Need to get a cambelt kit for my 97 1.9TD. Do i need to replace the tensioners i.e are they a weak point? What is the correct kit?
Gareth
Cambelt kit - Which one?
Moderator: RichardW
Cambelt kit - Which one?
2003 Ford Mondeo ST220
2002 Ford Fiesta Zetec S
2001 Ford Puma 1.7 VCT
2008 Ford Transit Mk7
http://www.facebook.com/kidmans" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
2002 Ford Fiesta Zetec S
2001 Ford Puma 1.7 VCT
2008 Ford Transit Mk7
http://www.facebook.com/kidmans" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
- Xaccers
- Posts: 7654
- Joined: 07 Feb 2007, 23:46
- Location: Milling around Milton Keynes
- My Cars:
- x 184
Replace the water pump though.
1.9TD+ SX Xantia Estate (Cassy) running on 100% veg
1.9TD SX Xantia Hatchback (Jenny) running on 100% veg for sale
Laguna II 2.0dCi Privilege (Monty)
DIY sphere tool
1.9TD SX Xantia Hatchback (Jenny) running on 100% veg for sale
Laguna II 2.0dCi Privilege (Monty)
DIY sphere tool
- CitroJim
- A very naughty boy
- Posts: 49661
- Joined: 30 Apr 2005, 23:33
- Location: Paggers
- My Cars: Bluebell the AX, Polly the C3 Picasso, Pix the Nissan Pixo, Propel the duathlon bike, TCR Pro the road bike and Fuji the TT bike...
- x 6204
- Contact:
Yep, I'd agree Mez. The tensioner is pretty meaty and lasts very well in my experience.
Personally, because I'm paranoid I change my cambelts much more frequently than I strictly need to at roughly two-yearly intervals on all my XU powered fleet so I tend to just look at the tensioners and spin them. If they feel smooth and run silently I take a chance and re-use them and then spend every subsequent journey listening for the tell-tale signs of the tensioner getting a bit unhappy
That works for me and touch-wood, I've never had a problem and only once replaced one (on the GTi). If doing the job and running a lot of miles before changing it again then I'd replace for peace of mind, especially if the car is driven by people who are deaf to odd mechanical sounds or you're doing the job for someone else
The vital and important thing is to tighten the tensioner pinch and pivot bolts adequately after changing the belt and tensioning the new one. It's easy to forget this vital step and it's worth a check after a few hundred miles to ensure the belt is still correctly tensioned and in a happy state.
Personally, because I'm paranoid I change my cambelts much more frequently than I strictly need to at roughly two-yearly intervals on all my XU powered fleet so I tend to just look at the tensioners and spin them. If they feel smooth and run silently I take a chance and re-use them and then spend every subsequent journey listening for the tell-tale signs of the tensioner getting a bit unhappy
That works for me and touch-wood, I've never had a problem and only once replaced one (on the GTi). If doing the job and running a lot of miles before changing it again then I'd replace for peace of mind, especially if the car is driven by people who are deaf to odd mechanical sounds or you're doing the job for someone else
The vital and important thing is to tighten the tensioner pinch and pivot bolts adequately after changing the belt and tensioning the new one. It's easy to forget this vital step and it's worth a check after a few hundred miles to ensure the belt is still correctly tensioned and in a happy state.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Just replaced cambelt 2.nd time on SIL's BX 19D.
It had run some 100K km since fitted new - a bit overdue.
All the running gear was changed too, as it also was last time with the belt.
The water pump and idler proved fine. Looked and felt like new when spinned - but replaced as well.
The tensioner however had clearance and noise in the bearing
In this instance clearly only lasted that one belt.
Note that this is the early type ('89) XUD9.
It had run some 100K km since fitted new - a bit overdue.
All the running gear was changed too, as it also was last time with the belt.
The water pump and idler proved fine. Looked and felt like new when spinned - but replaced as well.
The tensioner however had clearance and noise in the bearing
In this instance clearly only lasted that one belt.
Note that this is the early type ('89) XUD9.
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
Could someone tell me what the GSF or euro car parts part number is for the kit?
2003 Ford Mondeo ST220
2002 Ford Fiesta Zetec S
2001 Ford Puma 1.7 VCT
2008 Ford Transit Mk7
http://www.facebook.com/kidmans" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
2002 Ford Fiesta Zetec S
2001 Ford Puma 1.7 VCT
2008 Ford Transit Mk7
http://www.facebook.com/kidmans" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
- CitroJim
- A very naughty boy
- Posts: 49661
- Joined: 30 Apr 2005, 23:33
- Location: Paggers
- My Cars: Bluebell the AX, Polly the C3 Picasso, Pix the Nissan Pixo, Propel the duathlon bike, TCR Pro the road bike and Fuji the TT bike...
- x 6204
- Contact:
GSF: N12935 Cam Belt and Tensioner Kit Xantia D/TD >98 (up to 1998) £64XantiaMan583 wrote:Could someone tell me what the GSF or euro car parts part number is for the kit?
Cam tensioner kit on its own N13030 £45
Belt on its own N13113 £9.25
Do the maths
Give GSF a ring and ask them why the kit is dearer than the two items separately. Also ask them the difference; it may be one is a different manufacturer. The kit could be OEM whereas the two separate items may be pattern.
GSF are great to deal with. I found an error in their 205 Distributor caps listing and they very quickly and smoothly sorted it out. The above could be an error so it'll be worth a check
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...