xantia brake pads

fangy · Post by **fangy** » 02 Jun 2007, 13:30

Hello,
I'm going to change the front and back brake pads on my Xantia tomorrow, is there any problems I can expect or is the brakes on these cars as straight forward as most Fords and Vauxhalls? Also can anyone tell me if a car needs the back plate covering the back disc for it's m o t?
Thanks,
Fangy.

Post by **CitroJim** » 02 Jun 2007, 13:38

More or less straightforward

Remember you need to wind the pistons back on the fronts and not try retracting the pistons using a G cramp! Use a square bar in the slots provided in the piston to turn them back. When inserting the new pads, one slot needs to align with the pip on the rear of the pad.

On the rears, you may find the little through-bolt is tight and it may shear off on you. Put a bit of Plus Gas on it and before trying to undo the nut. The pistons retract in the conventional way. The fronts are different because the handbrake works on the front calipers.

Whilst you are doing the rears, it is a very good idea to have the calipers off and clean any corrosion on their mating surfaces with the rear trailing arms. There have been loads of past posts on doing this job, most recently by Xac.

Bleed the brakes afterward.

I'm not sure if the disc shield is needed for an MOT. It'll be an advisory I would think.

Xaccers · Post by **Xaccers** » 02 Jun 2007, 13:39

Front brake piston needs to be rotated clockwise to get it back up inside the caliper.
I find the old pads can be used to do this, and you have to rotate it loads!
The rear calipers just push back inside.
Have a look over the top of the rear calipers to see if they are inline with the discs, as corrosion can build up behind the caliper making them sit at an angle.

Beaten to it by Jim!

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 02 Jun 2007, 14:01

MOT testers handbook here:

http://www.motuk.co.uk/welcome.htm

fangy · Post by **fangy** » 02 Jun 2007, 20:13

Thanks for the help folks, I started on the front today, but can't get the pin out to open the caliper up, I tried to drive it out with a hammer and an old 'chappin screwdriver' after a soaking in wd 40, but it won't budge. Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks,
Fangy.

Post by **CitroJim** » 02 Jun 2007, 20:21

Yes, these can be tough Fangy.

Give me a good thump here if I'm stating the 'bleedin obvious but you have removed the "R" clip from the pin haven't you? (runs away and hides...)

I find you need to use a flat-faced drift exactly the same diamater as the pin and whack it with deliberation using a BIG hammer with care.

If you use anything else and give it a load of whacks with a small hammer you just end up splaying the head of the pin, making it even harder to remove.

In this case, I'd carefully drill into the end of the pin to remove this part and the drift it out what is left.

A little carefully applied heat may not be a bad idea but you'll need a very small, intense flame and aim very carefully.

I personally find WD-40 is not the best for these sort of jobs. Plus Gas is the stuff even though it costs an arm and a leg.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 02 Jun 2007, 22:02

diesel fuel is a very good releasing fluid
regards malcolm

Post by **CitroJim** » 02 Jun 2007, 22:25

citronut wrote:diesel fuel is a very good releasing fluid
regards malcolm

You know, I never ever thought of using diesel as a releasing fluid until you mentioned it Malcolm!

Going by the smell, would I be correct then, in saying Plus Gas is diesel based?

fangy · Post by **fangy** » 02 Jun 2007, 23:58

I think I'll buy a suitable drift before trying it again, I wasn't sure how much abuse it would take so I was using a normal hammer. I noticed the end of the pin starting to splay, that's when I gave up. Your right about the WD 40, It wasn't helping atoll but I'll give the diesel a try.
Thanks for the help,
Fangy.