Xantia engine problem

This is the Forum for all your Citroen Technical Questions, Problems or Advice.

Moderator: RichardW

Post Reply
GB
Posts: 165
Joined: 27 Jul 2006, 08:11
Location: Henley-on-Thames, UK
My Cars:

Xantia engine problem

Post by GB »

Can anyone help me identify what the problem is with my 2.0 16V Xantia?

- following new clutch installation, I took the car for a spin the other day and "gave it some berries" all the way up to 5500rpm (the engine ran very smoothly then);
- on my return home, the engine stopped idling smoothly, just kept jumping between 300 and 1500rpm, and finally it stalled a few times;
- since then, the engine starts OK for the first time, however, as soon as the engine warms up, it is almost impossible to turn it on again without stepping on the accelerator (it just cranks for up to 20 seconds). Then, the rev's go up to 2000rpm and I get a black cloud of smoke from the engine (obviously the engine is running very rich). The revs stay up for a few minutes;
- additionally, the engine hesitates and misfires each time it starts going uphill, just for a couple of seconds, and then runs smoothly;
- yellow "check engine" light is off while the engine is running;
- apart from these intermittent problems the engine runs very well;

Where would you recommend I start looking: stepper motor? air temperature sensor? emmission pipes?

PS
Spark plugs and air filter replaced 1500 miles ago.


Cheers,
GB
05 C5 VTR 2.0 HDI
115k
User avatar
AndersDK
Posts: 6060
Joined: 21 Feb 2003, 04:56
Location: Denmark
My Cars:
x 1

Post by AndersDK »

I would start looking at very common, simple and cheap problem : all the small vacuum rubber hoses.
These more often than not causes 'expensive' engine symptoms :wink:

It is very likely that a hose is disturbed, then split, fallen off a stud or simply is cracked by general rot. For replacement you can use any type fuel rubber lines suitable diameter, usually cheaply available off the roll at car accessory shops. Certainly no need spending ££'s on the dealers original parts.

Because the engine symptoms are like false air.
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
rowanmoor
Posts: 43
Joined: 23 Feb 2006, 13:59
Location: Redhill, Surrey
My Cars:

Post by rowanmoor »

Just in case you haven't been listening to the news for the last week, have you filled up at Tescos/Morrisons recently? If so check out the news articles about it.
Cheers,
Rowan.
mezuk04
Posts: 1125
Joined: 03 Sep 2004, 19:15
Location: Nottinghamshire, England
My Cars:

Post by mezuk04 »

My Zx 1.4 Petrol use to suffer from constant stalling, engine hesitation and after, for example, an hour long drive to sheffield, park up for a 20mins macdonalds the car would take a very long moment to start up again.

In the end, although I cant remember specifically, it was down to air.

The car would stall doing 40mph cruising, braking, accelerating and everytime I finished the day at college I use to ready myself to turn the key at the top of a hill when it cut out of me...every single time.
Volkswagen Golf 59' 1.6TD S :(
David W
Posts: 439
Joined: 30 Apr 2001, 17:49
Location: United Kingdom
My Cars:

Post by David W »

GB did you remove the transmission or the whole lot inc engine when doing the clutch? This surely is so likely something to do with the recent work ... loose connection or hose etc????

David
2009 C5 HDi VTR+Nav Tourer
2006 C3 HDi Desire
GB
Posts: 165
Joined: 27 Jul 2006, 08:11
Location: Henley-on-Thames, UK
My Cars:

Post by GB »

David W wrote:GB did you remove the transmission or the whole lot inc engine when doing the clutch? This surely is so likely something to do with the recent work ... loose connection or hose etc????

David
The clutch was replaced by Mr. Clutch in Reading - apparently they only removed the gearbox.

I had a look at all the vacum hoses and electrical connections that I could find, but I couldn't find anything obviously wrong with them. The stepper motor seems to work fine (now thoroughly cleaned), I am yet to check the throttle potentiometer with a multimeter (need to buy one).

The car's been idling really rough today, hunting between 300 and 1500 revs, and very hesitant to rev. Not sure whether this is linked to a rev problem from a few months ago - occasionaly the engine revs would just go up to ~ 3000rpm for no reason, once the engine was hot.

Apart from the "visible" vacum hoses on top of the engine, are these any hard to reach/see hoses at the back of the engine that I should check?

When replacing the clutch, apart from disconnecting the battery, are there any other wires that need disconnecting (and now checking)?


Cheers,
GB
05 C5 VTR 2.0 HDI
115k
ms00
Posts: 21
Joined: 26 Nov 2005, 12:32
Location:
My Cars:

Post by ms00 »

Hi GB,
Had a similar problem on a 96 Xantia 1.8 16v. It turned out to be the MAP sensor which is carefully hidden on the inlet manififold. Mine suffered poor starting and occasional racing once hot. After exhaustive checks of everything from the stepper motor to the throttle potentiometer replacing the MAP sensor did the trick. Try to pick one up from a scrappy as they are expensive new. I believe a 1.8 16valve will fit yours.
Mick
Mick
GB
Posts: 165
Joined: 27 Jul 2006, 08:11
Location: Henley-on-Thames, UK
My Cars:

Post by GB »

Thanks Mick.

Would anyone know the part number of the MAP sensor (can't seem to find it in pr net) - 2.0 16V engine 1996 model?


GB
05 C5 VTR 2.0 HDI
115k
jeremy
Posts: 3959
Joined: 20 Oct 2002, 16:00
Location: Hampshire, UK
My Cars:
x 2

Post by jeremy »

I think there are generic ones available - determined by the number of wires or something. May be worth a look at Euro Car Parts or GSF.
jeremy
GB
Posts: 165
Joined: 27 Jul 2006, 08:11
Location: Henley-on-Thames, UK
My Cars:

Post by GB »

AndresDK & Jeremy,

Thank you very much - problem fixed - it turned out to be both vacum and MAP sensor problem.

Well, decided to take the MAP sensor out to test it: so I removed the throttle body to gain some space necessary to use a spanner, but it turned out that no spanner was necessary - the MAP sensor was just hanging there, loosely attached to the inlet manifold, only took one full turn to remove it! So I took it out and cleaned it, with lots of black oil coming out of it.

Now the engine doesn't race anymore, idles very smoothly and accelerates much better than before. The engine still somehow hesitates to start up when its warm, but it is nowhere as bad as it used to be - I may just as well remove the MAP sensor again only to give it this time a proper petrol wash.

Cheers,
GB
05 C5 VTR 2.0 HDI
115k
citronut
Posts: 10937
Joined: 29 Apr 2005, 00:46
Location: United Kingdom east sussex
My Cars:
x 92

Post by citronut »

its probably better to give it a blast out with carb cleaner,also whilst you have a can of carb cleaner you can use it to find any vaccum leak at manifold and air pipes
regards malcolm
Post Reply