Hi Everyone,
I am new to the forum having purchase as N Reg ZX TD Aura at 72K. Brillant little car (so far) and have found answers to a few quirks on this forum - thanks!
One problem I do have is that the rear brakes (drums) are locking up on the first few applications of the foot pedal in the morning or if the car has been left standing for a while. After a 3 or 4 applications it goes away and the 'balance' seems to be restored, although I have always felt that they are not that powerful (I though the French had very powerful brakes!?).
Any have any ideas?
Cheers
Al.
ZX TD Aura - Rear Brakes Locking Up
Moderator: RichardW
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aimcarthur
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aimcarthur
- Posts: 18
- Joined: 20 Aug 2007, 07:06
- Location:
- My Cars:
Rear Brakes Locking
Thanks. I will take of the drums and give them a good clean for start.
I had perhaps thought it might have been a compensator valve or load apportioning value or similar?
Cheers for now.
Al.
I had perhaps thought it might have been a compensator valve or load apportioning value or similar?
Cheers for now.
Al.
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handyman
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Hi, it could be the brake adjuster system, which is inside the drums, as these can seize due to brake dust. Some earlier ones used to snap the link as it was made from an alloy akin to lead. The later kits are a nice forged bronze item. If you need to buy the parts, go to a Peugeot dealer as the parts are also fitted to the 309 and Peugeot parts are cheaper.
Having thought about it, I think your problem is seized handbrake cables. Jack up the back of the car and release the handbrake to see if it is one side or both. The cables are not expensive and are relatively easy to fit. I think you will find details in the forum if you do a search.
Handyman, IKBA
Having thought about it, I think your problem is seized handbrake cables. Jack up the back of the car and release the handbrake to see if it is one side or both. The cables are not expensive and are relatively easy to fit. I think you will find details in the forum if you do a search.
Handyman, IKBA
The back brakes on our ZX 1.9D have been one of the most problematic parts of the car - and are now fine after replacement of the linings, cables, cylinders and adjusters.
My comments on the system are that its rather delicate and prone to problems - which I suppose is unfair as it may not have received any attention for 10 years in the first place. Having got it working properly - the car stops like a Citroen should - well nearly and the handbrake works well.
I haven't found any load limiter. Haynes says something about rear cylinders but I'm not sure and didn't bother to read it very carefully as it would be there anyway.
I have come across mystery locking of drum brakes before and have usually managed to cure it by cleaning everything and bevelling the LEADING edge of the linings. This is an old fashioned cure and the idea is to prevent the leading edge picking up on the drum. The drums themselves often corrode a bit in the damp night air - and the leading edge will pick up and - as its designed to - pull itself onto the drum surface and grip it.
I've always found a simple 45 degree cut to be adequate and usually make it with a chisel. A craft knife or similar could be used. Abrasives or files will produce dust which is now harmless but used to contain asbestos.
My comments on the system are that its rather delicate and prone to problems - which I suppose is unfair as it may not have received any attention for 10 years in the first place. Having got it working properly - the car stops like a Citroen should - well nearly and the handbrake works well.
I haven't found any load limiter. Haynes says something about rear cylinders but I'm not sure and didn't bother to read it very carefully as it would be there anyway.
I have come across mystery locking of drum brakes before and have usually managed to cure it by cleaning everything and bevelling the LEADING edge of the linings. This is an old fashioned cure and the idea is to prevent the leading edge picking up on the drum. The drums themselves often corrode a bit in the damp night air - and the leading edge will pick up and - as its designed to - pull itself onto the drum surface and grip it.
I've always found a simple 45 degree cut to be adequate and usually make it with a chisel. A craft knife or similar could be used. Abrasives or files will produce dust which is now harmless but used to contain asbestos.
jeremy
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aimcarthur
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Thank you all for your advice.
A few other problems!
1.
On a very cold start (i.e not in the garage) it fires up straight away but misses just for a second or two accompanied by smoke and then settles down. I have put a new battery on (needed it anyway) to the correct spec, but also leaving the glow plugs to heat for a 5 seconds or so more means that it starts perfectly. Also if left in the garage overnight, again it starts perfectly with no smoke or roughness.
I suspect I have a faulty glow plug or two?
Would anyone agree?
2. A rust hole has appeared just above the power steering reservior, but below the suspension strut. From looking below in the wheel arch, I see the plastic protection has comeaway, perhaps hence causing the rust. I have sanded away the rust (leaving a hole of about 0.5 inch wide) and intend applying rust treatment, filling the hole, painting and then undersealing the wheel arch.
Is this the best way to tackle the problem?
Is it likely to cause MOT issues?
The car has had one owner from new (to 72k) and only did 8 miles to work and back each day roughly plus hols etc... In the 2k I have had it has loosened up alot and does not smoke at all.
I will try this out over the bank holiday weekend and let you know the results.
Many thanks to you all.
I very helpful and informative forum. I hope I cna have some input once I become more familar with the car.
Alastair
A few other problems!
1.
