I have changed wishbones twice on ZX now, each time for genuine Cit parts. Both times the tracking has been a mile out afterwards.
Is this always the case or have I just been very unlucky?
ZX Wishbones Striaght question
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When ever you do any work on the steering or suspension on the front end of your car, even just stripping down parts and refitting, you should always have the wheel alignment (tracking) checked.
The castor and camber angles will not change as these are non-adjustable and are set in the design of the components. They do in fact change with wheel alignment, but also with weight loading, spring rate, ride height......... Not something you or I need to get involved with.
The bushes in the wishbone and the location of the lower ball joint can throw the tracking miles out. Always worth checking as it can save expensive tyre wear and resolve problems with the steering inclination (over or under steer).
Handyman
The castor and camber angles will not change as these are non-adjustable and are set in the design of the components. They do in fact change with wheel alignment, but also with weight loading, spring rate, ride height......... Not something you or I need to get involved with.
The bushes in the wishbone and the location of the lower ball joint can throw the tracking miles out. Always worth checking as it can save expensive tyre wear and resolve problems with the steering inclination (over or under steer).
Handyman
When I had both wishbones replaced on my Grey ZX last year, due to cracks appearing at the bearings, the tracking was unchanged. Again, when I had those same (new) wishbones transfered onto my "new" ZX recently the tracking did not change..
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James. (Nr M67 East of Manchester).
Dark Blue ZX 1.9D Auto 1994 'L' 5 dr (modified) Aura. 98K miles used daily. Ave mpg 40
Wedgewood Blue 75 CTD auto Connoissaur. 2002. 144k. used daily. ave mpg 40 ish.
Dark Blue ZX 1.9D Auto 1994 'L' 5 dr (modified) Aura. 98K miles used daily. Ave mpg 40
Wedgewood Blue 75 CTD auto Connoissaur. 2002. 144k. used daily. ave mpg 40 ish.
citronut wrote:you dont normaly need to get tracking cheked after replacing suspension arms,what might have happened here is whilst the car has had knackerd arm bushes/lower swivel,someone has had the tracking adjusted,so now you have fitted new arm/s the tracking is out
regards malcolm
That's a good point. I have had the car a long time and therefore it was I who had it adjusted when the last set were fitted. But there was time a couple of years later when I had a new part fitted and had it re tracked. That may be the problem. Whilst the bushes were not worn out at the time, the tracking will have been set up to suit.
Maybe I have just been unlucky and your answer seems the most logical right now. Then again, I know it is common that parts differ depending on suppliers etc. so even a slight difference could result in the problem and that would fall in line with what Handyman said.
My friend has just replaced some on a focus and his steering wheel is now well off, apparenlty with a triangel to keep it in place rather then a spline to move it a notch or two!
Centralising the steering prior to tracking is something professionals just don't seem to understand.
Clearly the geometry should be symmetrical - so start with getting the rack itself central - ideally by measuring the movement on one side of the rack, then setting it at half that position. Then adjust the wheels to the correct angle without moving the rack. Now remove the wheel and fix it straight.
A rough check for centralisation is to drive the car forward and get the wheel straight. Now mark the top with tape and note the turns from centre to full lock. Do the same for the other side - and if the wheel is turned each way by the same amount - the rack is centred.
Clearly the geometry should be symmetrical - so start with getting the rack itself central - ideally by measuring the movement on one side of the rack, then setting it at half that position. Then adjust the wheels to the correct angle without moving the rack. Now remove the wheel and fix it straight.
A rough check for centralisation is to drive the car forward and get the wheel straight. Now mark the top with tape and note the turns from centre to full lock. Do the same for the other side - and if the wheel is turned each way by the same amount - the rack is centred.
jeremy