My 2.1 is dead

xf8u · Post by **xf8u** » 04 Jul 2007, 14:57

In addition to the fault code problems I have got, it would appear that there is an immobiliser issue too.
I go through the usual procedure: turn on ignition, type in code, light goes from red to green and then start. Trouble is there isn't even a click from the starter.

It seems I have two problems at the same time - how frustrating.

Where is the immobiliser located and can it be bypassed in any way.

I live in Manchester and would be really gratefull if there are any forum members in the North West who are competent enough to sort this out for me because I've just about had enough of it now.

Re Xantia fault code thread

Thanks in advance
Mike

My number is 07882 800162 please call if serious

Post by **RichardW** » 04 Jul 2007, 15:35

Mike,

Immobiliser has nothing to do with the starter - if it doesn't disengage, then it will crank and beep without starting. If it won't crank then something else is amiss. Have you tried a new battery on it?

xf8u · Post by **xf8u** » 04 Jul 2007, 15:53

As far as I know the battery is fine. The starting issue is intermittent. Yesterday is cranked over (but would not fire up) today it doesn't even click.
My head's hurting thinking what it could be.

andmcit · Post by **andmcit** » 04 Jul 2007, 16:10

You know it could just be a dud starter motor! Have you tried a tap with a
socket set extension bar or hammer handle or similar on the shoulder
where the main motor winding body meets the shoulder/collar by it's mounting?

Andrew

deian · Post by **deian** » 04 Jul 2007, 16:30

I had a car once with exactly the same problem... turns out it was the connections to/from the battery/starter motor... they really need to be quite tight on, and clean, the starter takes a lot current so anything could give it an excuse not to turn over...

My money is on a loose/corroded cable in the battery/starter circuit. Have you been down there with WD40 and spanner tightening all the heavy electrical connections?

You'd be surprised how crucial the heavy cables in this circuit is to the health of the starter motor, some starter motors need a healthy current to turn over... i.e if it needs 20 +/- 2amps to crank over, and you have 17 then thats your problem, same goes with voltage, the bare minimum is 11volts... remember the tired cables/loose connections can loose you valuable voltage or current.

As for the immobiliser problem, if it turns green then it should crank over, but some cars won't even crank over if the wrong number is input into the immobiliser, but in this case with the green light on it should crank, so i reckon we can eliminate the immobiliser.

If your handy with a multimeter, set it to continuity test and check for any breaks in the cables, if there is something or nothing, tap the connections, move the cables and check for continuity again, intermittent behaviour is usually due to the feed to a device.

If you get it to work and it sounds normal and healthy then you can probably rule out a dodgy starter motor.

Thats not to say it could well be the starter motor, maybe the solenoid is stuck too.... the test for this is....

with the car off, no keys, stick it in gear 1st or Reverse, and just roll the car enough for the engine to move in gear, this might disengage the solenoid and allow the starter to turn free, try starting AFTER rolling, not during of course.

So start with the rolling in gear test, and failing that, check all the connections. Let us know how you get on.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 04 Jul 2007, 19:10

before you go pocking around the main starter terminals with a sppaner disconect the negative terminal at the battery, other wise you will short some thing out, the other conection to check is were the neg- gose to the gear box, these cars do cranck when the light is red, all the imoberliser diconects is the fuel shut off valve, if you can get to it you can bypass it with a switched live feed
regards malcolm

Post by **philhoward** » 04 Jul 2007, 20:57

Could it be something like the infamous ignition switch? Intermittant contact to the ignition live would confuse the hell out of the ECU, and possibly cause the non-operational starter..

If the lights don't dim when you try the starter, then it's not even trying (hence no click either)..