I have a weird problem with BX 16 Petrol. It runs normally fine, but when the temperature drops, this is a guess only, it does not start. The starter engine does it job, but it does not spring on. A tow of only a few meters is enough to start it. Normally you would expect that towing it is needed when your battery has been started flat. It almost seems that the MTU (The Computer Black box that arranges the timing of the sparks) does not work properly. After it has been towed it puffes some smoke for a while, but after 5 minutes you would be able to switch it off and start it again. Can anybody tell me what is going on, might it be temperature related, or might there be some problem with the sensors indicating the timing for the ignition. I notice underway some temporarily failure of the ignition, but it did never stop the car. In between all this the engine runs very smoothly, so I very much puzzled based on the current knowledge that I have of car-engines.
Pierre Verbakel
The Netherlands
BX 16 Not starting when colder
Moderator: RichardW
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pierre_verbakel
- Posts: 19
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- Location: Netherlands
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Pierre,
You say it's a 16 but what model? Has it a carb or is it fuel injected and if carb, does it have an automatic choke?
Also does the car use much or any oil and how fast does the starter motor spin the engine? Will the car start if you keep winding on the starter motor or will it wind to a stop & if so, how long does it take for this to happen?
What colour smoke is coming from the exhaust when it starts?
Shouldn't be hard to diagnose but we may need those few extra bits of info to simplify the process.
Alan S
You say it's a 16 but what model? Has it a carb or is it fuel injected and if carb, does it have an automatic choke?
Also does the car use much or any oil and how fast does the starter motor spin the engine? Will the car start if you keep winding on the starter motor or will it wind to a stop & if so, how long does it take for this to happen?
What colour smoke is coming from the exhaust when it starts?
Shouldn't be hard to diagnose but we may need those few extra bits of info to simplify the process.
Alan S
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pierre_verbakel
- Posts: 19
- Joined: 29 Sep 2002, 03:19
- Location: Netherlands
- My Cars:
Hello alans,
To supply additional data the following:
It is a injection engine. Everything is controlled by a box, which has various sensors as input (+/- 7).
The starter motor keeps on running at the same pace, not to fast, but not slow either. The same as it does when it does when it normally starts. Before it would start after like 15 minutes (?, anyway a long time) starting. It would first almost stall (to much pre-ignition), but now no chances of that.
The oil-consumption is very high, cannot say exactly how much, 1 liter to the 1000 km or even worse. The fume color is white, it might be a bit blue but this is very difficult to see.
I hope this would allow you to tell me more.
To supply additional data the following:
It is a injection engine. Everything is controlled by a box, which has various sensors as input (+/- 7).
The starter motor keeps on running at the same pace, not to fast, but not slow either. The same as it does when it does when it normally starts. Before it would start after like 15 minutes (?, anyway a long time) starting. It would first almost stall (to much pre-ignition), but now no chances of that.
The oil-consumption is very high, cannot say exactly how much, 1 liter to the 1000 km or even worse. The fume color is white, it might be a bit blue but this is very difficult to see.
I hope this would allow you to tell me more.
Pierre,
I'm no expert in the finer points of EFi engines; I have a son who is at the other end of the specton to me so I don't need to study their complexities, however I would be inclined for starters to have the injectors cleaned & new seals fitted. I did this on my BX 16V after I heard of a number catching fire due to the failure of the seals. It made a big difference to both the starting and running of my car.
Allowing for the problem being more in cold weather, it may be worth looking at investing in a set of spark plugs with a slightly hotter rating...just one stage hotter I'd suggest, which may have to be changed back to original specs come summer if the engine appears to be running too hot then. The reason I suggest this is that with the car burning oil to the extent it is, I suspect the engine may be down fractionally on compression, also the fuel mixture would be getting somewhat diluted with oil which if it is leaking past the valve stem seals as well as past the rings, could be forming a mix that needs an awful lot of spark to initially ignite it. In other words, the car being towed is not drawing any power via the starter motor and therefore firing more efficiently on tow than on the starter. The hotter plugs help to compensate to a degree for this.
As regards the colour of smoke, it usually works this way;
Blue is oil smoke....wear in the engine somewhere.
Black is car running too rich....problem in the fuel or breathing system
White:....water.....often due to to weaping head gasket, however, white smoke is very common as exhaust gases condense on cold days so can be deceptive. A bit of common sense needs to be used n this diagnosis; constant white smoke is almost a certain sign of a blown head gasket allowing water into the cylinder & is often accompanied by water contamination of the oil.
Hope that is some help to you,
Alan S
I'm no expert in the finer points of EFi engines; I have a son who is at the other end of the specton to me so I don't need to study their complexities, however I would be inclined for starters to have the injectors cleaned & new seals fitted. I did this on my BX 16V after I heard of a number catching fire due to the failure of the seals. It made a big difference to both the starting and running of my car.
Allowing for the problem being more in cold weather, it may be worth looking at investing in a set of spark plugs with a slightly hotter rating...just one stage hotter I'd suggest, which may have to be changed back to original specs come summer if the engine appears to be running too hot then. The reason I suggest this is that with the car burning oil to the extent it is, I suspect the engine may be down fractionally on compression, also the fuel mixture would be getting somewhat diluted with oil which if it is leaking past the valve stem seals as well as past the rings, could be forming a mix that needs an awful lot of spark to initially ignite it. In other words, the car being towed is not drawing any power via the starter motor and therefore firing more efficiently on tow than on the starter. The hotter plugs help to compensate to a degree for this.
As regards the colour of smoke, it usually works this way;
Blue is oil smoke....wear in the engine somewhere.
Black is car running too rich....problem in the fuel or breathing system
White:....water.....often due to to weaping head gasket, however, white smoke is very common as exhaust gases condense on cold days so can be deceptive. A bit of common sense needs to be used n this diagnosis; constant white smoke is almost a certain sign of a blown head gasket allowing water into the cylinder & is often accompanied by water contamination of the oil.
Hope that is some help to you,
Alan S
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pierre_verbakel
- Posts: 19
- Joined: 29 Sep 2002, 03:19
- Location: Netherlands
- My Cars:
Hello Allans,
Thanks for your extensive reply.
I guess that changing a plug would be a good option to try. But how do I get a type of plug that fits and is a few steps hotter than the current, probably recommended, ones? Where can I find a chart that would allow me to select one?
Regards,
Pierre Verbakel
The Netherlands
Thanks for your extensive reply.
I guess that changing a plug would be a good option to try. But how do I get a type of plug that fits and is a few steps hotter than the current, probably recommended, ones? Where can I find a chart that would allow me to select one?
Regards,
Pierre Verbakel
The Netherlands
Peirre,
Normally, any spark plug stockist will have a chart showing various heat ranges of their plugs.
It is something you will have to start off by taking one of your plugs out, getting its number & going from there.
Just a little tip for you though; check the type part number of the plug you have in there at present just in case someone has changed them for a non standard one. A long shot I know, but not all that uncommon a thing to happen.
Let us know how this works out if you would; these kinds of challenges I always find interesting.
Alan S
Normally, any spark plug stockist will have a chart showing various heat ranges of their plugs.
It is something you will have to start off by taking one of your plugs out, getting its number & going from there.
Just a little tip for you though; check the type part number of the plug you have in there at present just in case someone has changed them for a non standard one. A long shot I know, but not all that uncommon a thing to happen.
Let us know how this works out if you would; these kinds of challenges I always find interesting.
Alan S