Got another problem developing on my Xantia HDi, now that it's rolled over to 250kmiles it obviously thinks it deserves a rest....
Upon startup recently it has stalled a couple of times when pulling off, (and I'm sure it's not just my clutch control...! ) also steering tends to a bit stiff for the first 3 point turn in my road, brakes occasionally not as good on that turn, so I have allowed a bit longer idle before setting off to give it chance to charge up the reservoir a bit. Fine after I;ve turned out of my road.
Today, coming home after a 20 mile trip, power steering suddenly got very lumpy and heavy for the last mile home.
Now from reading here on the forum, it sounds like my hydraulic pump is probably on the way out. Am I right in thinking best course of action is...
1. Flush LHM, replace with Hydraflush.
2. Keep driving for 1000 miles
3. If no improvement/ steering gets worse replace pump
4. Replace Hydraflush with LHM
Is Plieades the best + cheapest source for a new pump, assuming this is required.
Cheers
Xantia Power Steering, New pump time?
Moderator: RichardW
Get your stalling sorted first - low pump speed - no power. The accumulator isn't in the steering circuit.
If your idling is correct at ALL times - change the pump - the rest is unlikely to make any difference.
If not - this post will provide you with many case studys - but basically unless the fluid id very dirty a flush probably won't make any difference and certainly isn't a miracle cure for general wear.
If your idling is correct at ALL times - change the pump - the rest is unlikely to make any difference.
If not - this post will provide you with many case studys - but basically unless the fluid id very dirty a flush probably won't make any difference and certainly isn't a miracle cure for general wear.
jeremy
In my humble experience, flushing aint gonna fix a duff pump! BUT, it is allways a good thing to flush the system before fitting a new part, as this way you will be putting the pump on a clean system.
Also it is a good idea to change the main accumulator at the same time as a pump change, a knackered main accumulator can and will damage a pump.
Using lots of different places for bits over the years, Pleiades are ususally the cheapest, but they are definatly the best quality that I have used and it all comes with a 2 year warranty. I dont even bother pricing anyone else.
Regards
Slim
Also it is a good idea to change the main accumulator at the same time as a pump change, a knackered main accumulator can and will damage a pump.
Using lots of different places for bits over the years, Pleiades are ususally the cheapest, but they are definatly the best quality that I have used and it all comes with a 2 year warranty. I dont even bother pricing anyone else.
Regards
Slim
Don't forget to check for air leaks on the inlet pipe for the pump! The power steering wont work very well if the pump is pumping air instead of oil! Always check the simple things first!
Regards,
Simon
Regards,
Simon
Simon
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
Thanks for all the replies.
Fluid level was checked the other day. As I was driving virtually right past GSF I decided it would be rude not to pop in and buy a couple of litres of LHM, so when I got home it was an excuse to check levels.
I will try and check for air leaks, although that sort of thing isn't usually easy to spot.
I hadn't thought about belt tension, definitely worth a go that one.
My reasons for suggesting the Hydraflush were more that it seemed a good idea to clean the system before changing the pump, rather than really expecting it to cure anything, although you never know...
My money is still on the pump being the problem, but at least I have some other things to check first now.
Thanks again for the replies so far
Fluid level was checked the other day. As I was driving virtually right past GSF I decided it would be rude not to pop in and buy a couple of litres of LHM, so when I got home it was an excuse to check levels.
I will try and check for air leaks, although that sort of thing isn't usually easy to spot.
I hadn't thought about belt tension, definitely worth a go that one.
My reasons for suggesting the Hydraflush were more that it seemed a good idea to clean the system before changing the pump, rather than really expecting it to cure anything, although you never know...
My money is still on the pump being the problem, but at least I have some other things to check first now.
Thanks again for the replies so far