.

uncle buck · Post by **uncle buck** » 22 Jan 2008, 23:25

slim123 wrote:Top Tip from the potting shed!!
If you think that there is a chance that the pipe will rub or vibrate, before flaring up the other end, slide a piece of rubber tube over the pipe.

Should that not read.... once you've realised that you have forgot to place the rubber tube on the pipe before you flared the end slice the rubber pipe down its length & keep it in place with cable ties.

If the pipes are plastic coated and are anything like brake pipes once the plastic coating starts to flake off it makes the pipes look like they are really badly corroded when in fact a lot of the time its just the odd bit of surface rust here & there.
If this is the case just scrape / sand this off & give them a really good coat of CV grease & they will be fine for the MOT

....it's amazing how greasing up pipes make them pass the MOT !

Regards, UB

Ciaran · Post by **Ciaran** » 22 Jan 2008, 23:55

uncle buck wrote:[....it's amazing how greasing up pipes make them pass the MOT !

Right enough, I did pull that one with one of my XMs last year and it passed no problem

Will defs investigate further.

Cheers

Ciaran · Post by **Ciaran** » 23 Jan 2008, 00:05

slim123 wrote:I have never re-piped a Xantia, although I have done a few odd repairs, you should be able to get the pipes back into the original position and into all the clips. You can on a BX.

Top Tip from the potting shed!!
If you think that there is a chance that the pipe will rub or vibrate, before flaring up the other end, slide a piece of rubber tube over the pipe.

Regards
Slim.

Thanks for that Slim, good to know its possible if the worst happens. I'm going to try cleaning them up first and chance my arm

Cheers

Ciarán

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 23 Jan 2008, 08:01

i allways drop the sub frame on all the BXs i have done for my customers, this way you can make sure they go exactly were they are ment to,

also i have seen so many BXs were people have just thrown the pipes up there which have rubbed through against something with in a couple of weeks

i havent done a XANT yet but cant see any problems doing so,

and i say it again they usualy start rustting if they are in contact with them selfs or any thing elss
regards malcolm