idiots guide to sphere change
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- windysurferuk
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idiots guide to sphere change
Hi
I need to change the spheres on my Xantia 2.1 SX
I have done the center sphere on the front but now need to change the other
5 as the ride is getting abit bouncy.
I know there must be many other posts with details on this but I just can't seem to find them!
Any one fancy doing me an idiots guide to doing this job?
The front two look stright forward but the back one look a bit more tricky.
Is it ok to put the car on axel stands to change these or do I need to use ramps?
cheers
I need to change the spheres on my Xantia 2.1 SX
I have done the center sphere on the front but now need to change the other
5 as the ride is getting abit bouncy.
I know there must be many other posts with details on this but I just can't seem to find them!
Any one fancy doing me an idiots guide to doing this job?
The front two look stright forward but the back one look a bit more tricky.
Is it ok to put the car on axel stands to change these or do I need to use ramps?
cheers
Xantia 2.1TD SX 130000
You need a tool that will grip the spheres - back ones are generally very tight.
On a BX (and I think Xantias are the same) the rear strut is not securely anchored and will twist unless the sphere is cracked loose with the car under load. This means that it must be supported on ramps at full height while the spheres are cracked loose. As the car can potentially drop very fast you must allow sufficient room for yourself if you are to live long enough to complete the job. (Not joking - these cars can kill)
Procedure is to crack the sphere loose by about 1/8th turn, then release the pressure by setting the height corrector to low and allowing the car to drop - then change the sphere and do the same again for the other side.
Then before you drive it, do citroebics - raise and lower it a few times to carry the air and gas out of the system. the reason for doing it before you drive is to try and prevent air getting into the limbs leading to the brakes.
You will probably need to run the engine to get enough pressure to lock the strut while you crack the sphere loose but the accumulator may do if the car is raised first before the engine is turned off. You will need to start it again to get the anti sink valve to open and allow the car to drop.
On a BX (and I think Xantias are the same) the rear strut is not securely anchored and will twist unless the sphere is cracked loose with the car under load. This means that it must be supported on ramps at full height while the spheres are cracked loose. As the car can potentially drop very fast you must allow sufficient room for yourself if you are to live long enough to complete the job. (Not joking - these cars can kill)
Procedure is to crack the sphere loose by about 1/8th turn, then release the pressure by setting the height corrector to low and allowing the car to drop - then change the sphere and do the same again for the other side.
Then before you drive it, do citroebics - raise and lower it a few times to carry the air and gas out of the system. the reason for doing it before you drive is to try and prevent air getting into the limbs leading to the brakes.
You will probably need to run the engine to get enough pressure to lock the strut while you crack the sphere loose but the accumulator may do if the car is raised first before the engine is turned off. You will need to start it again to get the anti sink valve to open and allow the car to drop.
jeremy
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I've done them using ramps. I tried all sorts of tools to shift the rears without any success. Then I got the tool from Plaidies (?) and it was so easy. Doing the anti sink sphere, make sure you loosen the union on the back before attempting to move the sphere. Not to do so will twist the pipe and break it. 9mm I think.
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The tip of cracking the spheres on full height is a good one. My mate has a garage and he said he'd rarely changed rear spheres without breaking a pipe. He was quite amazed that I drove away less than an hour later with six new spheres and all my pipes intact.
The anti-sink sphere is slightly different. You have to release the pipe that goes into the centre of it before unscrewing the sphere. It's similar to a conventional brake pipe union. If you try and unscrew the sphere first you will break the pipe.
The anti-sink sphere is slightly different. You have to release the pipe that goes into the centre of it before unscrewing the sphere. It's similar to a conventional brake pipe union. If you try and unscrew the sphere first you will break the pipe.
Richard
No French cars of my own at present.
Care of a 1994 205 D.
No French cars of my own at present.
Care of a 1994 205 D.
Hi,
When I replace my spheres, (On both a Bx and Xantia), I put the car on ramps at the rear, raise the car to full height and then using a cold chisel and lump hammer, I 'tap' away at the shere. The weight of the lump hammer is transferred to the sphere. It normally takes a couple of minutes to get movement, then I drop the car, release the pressure and remove the sphere. Replacement is easy but rub some LHM onto the seals before you put the new ones on.
