Just a Question- rear suspension cylinder

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Ross
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Just a Question- rear suspension cylinder

Post by Ross »

Managed to renew the rear arm beriang (offside - nearside today)
Thanks for all the advice - just goes to prove what a good forum this is.
However can anyone advise what the front (on car ) clipp do - does it hold the cylinder arm in ? does it hold the rubber gaiter in place ?
One other thing I just couldnt shift the ABS sensor and so "lost" it at no small cost during removal
Is there a recognised method to get the sensors out of the wheel mounting ?

for interest - you should have seen the pile ob bits which fell out of the arm - the bearing was totally shot.

Thanks
again to all who helped with advise

Ross (94 1.9 TD VSX)
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Post by Peter.N. »

Cant visualise the clip you mean, but the ABS sensors almost always self destruct if you try to remove them, the best thing to do is disconnect the lead from the junction with the loom (if you can find it) or even cut the lead, if you can remake a good watertight joint on reassembling, then remove the sensor with the backplate. A bit late now I know! :(
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Post by jeremy »

The correct procedure is to leave the sensor in the arm and disconnect its wiring at the next available junction. I managed to get a broken one out of my BX intact - which I did to see if I could do I should I need to at some time. Just a case of some very boring wiggling, oil and grease.
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

Grats wih your patience Ross - it pays.

From my memory there is only 1 clip on the rear cylinder to be mentioned. Thats the dual steelwire type to hold the gaiter tight on to the cylinder.

My guess is you are worried on a loose fit rear cylinder & sphere assembly ?
Thats completely normal (including your worries :P ) as it is the weight of the car (by the wheels) that keeps the cylinder correctly located - once it counterpressurises to raise the car. You are defo not the first owner to worry about this unusual 'fixing' of the carrying suspension element ...

And yes - when the bearing breaks up - there are lots of rollers, bits from the bearing cage and disintegrated inner bearing race. Quite a mess packed in rust :roll:

TIP : if you experience that the bearing bore in the arm has been grooved out and looks like a mess, then no worries. Its the bottom of the bore where the bearing race is located, that carries the weight. Not the first part of the bore where the seal is located. When all bits are correctly located you can perfectly fill any gap between the seal and a damaged bore with bathroom silicone. All it needs to do is to seal up against water ingress into the bearings.

Good luck an please report back after your testdrive :D
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
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Post by mpr1956 »

Hi.. when you have the cylinder assembly back into place, the end protruding from the rubber gaiter has a tiny hole through it.. this locates into the "cup" on the suspension arm which has a corresponding hole. That R clip goes through the cup on the arm and holds the end of the suspension unit rod in place.. but as Anders says, I can't see it falling out given the immense force holding it in ! Best Wishes, Martin
I won't do that again
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Mandrake
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Post by Mandrake »

Right, that settles it!

When I do the rear arm bearings on mine soon I'll be unplugging the ABS sensor at the loom, not trying to remove it! :)

Luckily I know where the plugs are, although they are a right b*****d to get to, but better that than breaking a hard to replace sensor.

Regards,
Simon
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Ross
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Post by Ross »

Having read all this and having had some success with the bearings it would seem the two worst aspects of the job are the ABS sensors and the freeing of everything that has either seized solid or which is hidden in dirt.
Given the amount of grief and expense breaking the sensor or trying to disconnect it at the loom is it a realistic option to fit a waterproof disconnectable "plug and socket" arrangement in the ABS sensor wiring to facilate easy disconnection at an easy to reach place. There is after all only two wires to connect.
It would seem if this was possible a regular inspection/service of the bearing maybe once a year would be a lot simpler, quicker, and cheaper and the time spent once a year would be well spent.


Just got to get the cylinder from the "Breakers" now - (this is the bit that didn't go quite so well - lol
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Post by citronut »

how did you remove the bearing outter races from the arm,i allways put two blobs of mig on opposite faces of the inner race,allowing me to drifft them out
regards malcolm
Ross
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Post by Ross »

In truth I followed the advice cleaned the arm up well and drifted them out with a large screwdriver and club hammer through the tube without to much problem - I would say however there wasnt much left to keep them in place so I reckon I was lucky
If I was really clever I wouldn't have twisted the thread on the cylinder - but you win some and lose some - lol
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