On a very cold start (i.e not in the garage) it fires up straight away but misses just for a second or two accompanied by smoke and then settles down. I have put a new battery on (needed it anyway) to the correct spec, but also leaving the glow plugs to heat for a 5 seconds or so more means that it starts perfectly. Also if left in the garage overnight, again it starts perfectly with no smoke or roughness.
I suspect I have a faulty glow plug or two?
Would anyone agree?
2. A rust hole has appeared just above the power steering reservior, but below the suspension strut. From looking below in the wheel arch, I see the plastic protection has comeaway, perhaps hence causing the rust. I have sanded away the rust (leaving a hole of about 0.5 inch wide) and intend applying rust treatment, filling the hole, painting and then undersealing the wheel arch.
Is this the best way to tackle the problem?
Is it likely to cause MOT issues?
The car has had one owner from new (to 72k) and only did 8 miles to work and back each day roughly plus hols etc... In the 2k I have had it has loosened up alot and does not smoke at all.
I will try this out over the bank holiday weekend and let you know the results.
Many thanks to you all.
I very helpful and informative forum. I hope I cna have some input once I become more familar with the car.
Alastair
Glowplugs are redundant one the engine is firing - so you probably have an air leak in the fuel system. If you have a Bosch pump look at the leakoff pipes (small rubber pipes running between the injectors) and the associated network as it all may need replacing (including the end cap). If you have a Roto-Diesel (flat topped with no 'flying saucer device on top) it WILL NOT be the problem - as the pump is different internally and these just leak and smell when the leakoff pipes fail.
Otherwise a general check over of all pipe connections, the priming bulb and the filter may find the problem.
Glowplugs can be checked by simply checking for continuity - remove the nut on top and the cable and measure the resistance between the terminal and the engine block - or use a bulb or similar. There should be virtually no resistance - ie 1 ohm or so. Generally when they fail they go open circuit so a precise measurement is not required.
Why not get the hole welded. Many specialist MOT welders are good and cheap - especially as this is a relatively simple repair. (Not a complicated or awkward joint or corner to work on.)
Otherwise a general check over of all pipe connections, the priming bulb and the filter may find the problem.
Glowplugs can be checked by simply checking for continuity - remove the nut on top and the cable and measure the resistance between the terminal and the engine block - or use a bulb or similar. There should be virtually no resistance - ie 1 ohm or so. Generally when they fail they go open circuit so a precise measurement is not required.
Why not get the hole welded. Many specialist MOT welders are good and cheap - especially as this is a relatively simple repair. (Not a complicated or awkward joint or corner to work on.)
jeremy
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aimcarthur
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- Joined: 20 Aug 2007, 07:06
- Location:
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aimcarthur
- Posts: 18
- Joined: 20 Aug 2007, 07:06
- Location:
- My Cars:
Found this elsewhere on the forum:
[quote="citrojim"]Poor, cheap glowplugs I'd say
It really pays to buy good 'uns and you can't go far wrong with a set of BERU ones from GSF. They're not nuch dearer really. And for the hassle of fitting them it pasys to get good ones so you are not doing the job too often!
To test the system, place a voltmeter from one glowplug to earth. Switch on and observe you have at least 11V showing for all the time your glowplug lamp is on. This should carry on for a bit after the light goes out if you have post-heating. You should hear a loud click as the pre-heat realy drops out. The plugs should glow for around 20s although this seems a little dependant on the ambient temperature.
Anything less than 11V points to a high resistance somewhere causing an excessive voltage drop. Check connections from battery right
[quote="citrojim"]Poor, cheap glowplugs I'd say
It really pays to buy good 'uns and you can't go far wrong with a set of BERU ones from GSF. They're not nuch dearer really. And for the hassle of fitting them it pasys to get good ones so you are not doing the job too often!To test the system, place a voltmeter from one glowplug to earth. Switch on and observe you have at least 11V showing for all the time your glowplug lamp is on. This should carry on for a bit after the light goes out if you have post-heating. You should hear a loud click as the pre-heat realy drops out. The plugs should glow for around 20s although this seems a little dependant on the ambient temperature.
Anything less than 11V points to a high resistance somewhere causing an excessive voltage drop. Check connections from battery right
It does sound like glowplugs to me. It's true to say that they are redundant once the engine is firing but one cylinder isn't firing for a few seconds. In my experience an engine will start OK with one plug down but when a second one goes down it's very difficult to start.
Richard
No French cars of my own at present.
Care of a 1994 205 D.
No French cars of my own at present.
Care of a 1994 205 D.
The plugs do stay on for a short while (45 secs??) after the engine starts. This is to reduce emissions. Earlier engines (pre XUD) had manually operated plugs - no timer - and generally the key was held in the heat position for 20 seconds while the plugs heated then turned to start. They would fire up on all cylinders if everything was in order.
I agree that an XUD will fire up readily with 1 plug down. The tendancy is for all to fail quite quickly in sequence - so if one is down it should not be ignored. Beru seem to be good and reliable - cheap ones will not last.
I agree that an XUD will fire up readily with 1 plug down. The tendancy is for all to fail quite quickly in sequence - so if one is down it should not be ignored. Beru seem to be good and reliable - cheap ones will not last.
jeremy