my van has just failed its mot on the above being seized, and uneven rear brake application.
where do i find the valve and is it an easy jod to fix?
thanks for any advise.
Dispatch van - brake load sensing valve?
Moderator: RichardW
Dispatch van - brake load sensing valve?
hello,
my van has just failed its mot on the above being seized, and uneven rear brake application.
where do i find the valve and is it an easy jod to fix?
thanks for any advise.
my van has just failed its mot on the above being seized, and uneven rear brake application.
where do i find the valve and is it an easy jod to fix?
thanks for any advise.
Hi Steve.
The rear brake compensator is located somwhere on the rear subframe with a rod connecting it to the anti roll bar.
As you load up the van and the rear suspension drops a little, so the anti roll bar turns, upon doing this, the rod going to the compensator is forced towards it, this will in turn push the mechanism forward and open the compensator to allow more braking at the rear.
If you get under the car and find the compensator, have a look at where the rod from the anti roll bar joins it. Here you will find a metal plate that is held on either with a roll pin or 2 x rivets. This is the point at where it is supposed to move, betya it's rusted so it cannot move.
A tin of WD40 and a pair of pliers will normaly get it moving again, there is normaly no need for replacement.
Once you have it moving again, put some grease around the pivot points then it wont sieze again.
Regards
Slim.
The rear brake compensator is located somwhere on the rear subframe with a rod connecting it to the anti roll bar.
As you load up the van and the rear suspension drops a little, so the anti roll bar turns, upon doing this, the rod going to the compensator is forced towards it, this will in turn push the mechanism forward and open the compensator to allow more braking at the rear.
If you get under the car and find the compensator, have a look at where the rod from the anti roll bar joins it. Here you will find a metal plate that is held on either with a roll pin or 2 x rivets. This is the point at where it is supposed to move, betya it's rusted so it cannot move.
A tin of WD40 and a pair of pliers will normaly get it moving again, there is normaly no need for replacement.
Once you have it moving again, put some grease around the pivot points then it wont sieze again.
Regards
Slim.
i have renwed the wheel cylinder, 
I'd say you are now back in a standard brakes service problems. Dismantle and overhaul all bits on both rear brakes. You cant fix it with a magic spray can. Its labour time 
The load compensator valve has nothing to do whatsoever with un-even braking on the rear wheels.
The valve will only close off the brake pressure to the rear when the rear is not loaded. This is to avoid rear wheels blocking.
The load compensator valve has nothing to do whatsoever with un-even braking on the rear wheels.
The valve will only close off the brake pressure to the rear when the rear is not loaded. This is to avoid rear wheels blocking.
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
Having had fun and games with our ZX which had always seemed to have poor rear brakes I can say that loads of TLC works wonders and will produce remarkable improvements.
Obviously cylinders must be in good condition - but I found seized adjusters (could be overhauled at no cost - and re-greased (making sure to get grease under the star wheel thread)) rusty backplates ( impedes free movement of shoes) and that sort of thing 1 year after the cables, cylinders and shoes had been professionally replaced.
I always bevel the ends of the linings (sharp knife or wood chisel to cut the square end to 45 degrees or so) to give smooth braking and prevent snatch. Careful adjustment (if any is provided) may help as well, and in the case of the ZX the whole operation improved the handbrake efficiency considerably as well as the travel and efficiency of the footbrake. If I now stop at traffic lights and hold it on the brake pedal the back will drop when I release the pedal! (Brakes on, front goes down and rear rises which shortens the wheelbase due to the rear trailing arms. Brakes lock the wheels, release them and it settles)
Obviously cylinders must be in good condition - but I found seized adjusters (could be overhauled at no cost - and re-greased (making sure to get grease under the star wheel thread)) rusty backplates ( impedes free movement of shoes) and that sort of thing 1 year after the cables, cylinders and shoes had been professionally replaced.
I always bevel the ends of the linings (sharp knife or wood chisel to cut the square end to 45 degrees or so) to give smooth braking and prevent snatch. Careful adjustment (if any is provided) may help as well, and in the case of the ZX the whole operation improved the handbrake efficiency considerably as well as the travel and efficiency of the footbrake. If I now stop at traffic lights and hold it on the brake pedal the back will drop when I release the pedal! (Brakes on, front goes down and rear rises which shortens the wheelbase due to the rear trailing arms. Brakes lock the wheels, release them and it settles)
jeremy