Hi all..
My (internet found - electronic) haynes doesn't seem to cover all possible wiring circuits...
I am particulaly after AC system and ABS system.. but at Chapter 13 Page 69 it stops.. is this all haynes gives us?
Someone has seemingly wired my ABS warning light to my alternator charge light.. (and I have no ABS function at all) .. the light goes out when the alternator reaches charging voltage (instantly you start car up)
on a different note, when AC is activated, nothing happens at all, no fan, no compressor clutch, no clicks...
Just looking for places to begin checks..
John
Haynes question
Moderator: RichardW
The ABS warning light has been wired in an attempt to fool an MOT tester that the system is going through its self test satisfactorily.
Usual fault on ABS is the sensors which can be checked for continuity using a multimeter - and if the problem is the leads which it usually is - they can be carefully repaired.
I understand that some of the earlier ABS ECU's can fail.
Loads of details on here probably for the AC as well.
Usual fault on ABS is the sensors which can be checked for continuity using a multimeter - and if the problem is the leads which it usually is - they can be carefully repaired.
I understand that some of the earlier ABS ECU's can fail.
Loads of details on here probably for the AC as well.
jeremy
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Haynes will tell you f-all about the ABS or AC systems
Are you sure the ABS light is wired to the charge light - that period of time is about right for it to go out anyway - does it go out if you just switch the ignition on and leave it (not start the engine)? If it is the case, then the hacked wiring should be obvious either under the steering shrouds, or behind the inst panel. As noted a failed sensor is the most likely ABS problem.
The A/C problem might simply be no gas - there is an LP cut out, and if there is not enogh system pressure nothing will happen.
Are you sure the ABS light is wired to the charge light - that period of time is about right for it to go out anyway - does it go out if you just switch the ignition on and leave it (not start the engine)? If it is the case, then the hacked wiring should be obvious either under the steering shrouds, or behind the inst panel. As noted a failed sensor is the most likely ABS problem.
The A/C problem might simply be no gas - there is an LP cut out, and if there is not enogh system pressure nothing will happen.
Richard W
The A/C wont turn on unless the slider switch is on auto or slide to the right until the fan comes on. When set at the fan off position you can hear the difference in the revs, mine jumps up to 1050rpm when moved to auto from the off position, that is with the A/C button depressed, your light may be dull also so its hard to tell if its on or not..
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Cant comment to much on the ABS problem although im convinced someone here does have a pin in/out picture of the abs ecu to identify each sensor cant find it at present
EDIT try this link
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... bs+ecu+pin
may be able to shed some light on the A/C setup
from memory the system has a set check list before the A/C clutch will engage on the compressor
1.engine must be running
2. interior fan must be set to auto/spin (not sure what heater setup you have but if you set auto and go min/max this stops auto working on mine (96 P plate)
3.A/C switch on
4.both fans must spin together on slow speed *link for fan wiring http://www.peugeotlogic.com/workshop/ws ... fanop1.htm
5.if the above are ok then we get to the HP/LP switch on the reciever/dryer. if level of coolant ok then LP inhibitor off and clutch should engage.
the HP/LP switch can be bridged to test its functions it has 4 wires 2 thick 2 thin going to the plug .by bridging either set you should get one of the following a) both fans cut in at full speed this is the HP default b) the clutch kicks in on the compressor the LP override
not 100% but i think thick wires cut the fans in
if you do bridge wires and kick the compressor in dont run for more than 1-2 secs as damage will be caused due to lack of coolant
im sure Clogzz or Alan will put straight what ive got wrong but im going on a 96 P plate xantia guessing it wont be too dissimilar
Colin
EDIT try this link
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... bs+ecu+pin
may be able to shed some light on the A/C setup
from memory the system has a set check list before the A/C clutch will engage on the compressor
1.engine must be running
2. interior fan must be set to auto/spin (not sure what heater setup you have but if you set auto and go min/max this stops auto working on mine (96 P plate)
3.A/C switch on
4.both fans must spin together on slow speed *link for fan wiring http://www.peugeotlogic.com/workshop/ws ... fanop1.htm
5.if the above are ok then we get to the HP/LP switch on the reciever/dryer. if level of coolant ok then LP inhibitor off and clutch should engage.
the HP/LP switch can be bridged to test its functions it has 4 wires 2 thick 2 thin going to the plug .by bridging either set you should get one of the following a) both fans cut in at full speed this is the HP default b) the clutch kicks in on the compressor the LP override
not 100% but i think thick wires cut the fans in
if you do bridge wires and kick the compressor in dont run for more than 1-2 secs as damage will be caused due to lack of coolant
im sure Clogzz or Alan will put straight what ive got wrong but im going on a 96 P plate xantia guessing it wont be too dissimilar
Colin
I ain't gunna argue too much with that test.
Just keep in mind though, that the air/con is designed to bring temperatures down and if the ambient air temp is below that selected on the temp selector, it's not going to go anyway.
Might sound stoopid, but you'd be amazed at how many get caught with that in cold climates.
Alan S
Just keep in mind though, that the air/con is designed to bring temperatures down and if the ambient air temp is below that selected on the temp selector, it's not going to go anyway.
Might sound stoopid, but you'd be amazed at how many get caught with that in cold climates.
Alan S
RIP Sept 19th 2008.
She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!
She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!
Aircon should work regardless of the ambient temperature.....it has two functions, one being the obvious, to cool the car in the summer, but it's second main function is to dry the air, which makes demisting on cold damp mornings so much quicker in 'conned cars.
Don't forget, the manual tells you to use it during the winter to maintain the seals, so if it's not working, there's something wrong with it, no matter how cold the ambient temp is.
Don't forget, the manual tells you to use it during the winter to maintain the seals, so if it's not working, there's something wrong with it, no matter how cold the ambient temp is.
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hi bxbodger
as for the ambient temp (inside the car) as i understand it if its colder in the car than the A/C can get the temp down to then it wont work. if it didnt have a low temp cut off then surely it would turn the inside into a freezer
i am prepared to be corrected on this cos its not based on any real technical knowledge
colin
as for the ambient temp (inside the car) as i understand it if its colder in the car than the A/C can get the temp down to then it wont work. if it didnt have a low temp cut off then surely it would turn the inside into a freezer
i am prepared to be corrected on this cos its not based on any real technical knowledge
colin
You are almost there Colin 8)admiral51 wrote:hi bxbodger
as for the ambient temp (inside the car) as i understand it if its colder in the car than the A/C can get the temp down to then it wont work. if it didnt have a low temp cut off then surely it would turn the inside into a freezer
i am prepared to be corrected on this cos its not based on any real technical knowledge
colin
However its not the interior temperature shutting off the a/c - but the exterior temp at some (plus) 4-5degC.
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
bxbodger wrote:Aircon should work regardless of the ambient temperature.....it has two functions, one being the obvious, to cool the car in the summer, but it's second main function is to dry the air, which makes demisting on cold damp mornings so much quicker in 'conned cars.
Don't forget, the manual tells you to use it during the winter to maintain the seals, so if it's not working, there's something wrong with it, no matter how cold the ambient temp is.
Good luck with that one.
Tell me, what temperature does a deep freeze cut out in say winter in Finland when the thermostats cut out temp is -15 and the ambient - 25???
If the heater is first run to increase the ambient temp inside the cabin, it should go, if not, at best you can expect a coil full of frost and a shorted sensor being the fault.
There's been plenty caught with this one before.
Alan S
RIP Sept 19th 2008.
She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!
She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!