Activa Notchy Gearchange

Post by **CitroJim** » 11 Jan 2008, 10:10

Since I've had my 2.1TD which uses essentially the same gearbox as my Activa, the ML5, I have noticed a tremendous difference in the quality of the gearchange between the two.

My 2.1TD gearchange is silky smooth and as near perfect as can be. My Activa gearchage is dreadful in comparason. It is notchy and often baulks into third and is very stiff when cold. The 2.1TD is never stiff however cold it or the wather is. I always thought it was just how the cable-change ML5 was but it seems not

I'm suspecting my Activa 'box has the wrong oil in it, knowing that a BE3 'box can do all kinds of funnies with the wrong oil in it.

Question is, what is the correct oil for an ML5? Is it the same as the BE3, Total BV 75W/80?

Post by **RichardW** » 12 Jan 2008, 11:04

Jim,

Thought I replied yesterday, but it seems to have gone AWOL....

Anyway, neither my handbook nor Haynes suggests anything other than the normal Total stuff. Worth a call to your local dealer to ask? When we changed a drive shaft seal on my Sister's Xantia last year my Dad went to the local Cit/Pug garage and got something that wasn't total but they said they used in everything (also 75W-80).

By all accounts refilling the ML5 box is interesting

Might be a problem with the gear change cables - these are known to stretch eventually and cause selection problems? How about clutch drag - might you be finding out how tough a ML5 clutch change is soon - book time for the HDi 110 is EIGHT hours

Post by **CitroJim** » 12 Jan 2008, 11:31

Thanks Richard

Sounds like fun, I've seen where the fill/level plug is

No, the clutch is fine, thank goodness. 8 hours book time to change

It'll be the 2.1 that needs a clutch before the Activa.

It's a nice sunny day here so I'll get her up on ramps and see what the gearbox oil looks like and contemplate changing it.

It really does feel like a BE3 box that has been filled with EP90 and I've had a few Pugs where that has been done...

It could be the cables as the gear lever sits in a different position compared to my 2.1 but static gear selection is not a problem. I was under the belief that the first sign would be difficulty in engaging reverse?

Luckily, it seems that MK2 gearchange cables are both simpler and cheaper to replace than MK1 cables...

Post by **CitroJim** » 26 Jan 2008, 21:01

Thanks to Karel for the following tip...

marsalek wrote: changing the gearbox oil is not as bad. I filled oil through the reverse-gear switch (spanner 22mm) afer removing the air filter box. You do not need to locate the lever plug (still do not know where it is located), just pour 2.0 liters of oil an you are done

..which works a treat

Thanks Karel!

The drain plug has an 8mm square and I had to make a tool to get it undone. I refilled using a small funnel with an extension pipe on it. Overall a doddle of a job

The result? An utter transformation

The gearchange is now silky-smooth and no more baulking into 3rd

I can do a racing downshift into third at 60mph with no problem now. It is almost unbelievable what a difference an oil change has made.

I used Comma 75W/80, an oil I have used with excellent results in BE3 'boxes in the past.