Xantia blower motors

[Stickyfinger]

I have a spare cowl for a Mk1.....Jim could pick it up next time he is down..........

[Rhothgar]

Jim informs me he already has one but thank you anyway.

[CitroJim]

I have just sent Roger home with a working blower And a working wireless too...

Roger's ignition switch was so bad it would no longer switch at all so we had to pick up an ignition-switched supply for the relay from the other ignition switch contacts...

Great to see you today Roger, throughout enjoyed Don't leave it so long next time

And thanks for the choccy bikkies!

[Rhothgar]

Home safely Jim.

Thank God I took you up on your very kind offer because there was no way I would have had a working blower if I had have followed the standard procedure due to the fact that the ignition switch was so bad.

Nice to watch an electrical genius, nay! a man of many talents at work.

[Hell Razor5543]

And his flapjacks ain't bad either!

[CitroJim]

And his flapjacks ain't bad either!

Busy right now making a new batch

Pleased all is good Roger It was really good to see you yesterday and thoroughly enjoyed!

[Rhothgar]

Think I need to ask admins to change the name of this thread to "Rhothgar's Blog".

The S1 is giving me minor headaches all the time it seems. I've still not put the steering wheel cowls back on from when Jim kindly did the ignition mod.

The brakelights were intermittent and then they just stopped. Well I solved that at 9:45pm on Sunday night because I needed a car yesterday. Well! When I got home, it has Sylv to see if the brake lights were working before I headed off out into the night and NOPE! When I got back home, I picked up the cars to the Xantia and headed out into the darkness, again at 9:45pm. I've worked out what's wrong but cannot work out how to fix it.

At the very beginning of this post, I mentioned dropping the fusebox which I did. The fusebox must be an earth because when I pushed it back up, the brake lights work with pedal actuated.

So the question today is how do you refix the driver side fusebox in place. There is a little red plastic slider which I remember pulling on but I cannot see to get the fusebox to securely fix. Lost a wheel trim yesterday also. That's upset me. Two owner 80k mile S1 with 3 wheel trims. It's things like this that make old cars look tired...

[ekjdm14]

That sounds to me more like a loose plug or a break in the wiring that's being pushed back into place when the fusebox is seated fully home. I'm not 100% but I believe both our S1 brakelights work with the fusebox down. I'll go and have a look in a minute & also try and get a photo of the fusebox clipped home for you.

Hopefully this helps, but if I'm right and it's a faulty connection somewhere then fixing the fusebox up would only be temporary/intermittent fix at best & you'd have to trace back up the wires from the pedal to find the break. (given that it's affected by the fusebox at the moment I think that narrows it down a bit at least). Will report back in a few minutes my findings.

[CitroJim]

It may also be a duff fusebox Roger... Not unknown... They are a right ****** to swap...

I believe I may have a spare here so when you visit for that bike ride we can have a look

[ekjdm14]

Just tried to upload pics of one of our S1 fuseboxes in the unclipped, inserted but not locked and locked positions but the files seem to have failed will have to try again later but for now I can unfortunately say you likely have a loose connection. (EDIT- or dodgy fusebox as Jim says, fingers crossed it's not that though as I can see how much of a pain it'd be to unplug/replug all those connections given the age/stiffness of the loom)

Hopefully just a loose plug in the back of the fusebox but it'll need tracking down and sorting for a permanent fix. (Both our S1, '95 model and '98, the brake lights work with the fusebox up or down or anywhere I pull it to. The one anomaly I notice that could be relevant given the state of your ignition switch, the '98 model brake lights only work with the ignition in run/fully on whereas the earlier car the brake lights work in both run and acc. positions.)

As far as getting the fusebox fully home, you need to push it up into it's holder in the forward/upper position, then hold it up in place with quite a firm hand so it's runners engage and slide it back/down about 5/8" before pushing the locking tab back in. Hope this is some help.

[Rhothgar]

Cheers chaps!

I did manage to get it back up last night as I think I posted.

Interesting hypothesis about there being a faulty connection. I certainly hope not.

In fact, looking back through the post, I dropped the fusebox some time before Jim kindly sorted my ignition switch bypass. I hope I've not been driving around with faulty brake lights all that time.

It's nigh on impossible to gain access to the connectors on top of the fuse box and I fear when I have tried to pull it down I may have inadvertently strained a cable or pulled a connector. They were working still earlier this evening.

Fingers crossed.

[Rhothgar]

Just tried to upload pics of one of our S1 fuseboxes in the unclipped, inserted but not locked and locked positions but the files seem to have failed will have to try again later but for now I can unfortunately say you likely have a loose connection. (EDIT- or dodgy fusebox as Jim says, fingers crossed it's not that though as I can see how much of a pain it'd be to unplug/replug all those connections given the age/stiffness of the loom)

Hopefully just a loose plug in the back of the fusebox but it'll need tracking down and sorting for a permanent fix. (Both our S1, '95 model and '98, the brake lights work with the fusebox up or down or anywhere I pull it to. The one anomaly I notice that could be relevant given the state of your ignition switch, the '98 model brake lights only work with the ignition in run/fully on whereas the earlier car the brake lights work in both run and acc. positions.)

As far as getting the fusebox fully home, you need to push it up into it's holder in the forward/upper position, then hold it up in place with quite a firm hand so it's runners engage and slide it back/down about 5/8" before pushing the locking tab back in. Hope this is some help.

Interesting revisiting this post after nearly 4 years.

The technique for getting the fusebox back in should anyone need it is to push it up into position and use the heel of your hand to push in any area where it seems particularly resistance. Once it is sat up again the metal surround, you slide it up (or down - already forget and only did it 30 minutes ago) and push the red tab in!

I have another post which I will edit shortly about this but I now have everything working again. With my current issue which was self-inflicted, what had happened with my 13 OR orange connector (the hardest to access) was that it was not staying seated. As I removed the fusebox for the 2nd or 3rd time, I realised the the silver plastic surround that sits at the top of the connector had slipped below the two security tangs which lock the connector in place thus keeping the locking tangs in a disengaged position! Solution: Press the tangs in and waggle the silver plastic surround back to the top of the connector where it should be. NOTE: The two tangs should sit BELOW the silver plastic surround.

I should have taken a photo just in case someone else reads this and ever has the same problem.