Xantia tie rod ends replacement

[GB]

It appears that the tie rod ends on my Xantia are worn out (get a lot of kick back from the steering when driving over bumps).

Are these easy to replace? Do I need any special tools? Should I just hack saw the bolts off?


Cheers,
GB

[KP]

Dead easy two bolts. use loads of grease on teh new ones and put more into the rubber boots on teh new ones as well. loads of grease over the nuts as well will make them easier to take off next time

[citronut]

i think GB is talking track rod ends not anti roll bar link rods,but i cant remember if the track rod ends are removeable from the track rods,if they are you will need to mesure from the lock nut to the centre of the back of the swivel joint and try to achivethe same mesurement on the new one when refitting,this will set the tracking back were it was or there abouts,its still best to get it checked on a tracking gauge
regards malcolm

[andmcit]

Could be the bottom wishbone bushes?

The trackrods can be a right git to undo so plan for some spannering time!

There's the possibility the thread and the big nut on the track rod wont undo
and you'll need to unthread the ball joint inner swivel off the end of the
steering rack (which isn't very easy on a Xantia with it's limited space
- obviously turn the rack as much as possible to "improve" access). The
best chance you've got of getting anything to work is replacement of the
whole tie rod and the end joint. IIRC getting the gaiter back on over the
lot was awful and took me ages too!!

Nothing like encouragement on a job you're about to do; and this isn't!!

Andrew

[RichardW]

The trick with track rod ends is to break the inner end first, that way it doesn't all flop about. Give the thread past the lock nut a really good clean then spray well with Plus Gas. Now use a well fitting spanner and back the lock nut off - you need to 'wind up' the ball joint so it leans on the track rod end (you'll see what I mean!). If it wont go easily, give it a bit of gentle persuasion on the spanner with a hammer. Still won't go? Get some heat on it. Once you have backed the lock nut off, wind back the track rod a couple of turns to get that going. Again, hammer and heat if necessary. Now undo the ball joint nut and split the joint. If it's an original joint, the nut on the ball joint will be 16mm, and you'll probably need to lever off the nylon bit underneath to get a spanner on it (or use a deep 16mm socket). Make sure you wind the nut right off the joint till it goes easily before breaking the taper - otherwise you end up sawing the bugger off anyway (been there done that!). If when you come to do it up, the taper goes round, squeeze the joint together with a big pair of gas pliers to get some grip to stop it going round.

[GB]

Could be the bottom wishbone bushes?

Andrew

Wishbone bushes are shot as well. However, this seems like a more time consuming job, so it has to wait for a few weeks.

PS
Do I need to take the lower wishbone out to replace the bushes? Would a blow torch, hack saw and spanners suffice?


Cheers,
GB

[RichardW]

Yes, you will need to take the arms out to replace the bushes- it can be a complete PITA to get the old bushes out and the new ones in. You also need to remove the roll bar links to get the arms out - and this will almost certainly entail cutting them off, so new ones will be required.

[andmcit]

I didn't need to remove the drop links on mine Richard, but you're right
about them being a real PITA to remove off the arm. Unless they've totally
deteriorated, I wouldn't trouble myself doing the small front mushroom one's
- these little sods don't EVER want to come out of their seating and were OK
had I left them alone on the car - concentrate on the bigger rear one's which
are (happily) easier to replace!!

Andrew

[GB]

I Unless they've totally
deteriorated, I wouldn't trouble myself doing the small front mushroom one's
- these little sods don't EVER want to come out of their seating and were OK
had I left them alone on the car - concentrate on the bigger rear one's which
are (happily) easier to replace!!

Andrew

Thanks for the hint.

Is this usually the case? The car is now 11 years old and has done 89000 miles - should I even bother with replacing the front bushes? The rear bushes are definitely shot, but the front bushes' condition is very hard to tell.

PS.
It seems that my weekend afternoon job now includes: clean and lubricate sticking rear height corrector, replace front disks and pads, replace tie rod ends, ball joints and rear bushes, replace LHM. Oh joy...

Cheers,
GB

[citronut]

that will keep you out of mischife for a good few day HE HE HE
regards malcolm

[lolingram]

Unless you are experiencing steering wander and/or noisy front end over bumps HAVING ALREADY CHANGED THE DROP LINKS, I would leave the wishbone bushes alone. These are Polyurathene and can have an incredibly long life, nothwithstanding apperances.

I Unless they've totally
deteriorated, I wouldn't trouble myself doing the small front mushroom one's
- these little sods don't EVER want to come out of their seating and were OK
had I left them alone on the car - concentrate on the bigger rear one's which
are (happily) easier to replace!!

[GB]

Unless you are experiencing steering wander and/or noisy front end over bumps HAVING ALREADY CHANGED THE DROP LINKS, I would leave the wishbone bushes alone. These are Polyurathene and can have an incredibly long life, nothwithstanding apperances.

Drop links were replaced a few months ago - the suspension is now much quieter. However, the steering wonder is quite evident - you can feel/hear the front left tyre almost "plough the road" when turning right. The tyre is heavily worn out (on the outside) after only 10K miles (according to the books and previous owner).

The car needs a new set of tyres soon, so I would like this (bushes, tie rod links and ball joints) sorted out now.

So what's the consensus? Should I replace the front bushes as well as rear?


Cheers,
GB

[paulbx]

IF you've replaced the drop links then lower bushes tend to give a clank (drop link a "clonk") over bumps and potholes.

Front tyres wearing unevenly and tracking perfect often point to a lower swivel ball joint problem.

I have a Xantia estate now but my BX had worn drop links and upper lower wishbones bushes replaced. The handling became much tighter and less "syrupy". However I did not experience any odd tyre wear.

paul B

[lolingram]

My thoughts are that for the steering wander you are experiencing, it is pretty unlikely to be the wishbone bushes unless they (wishbones) can be substancially levered around with a tyre lever - I have a 200K Xantia and they are still OK... much more likely to be track-rod end balljoints IMHO. A little play can have much effect here. Also, given the PITA is is to repalce the wishbone bushes, it might be worth consider complete wishbones, which are not THAT much more.

Thanks for the hint.

Is this usually the case? The car is now 11 years old and has done 89000 miles - should I even bother with replacing the front bushes? The rear bushes are definitely shot, but the front bushes' condition is very hard to tell.

[andmcit]

Unbelievably, Mr MOTman was telling me the other day that these bushes
aren't a failure point on the test, unless I didn't get the point he was making!!
They'll certainly give up though creating more wander/woolyness in the car's
steering causing premature tyre wear. Changed the lot on my 2.0i VSX and it
helped sharpen the front up no end.

I've seen the main wear in the peeling away of the rubber off the shackle on
the rear bush. Pretty sure if the roads in the UK are a lot worse than those in
France now Lol...

Andrew