Lubricating Front Struts?

[Mandrake]

The BP LP-ES 2 grease is a fairly common grease available almost anywhere in the world. Because its mentioned as the recommanded all-purpose grease in all tractor manuals.
Any farmer would have a couple of tubes messing around

I didn't know that

Years ago we used to use L2 but it doesn't seem to be available anymore. It was quite similar to LP-ES but noticeably different.

I use the black counterpart with MoOs2 ('moly') additives which are especially suited for ball bearings and high temp applications.

Which do you think would work best on a sliding bearing like struts ? (Allowing for the fact that the grease will "contaminate" the LHM system)

Which would be better suited to balljoints ? (Eg my droplinks I'm going to fit soon) And which for rear suspension arm bearings ? (Which I'm also doing soon)

What is the type number of the one with moly additives ?

Regards,
Simon

[Clogzz]

The black grease is Energrease LC2-M with molybdenum disulphide.
We’ve used it in our old bombs as a does-it-all grease in ball joints, wheel bearings and steering boxes.
It’s got a good, soft sloshy feel and doesn’t melt.

http://www.bp.com/sectiongenericarticle ... 38#7087000

Quote: Energrease LC2-M contains molybdenum disulphide and has an extremely high drop point (the temperature at which the grease structure melts or breaks down) over 220°C.
Therefore, Energrease LC2-M is suitable for use in plain or rolling bearings operating at temperatures up to 150°C (continuous rating).
Applications include wheel bearings, chassis and marine situations where water washout is a problem.

[jeremy]

You have to remember that the manufacturers specs are written for people who buy the stuff by the lorry load, not 1 tin every 5 years. The significance is cost - if moly grease costs 1/3 more it makes no difference when you buy 1 can every 5 years - but over a lorry load - yes it does matter.

If you're running a fleet of lorries or something you'll make sure that the cheapest grease is used for each job - you can afford 1 tin of good grease for everything - after all it won't do any harm if its overspec.

[Mandrake]

The black grease is Energrease LC2-M with molybdenum disulphide.
We’ve used it in our old bombs as a does-it-all grease in ball joints, wheel bearings and steering boxes.
It’s got a good, soft sloshy feel and doesn’t melt.

Looks like it would be a better choice for rear suspension arm bearings then ? I'll have to get some...

I'm not sure its a good idea to use it on front struts though - as any grease you add there works down into the strut and finds its way in to the LHM recirculation system, and molybdenum disulphide may count as an undesirable contaminant there. Just about anywhere else on the suspension it would be ok.

Regards,
Simon

[AndersDK]

Simon -

The grease will never get into the strut LHM internals. If that was the case, then LHM would have leaked out in the first place, because of the internal system pressure.

Many years ago I was pretty anxious about what grease to use when dismantling and overhauling hydraulic components. I started out using the clear silicone grease to ensure it would not bother the system. Later I've learnt that it does not really matter. The important thing is to lube with a thin film of grease, to prevent corrosion while stocked.
When cleaned & degreased in petrol, the dry piston and valve bits surfaces corrodes almost immediately. Bearing grease is about the perfect thing to use, and wont harm the system in any way.
It does not clogg up filters and dont eat any rubber or seals.
But it lubes well -