Another tip is to spray some WD40 onto the joints of the sphere and the strut, this will help.
Paul
When I replace my spheres, (On both a Bx and Xantia), I put the car on ramps at the rear, raise the car to full height and then using a cold chisel and lump hammer, I 'tap' away at the shere. The weight of the lump hammer is transferred to the sphere. It normally takes a couple of minutes to get movement, then I drop the car, release the pressure and remove the sphere. Replacement is easy but rub some LHM onto the seals before you put the new ones on.
Another tip is to spray some WD40 onto the joints of the sphere and the strut, this will help.
Paul
1xAmi,3xGS,2xBx,2xAX,2xSaxo,1xXantia mk I,2xXantia MkII,1xC1,2xC2,
To change the front spheres.
1/ Lower the car, onto axle stands if you want to.
2/ Using a band wrench or similar, undo spheres. (into a plastic bag will keep the mess under control)
3/ Remove old "O" rings, if they dont fall out.
4/ Fit the new "O" rings.
5/ Fit the new spheres hand tight.
6/ Start the car and lift off the axle stands.
Rear spheres.
1/ Put the car into high position.
2/ Place axle stands under the rear.
3/ Using a band wrench or similar, undo the spheres approx 20 degrees anti clockwise.
4/ depressurise the car into low.
5/ Remove the spheres.
6/ Remove the old "O"rings
7/ Fit new "O" rings.
8/ Fit the new spheres hand tight.
9/ Start the car and lift off the axle stands.
Main Accumulator.
1/ Lift the car into high, (for better acces)
2/ Put some axle stands under the front.
3/ Undo the bleed on the regulator, 12mm spanner ONLY BY 2 X TURNS MAX.
4/ Using a band wrench or similar undo the sphere.
5/ Remove the ols "O" ring.
6/ Fit new "O" ring.
7/ Fit the new sphere hand tight.
8/ Start the car and run for approx 2 mins
9/ Tighten the bleed screw and remove the axle stands.
Anti Sink sphere.
1/ Place car in high.
2/ Put axle stands under the rear.
3/ With the engine running, put the height lever into low.
4/ Undo the pressure regulator bleed by 2 x turns.
5/ Using a 9mm spanner, undo the pipe from the rear of the sphere.
6/ Using a band wrench or similar, undo the sphere.
7/ Fit the new sphere.
8/ Refit the pipe into the rear, dont forget the pipe seal.
9/ Start the car and do up the bleed screw.
10/ Lift off the axle stands.
Bleeding the system.
The hydraulic system does not need any bleeding, to send any air ingress back to the reservoir, lift the car up and down a few times.
Lift into high then check the LHM level, top up if needed.
Note.
Please dont use a hammer and chisel on the spheres, the sphere is a pressure vessel, containing as much as 1000 PSI, (70 bar) I know that you are changing them because they have lost most of the pressure but are you sure enough to be beating them with a chisel?? It's bodgy and bad practice.
I dont think that I have forgotten anything, but I am sure that someone will point it out if I have
Regards
Slim.
1/ Lower the car, onto axle stands if you want to.
2/ Using a band wrench or similar, undo spheres. (into a plastic bag will keep the mess under control)
3/ Remove old "O" rings, if they dont fall out.
4/ Fit the new "O" rings.
5/ Fit the new spheres hand tight.
6/ Start the car and lift off the axle stands.
Rear spheres.
1/ Put the car into high position.
2/ Place axle stands under the rear.
3/ Using a band wrench or similar, undo the spheres approx 20 degrees anti clockwise.
4/ depressurise the car into low.
5/ Remove the spheres.
6/ Remove the old "O"rings
7/ Fit new "O" rings.
8/ Fit the new spheres hand tight.
9/ Start the car and lift off the axle stands.
Main Accumulator.
1/ Lift the car into high, (for better acces)
2/ Put some axle stands under the front.
3/ Undo the bleed on the regulator, 12mm spanner ONLY BY 2 X TURNS MAX.
4/ Using a band wrench or similar undo the sphere.
5/ Remove the ols "O" ring.
6/ Fit new "O" ring.
7/ Fit the new sphere hand tight.
8/ Start the car and run for approx 2 mins
9/ Tighten the bleed screw and remove the axle stands.
