Xantia Activa - What to do?
Moderator: RichardW
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whitecrook2
- Posts: 30
- Joined: 29 Nov 2006, 12:59
- Location: Clydebank, Sunny Scotland
- My Cars:
Wow a lot of posts since I last checked.
Yeah the other alloy is not in the spare bay, + the worn tyre is on the front left alloy, It's a michelin, the others are all almost new nankings(?) I guess at some point somebody couldn't be bothered buying 4 tyres and only bought 3 (or something) anyway...
Thanks for the posts, there's a few things here for me to check.
When the 'K' Light (engine management) light comes on there's a distinct loss of power in the engine. I'll try and check out the boost adjust ment on it. Is it normal to be able to wheelspin all through first and second (didn't try third as at that point it was a bit extreme), remember no traction control active at the moment...
I checked the rear brakes this morning but didn't get to do much, it's a bit rainy here at the moment, however the rear discs are coated in LHM, and the discs are worn down a good few mm. There's about 1-2 mm of pad left.
The back plate has got a coating of LHM as well. Looking at the brakes on my LX, they are 'dry' (the whole brake area) compared to these brakes. The BOL suggests a brake caliper renewal kit from the dealer, so i'll probably get that x2, and new discs and new pads, then fit it next weekend weather permitting.
Regards
Yeah the other alloy is not in the spare bay, + the worn tyre is on the front left alloy, It's a michelin, the others are all almost new nankings(?) I guess at some point somebody couldn't be bothered buying 4 tyres and only bought 3 (or something) anyway...
Thanks for the posts, there's a few things here for me to check.
When the 'K' Light (engine management) light comes on there's a distinct loss of power in the engine. I'll try and check out the boost adjust ment on it. Is it normal to be able to wheelspin all through first and second (didn't try third as at that point it was a bit extreme), remember no traction control active at the moment...
I checked the rear brakes this morning but didn't get to do much, it's a bit rainy here at the moment, however the rear discs are coated in LHM, and the discs are worn down a good few mm. There's about 1-2 mm of pad left.
The back plate has got a coating of LHM as well. Looking at the brakes on my LX, they are 'dry' (the whole brake area) compared to these brakes. The BOL suggests a brake caliper renewal kit from the dealer, so i'll probably get that x2, and new discs and new pads, then fit it next weekend weather permitting.
Regards
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96 1.9td estate 170K, 97 R activa
96 1.9td estate 170K, 97 R activa
sounds like the rear pads need changing
as for wheelspinning in 1st and 2nd yes, and most probably 3rd with a bald tyre and some rain thrashing it, i can spin my 2.1td in 3rd, so i would assume yours will be able to, although i don't encourage you do anything outside of the law!
someone else can answer the k light better, but it's usualy a sensor, as someone mentioned before check the dump valve, and also a cranksensor (especially if u lose power suddenly) or it could be something more obscure as the air sensor
remeber the wheels are special re-inforced ones for the activa, i wouldn't buy a different type, and in my opinion i'd change the steel wheel you have and the bad tyre, the activa system works so well you do really rely on the wheels and tyres more than most cars
i'm tempted myself to get one as a toy if you picked that one for £300!!
Dei
as for wheelspinning in 1st and 2nd yes, and most probably 3rd with a bald tyre and some rain thrashing it, i can spin my 2.1td in 3rd, so i would assume yours will be able to, although i don't encourage you do anything outside of the law!
someone else can answer the k light better, but it's usualy a sensor, as someone mentioned before check the dump valve, and also a cranksensor (especially if u lose power suddenly) or it could be something more obscure as the air sensor
remeber the wheels are special re-inforced ones for the activa, i wouldn't buy a different type, and in my opinion i'd change the steel wheel you have and the bad tyre, the activa system works so well you do really rely on the wheels and tyres more than most cars
i'm tempted myself to get one as a toy if you picked that one for £300!!
