Xantia blower motors

[Hell Razor5543]

I would wait for CitroJim to respond to that, as I do not know the answer to that question.

[CitroJim]

The MJ11015 the correct one and is a PNP Darlington. Trust me on that. I am an electronics engineer by profession. I know my transistors

It was chosen for this role so that no insulation was needed between its collector and the heatsink it is attached to. All for economy and cheapness. Like the omission of emitter resistors that would have assisted current sharing and made the module more reliable.

[myglaren]

According to this site: ON Semiconductors.

The NPN Darlington Bipolar Power Transistor is designed for use as output devices in complementary general purpose amplifier applications. The MJ11015 (PNP); MJ11012 and MJ11016 (NPN) are complementary devices.

[Mandrake]

Thank you, I got it all now.

Now, I have just bought the MJ11015 transistors, but I was told they were NPN darlington, not PNP. And the seller told me there wasn't such a thing as a PNP MJ11015, to be PNP it has to held another reference.

Is this a problem, that is, using MJ11015 NPN?

A quick google search suggests your supplier is wrong:

http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/MJ11012-D.PDF

PNP Darlington.

[luisaam]

Hi, everybody, just to let you know the repair was totally successful!

Thank you all for your help!

[CitroJim]

Hi, everybody, just to let you know the repair was totally successful!

Thank you all for your help!

That brilliant news Luís

I'm utterly delighted!

[beko1987]

Aha, google fu always brings me back here with xantia related questions!

09.50, parked up at work, popped her into high because the dead spheres result in sinkage if not, turned the key back to knock the engine off and Phoomph - fans on full blast. Cursory move of the speed control from auto to min and nothing.

So, providing it hasn't magically fixed itself by lunchtime when I'll have another look, I have been pointed to the Resistor module by the facebook group.

I've read Jim's excellent as usual guide on the subject, and expressed delight that the resistors are still actually sold, and my pigeon s**t soldering may be good enough, failing that I'll get my stepdad a bottle of ale and leave it with him and just have no fans for a day, but...

I found this on ebay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heater-Blower ... 3641.l6368, infact there's quite a few looking around. But a few pages back on this thread concern was expressed that their s**t and have the wrong resistors fitted.

So - repair mine or buy a new unit? My other question is, is there a guide somewhere to get at the resistor pack? Do I have to drop the whole motor unit down and have it apart?
The handy thing is it's bloody freezing at the moment, so fans on full isn't a massive pain for the short term, judicious use of the floor vents and closing the dash vents will help, as well as cracking a window if things get too hot, but I'll have to turn the radio up a bit higher than usual.

MOT tomorrow morning too, at least the tester will be toasty as he does the internal checks!

[ekjdm14]

So your heater control is stuck on hot as well, judging from the comment about opening a window?

If that's the case could there be something else amiss too, rather than the blower module?

[beko1987]

No, sorry, the window comment was flippant!

Temp and direction works fine, but the fans are on full tilt no matter what the setting is.

Well, I presume the remperature works fine, will test it on the way home tonight. I had a try at lunchtime and the magical elves had not visited as it was still an issue

[CitroJim]

I found this on ebay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heater-Blower ... 3641.l6368, infact there's quite a few looking around. But a few pages back on this thread concern was expressed that their s**t and have the wrong resistors fitted.

Yes, some of those are definitely dodgy... They often have the wrong transistors and don't work... I had one in an XM I once owned... Ex-owner thought it must be a really serious issue if a new regulator didn't fix the issue...

Those eBay modules can be made good by replacing the transistors with the correct ones but the genuine transistors cost as much again...

Best to fix your old one... It's not difficult if you (or a friend/relative) can solder... I take it you've seen the guide on here?

[Mandrake]

09.50, parked up at work, popped her into high because the dead spheres result in sinkage if not,

Flat spheres won't cause your Xantia to sink to the bottom when left standing if its an anti-sink model. It will be something else, such as a leaky ram or anti-sink valve.

[CitroJim]

09.50, parked up at work, popped her into high because the dead spheres result in sinkage if not,

Flat spheres won't cause your Xantia to sink to the bottom when left standing if its an anti-sink model. It will be something else, such as a leaky ram or anti-sink valve.

No, indeed not, not completely anyway... Which end is sinking?

[beko1987]

The rear goes down (not all the time, but most). The blower motors ran fine this morning, will get them changed but...

Just had an MOT fail. Going to find my thread and update it to not de-rail this one. Anyone got a spare drivers seat for cheap/free? condition not cared about!

[CitroJim]

Just had an MOT fail. Going to find my thread and update it to not de-rail this one. Anyone got a spare drivers seat for cheap/free? condition not cared about!

Sorry to hear about the MoT

No, just rehomed a driver's seat but have 90% of a passengers seat - seat foam rehomed. Is that any use for parts for yours?

[clydeowenp]

French electrics aren't unreliable but they can throw some funky issues as you've found out! how easy was it to swap the fusebox out though? theres not much room under the dash to get at it!

I had a Saxo where the Electric PAS pump and the radiator fan both stopped working. Could not find the issue for ages, fuses were fine and everything else on the car worked. Turned out the wire leading from the battery to the fusebox under the bonnet that had perished! How everything else worked completely baffled me.

Sorry it's taken so long to respond, don't get time to go on here as often as I'd like and not very good at finding my way around.
Changing the fuse box on the Xantia is surprisingly easy. Remove the panel under the dash, the bit with the fuse panel access door attached. It took a while to work out how the fuse box is held in but when I released the clips I was able to pull it down far enough to release the connecting blocks. Blocks have a metal bit on te side which you need to press to release them. They are colour coded and so is the back of the fuse box to make refitting easier. The connectors are also designed so it's impossible to fit them in the wrong position when refitting. It can be a bit of a fiddle to reconnect the connector blocks but starting at the top and working downwards makes it easier.
Pushing the fuse box back into place is the most difficult bit as there's no room to get in and pull the wires back up. I just pushed it up hard until it clicked into place making sure I didn't trap any wires.
I can't remember how I released the clips holding the fuse box in but if anyone wants that information email me and I'll do my best to find out.