Anti Sink sphere.
1/ Place car in high.
2/ Put axle stands under the rear.
3/ With the engine running, put the height lever into low.
4/ Undo the pressure regulator bleed by 2 x turns.
5/ Using a 9mm spanner, undo the pipe from the rear of the sphere.
6/ Using a band wrench or similar, undo the sphere.
7/ Fit the new sphere.
8/ Refit the pipe into the rear, dont forget the pipe seal.
9/ Start the car and do up the bleed screw.
10/ Lift off the axle stands.
Bleeding the system.
The hydraulic system does not need any bleeding, to send any air ingress back to the reservoir, lift the car up and down a few times.
Lift into high then check the LHM level, top up if needed.
Note.
Please dont use a hammer and chisel on the spheres, the sphere is a pressure vessel, containing as much as 1000 PSI, (70 bar) I know that you are changing them because they have lost most of the pressure but are you sure enough to be beating them with a chisel?? It's bodgy and bad practice.
I dont think that I have forgotten anything, but I am sure that someone will point it out if I have
Regards
Slim.
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Here's a link to how to make a handy DIY sphere removal tool
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=21850
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=21850
1.9TD+ SX Xantia Estate (Cassy) running on 100% veg
1.9TD SX Xantia Hatchback (Jenny) running on 100% veg for sale
Laguna II 2.0dCi Privilege (Monty)
DIY sphere tool
1.9TD SX Xantia Hatchback (Jenny) running on 100% veg for sale
Laguna II 2.0dCi Privilege (Monty)
DIY sphere tool
- CitroJim
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Excellent guide Slim
I have to strongly agree about not attacking spheres with a hammer and chisel. Not only do you risk rupturing a sphere but the risk of damaging other components in the vicinity is very high.
Xac's tool works a treat on all but Activa Rear Hydractive and Balancing spheres (only due to their difficult location). For these only the Pelaidies (sp?) tool cuts the mustard.
I have to strongly agree about not attacking spheres with a hammer and chisel. Not only do you risk rupturing a sphere but the risk of damaging other components in the vicinity is very high.
Xac's tool works a treat on all but Activa Rear Hydractive and Balancing spheres (only due to their difficult location). For these only the Pelaidies (sp?) tool cuts the mustard.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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OnlineMandrake
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Can't seem to find the sphere removal tool on their website ??
Regards,
Simon
Simon
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Try this one:-
http://www.pleiades.uk.com/products_2.html
http://www.pleiades.uk.com/products_2.html
2010 C5 X7 VTR+Nav 160
1998 1.5 Saxo
1998 Pug 306 1.9D
2018 C4 B7 VTR+
2011 Citroen C1
1998 1.5 Saxo
1998 Pug 306 1.9D
2018 C4 B7 VTR+
2011 Citroen C1
Hi Guys,
I do not remember me saying attack the spheres at all OR give them a beating, when I said use a lump hammer and chisel!!!
I said tap and the weight of the hammer is transfered........ didn't I?I must have done at least 10 cars using this method until getting my hands on a sphere remval tool...
I do not remember me saying attack the spheres at all OR give them a beating, when I said use a lump hammer and chisel!!!
I said tap and the weight of the hammer is transfered........ didn't I?I must have done at least 10 cars using this method until getting my hands on a sphere remval tool...
1xAmi,3xGS,2xBx,2xAX,2xSaxo,1xXantia mk I,2xXantia MkII,1xC1,2xC2,
- windysurferuk
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Sorry Paulwrinklet1 wrote:Hi Guys,
I do not remember me saying attack the spheres at all OR give them a beating, when I said use a lump hammer and chisel!!!
I said tap and the weight of the hammer is transfered........ didn't I?I must have done at least 10 cars using this method until getting my hands on a sphere remval tool...
You did! I stand corrected.. What you do is absolutely fine (subtle use of large hammer) but with phrases like "cracking the spheres off", "lump hammer" and "cold chisel" being mentioned in this thread, it may give the wrong idea to some with less experience of the job "The forum told me I had to crack 'em off with a lump hammer and cold chisel" Taken literally, not good
As a last thought on on this topic, I always bleed the rear brakes after a sphere change and following a good bout of citarobics. Just me but I always seem to get a bit of air out.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...