266 or 283 that is the question.

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f00lzz
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Post by f00lzz »

Blimey what a rip off... this must be one of the easier jobs to do on the Xantia. My Brembo discs and pads from GSF are brilliant and so cheap that there really is no excuse for having bad brakes.....
Ian
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TehAgent
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Post by TehAgent »

Sorted, got me discs and pads. now just need that brake person XAC :)

Do you drink beer, ill get you some cans for helping me. just one more thing, do you have a socket to fit the center retaining bolt.
Blimey what a rip off... this must be one of the easier jobs to do on the Xantia. My Brembo discs and pads from GSF are brilliant and so cheap that there really is no excuse for having bad brakes.....
It would have been cheap, if i didn't have a number of other things all go wrong at the same time.

Anyway, just popped down to GSF and according to the friendly bloke at the counter. the disks are £25 each, with out VAT. and the pads are £18

At £60 for the disks. (including VAT) and then 18 quid on top. makes it only slightly cheaper than what i have.

My disks came from citroen and cost me £65 (including VAT) and pads £16

So i would of only of saved £3
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Post by Xaccers »

I'm a serious lightweight so I'll be happy with coke or pepsi max :)
GF's going to whip up a batch of brownies too (Citrojim can tell you what they're like).

When you say center retaining bolt, what are you refering to?
Not the nut in the center of the disc when its on the car?
All the xantias I've worked on have the discs retained by two small countersunk screws when the wheel is off , originally torx but these often seize up so have to have their heads drilled off and be replaced.
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Post by TehAgent »

Email sent, still cant send a PM for some strange reason?

Well, hope its a good day like it is today. aah yeah i see what you mean by that center nut, doesn't need removing after all. i got torx screws in place, but they don't look to bad. so they might come undone. Disks are relatively newish, but the pad has worn down into it. so needs replacing :(

Brownies..... ooh.

Ill get the Cokes and Pepsi's in then :)
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Post by Xaccers »

I'll bring my drill just incase we need to perform some surgery on those torx :)
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Post by TehAgent »

Xac, did you get my email?

Also managed to do one brake today, will wait for Monday for you to do the other one, had loads of problems with the piston (the bit that pushes on the back of the brake pads) it just wouldn't compress, even with the bleed nipple off :( got it eventually, but now the hand brake comes up way to far. though I'm putting this down, to the other side still needs tackling,
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philhoward

Post by philhoward »

I hope by "sorted it" you realised that the piston actually needs to be screwed back in (did you notice 4 slots in the piston?)...my nasty suspicion is that not, and you've broken the internal tang off which works with the handbrake - hence it going too high... :cry: :cry:

(I've never had to do a Xantia, but I expect them to be the same as BX ones....)
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Post by TehAgent »

if by tang, you mean that tiny bit of wedge shaped metal on the back of the piton, that's attached to the screw holding the spring in place, then id say no. as i had the rear assembly apart to get the piston back. then screwed it back in, and re-assembled it. i know i did it the long way round, but hay, its back together and works, apart from that hand brake problem i mentioned.

I think ill take working photos next time.

Also, do the brake pads have a clip or something that holds them onto the caliper, if there is, there wasn't one on my drivers side of the car. id really like to know, so i can replace them if needed.
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Post by Xaccers »

Yup got your email.

We'll have a look on monday and see if we can work out what's up with the handbrake.

Using two pairs of pliers bend the handbrake arm back and disengage the handbrake cable.
At the bottom of the font of the caliper is a bar with a hole in one end, there should be a split pin in this.
Take the pin out and using punch and hammer tap the bar out.
Then you flip the caliper up and wiggle out the old pads.
Using the torx bit I have, unbolt the caliper from the wheel and swing it out the way.
Then unscrew (or drill off) the torx screws that hold the disc onto the wheel and swap it for the new one.
Bolt the caliper back onto the wheel.
Using something suitable (like the old brake pads) screw the piston back into the caliper (turn it clockwise and it takes ages).
Slip the new pads into the caliper, remembering to connect the new sensor leads.
Flip the caliper back down into place and re-insert the bar and split pin.
Done.

That's what should be done (if I've not missed any bits).
Worst case scenario, caliper is borked and a replacement will be needed from a scrappy.
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Post by TehAgent »

hmm... not how i went about it lol.

Took wheel off and undo the brake cable from the caliper, undone the caliper from the rear, using copious amounts of WD40, wiggle the pads and caliper off of the disc. watch as the pads fall to the floor and wonder how the car ever stopped in the first place.

Take torxs thingy, and more WD40, undo the Torx screws on the old disc, and take off old disc. Attach new disc. Stand there trying to figure out how the damn Piston goes back into the caliper whilst scratching head and getting oil / brake dust / WD40 into hair. while the misses swears that you borked the car.

Tell wife to go make you a coffee before you have a heart attack. sit down and try and work out the puzzle that only Rubik could think of.

Figure out, that no matter how much you try and get the damn piston back into the caliper, it ain't budging. Undo bleed screw and take off rubber cover.

Take off rubbery bit from back of caliper. take off hook pin, and pull out brake cable arm. whilst wondering and telling the misses that you think this isn't such a good idea.

Take cover as the pressure inside the caliper propels the spring / center pin-screw thingy / and wedge shaped piece of metal. around the wheel arch and pours HLM fluid all over the floor.

Watch in amazement at the fact that the piston is now in side the caliper.

Take Spring and place into the back of the caliper, and insert center pin-screw thingy. and screw into place. place both new brake pads into the caliper and screw back onto the lower suspension strut.

Get really mucky as you Take 5 hours and lots of fiddling about, under the wheel arch, to get that wedge shaped piece of metal into the back of the caliper and put the Brake cable arm back into place.

Rejoice that the brakes are back together with new shinny brake disc's. reattach the brake cable. put wheel back on,

Take wheel back off, and bleed the brakes to get the air out and tighten the bleed nipple, undo the brake cable again, and reattach the rubber surround for the back of the caliper. reattach the brake cable, and put the wheel back on. tighten bolts. lower the car. start the engine and get the jack back. and take for a spin to test the brakes. only to realise that the hand brake comes up way to far but the brakes work perfectly.

Cry as you realise you still need to do the other side.... :shock:
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Post by Xaccers »

Yup, your way is slightly different :D

I'm sure we'll get it sorted on Monday.


In the mean time, could anyone post any guides/photos of rebuilding front brake calipers?
Just in case we need it.
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Post by TehAgent »

i blame my mate for lending me the tools lol,

Ever other car i had, you just G clamp the piston back in, no wonder it wasn't moving, if you have to screw it in. :oops:

Forgot to add, that i topped up the LHM fluid.
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Post by alan s »

TehAgent,

You should now be able to send PMs.

You'd ticked a wrong box when you registered and I have now rectified that.


Alan S
RIP Sept 19th 2008.

She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!
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Post by TehAgent »

lol, thanks Alan, thought id wronged a admin in a previous life.
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