As you have already stated, "the car has been standing for a decade" Putting a screwdriver through the hole and releasing, will be as much use as a fart in a space suit!! It will be rusted up.
The only way will be to give it a bash around with a hammer. (it is common practice to use a heavy copper hammer to avoid damage) But if the discs are gonna be scrapped anyway, then use a lump hammer.
Next step will be to use a puller from the edges of the drum and pressing on the stub axle.
As said, this will break the tinny bits, but in my experience it is the only way.
Regards
Slim.
Rear drum removal
Moderator: RichardW
What we have done on 2CV's in the past is to use an old brake disk, carefully drilled to fit over the three studs.
Secure the disk with the wheel nuts and then put the legs of a three leg puller on the edges of the disk and the puller bolt on the end of the stub axle, something between the two to protect the stub axle is advisable eg soft metal.
You should then be able to withdraw the drum.
All the best,
Kristian.
Secure the disk with the wheel nuts and then put the legs of a three leg puller on the edges of the disk and the puller bolt on the end of the stub axle, something between the two to protect the stub axle is advisable eg soft metal.
You should then be able to withdraw the drum.
All the best,
Kristian.
1993 ZX 1.4i Aura
1984 2CV6 Club
1972 Dyane 6
Past Citroens
1975 CX
1972 GS Club
1984 2CV6 Club
1972 Dyane 6
Past Citroens
1975 CX
1972 GS Club
If the drum is scrap anyway I expect it'll respond to an angle grinder. If you can work out where the shoes are it should be possible to cut the drum off without damaging anything else!
If I really couldn't shift it I'd cut through the wearing surface first - working as close to the backplate as I could. I'd expect to be able to break what remained of the outer ring by driving a wedge into the gap I'd cut.
The vibration will probably shake it loose anyway.
If I really couldn't shift it I'd cut through the wearing surface first - working as close to the backplate as I could. I'd expect to be able to break what remained of the outer ring by driving a wedge into the gap I'd cut.
The vibration will probably shake it loose anyway.
jeremy
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I had just this problem with my Visa Decap project. Trouble with that was that the wheel cylinders were seized in the on position - making it difficult to push about. I fannied about a bit trying to get the drums off, but eventually just drove them off with a cold chisel (and big hammer 8) )behind the lip on the drum (there was a convenient space in the back plate for this) - once you start banging it about a bit the outer bearing will fall out, this then allows the drum to twist and it will eventually come off. Once I got the drums off I just squeezed the cylinders back in with a G cramp and stuck the drums back on.
Richard W
Re: Rear drum removal
excuse me for writing on a very old thread, but fighting this trouble described here, i found that is true, the drum will not come off if the adjuster is not realesed, i managed to do it without spoiling the stainless steel fin retainer by hooking it out through the wheel bolt with wire and introducing a small screw driver to drive the little toothed wheel, then the drum come off as easy as butter on hot bread