Dei
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KevMayer
- Posts: 1051
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003, 22:01
- Location: Staffordshire, United Kingdom
- My Cars:
- x 2
Activa vs Type R
We were on a country lane. I got behind him. He put his foot down and I followed right up his rear end.
I couldn't overtake and he couldn't shake me off. So it was a draw. But I was very pleased with the way my Activa kept up.
I got rid of the Activa because it was too fast. Every time I drove it I just went silly.
My C5 with leather and cruise control is much more relaxed.
I miss the Activa though.
If you're getting lots of wheel spin in 2nd then you're definately running with increased boost pressure and thats why your K light is coming on. You can't exceed the ECU's limit of 1 bar. You need to find out what has made the boost rise, either a mod or possibly a fault on the pressure line feeding boost pressure to the waste gate actuator. If it's a mod, then back it off a little. Extra boost is fun but not when it causes power to be chopped.
Kev
We were on a country lane. I got behind him. He put his foot down and I followed right up his rear end.
I couldn't overtake and he couldn't shake me off. So it was a draw. But I was very pleased with the way my Activa kept up.
I got rid of the Activa because it was too fast. Every time I drove it I just went silly.
My C5 with leather and cruise control is much more relaxed.
I miss the Activa though.
If you're getting lots of wheel spin in 2nd then you're definately running with increased boost pressure and thats why your K light is coming on. You can't exceed the ECU's limit of 1 bar. You need to find out what has made the boost rise, either a mod or possibly a fault on the pressure line feeding boost pressure to the waste gate actuator. If it's a mod, then back it off a little. Extra boost is fun but not when it causes power to be chopped.
Kev
Cheers, Kev
02 plate C5 2.2 Hdi Exclusive SE (now 170k miles 03/21).
Used to have:- Xantia 1.9 TurboD SX. 1996 Blue & 1998 Silver Activa. + 1992 BX TZD Turbo.
02 plate C5 2.2 Hdi Exclusive SE (now 170k miles 03/21).
Used to have:- Xantia 1.9 TurboD SX. 1996 Blue & 1998 Silver Activa. + 1992 BX TZD Turbo.
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whitecrook2
- Posts: 30
- Joined: 29 Nov 2006, 12:59
- Location: Clydebank, Sunny Scotland
- My Cars:
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whitecrook2
- Posts: 30
- Joined: 29 Nov 2006, 12:59
- Location: Clydebank, Sunny Scotland
- My Cars:
Well today I changed the discs pads and calipers on the Activa.
Before I put the wheels back on, I put the car back to normal height (still on axle stands ) unscrewed the bleed nipple and assistant pressed the brake pedal until LHM came through, the nipped up each nipple, did each side twice.
However when putting on the wheel it was quite difficult on the near side so I got an assistant to press the brake pedal to hold the disc in place when I attached the wheel - But it didn't seem to stop the disc spinning round! I think it did after maybe a minute or so, but by then I had the wheel on anyway and it was dark.
Is that normal? Do I need to bleed each side 1 wheel at a time? (i.e weight of the car on the remaining wheel while I bleed?)
I also got a good look at the ABS sensors there, they sit right behind, inside the disc, the nearside had spiders nest + cobwebs all sorts and looked absolutly new no rust at all on the teeth, drivers side was bit rusty covered in dust and LHM gunk.
Gave them all quick clean and blast with PTFE spray. I'll need to check the fronts next, + test the readings at the ECU as the ABS light is still on.
Before I put the wheels back on, I put the car back to normal height (still on axle stands ) unscrewed the bleed nipple and assistant pressed the brake pedal until LHM came through, the nipped up each nipple, did each side twice.
However when putting on the wheel it was quite difficult on the near side so I got an assistant to press the brake pedal to hold the disc in place when I attached the wheel - But it didn't seem to stop the disc spinning round! I think it did after maybe a minute or so, but by then I had the wheel on anyway and it was dark.
Is that normal? Do I need to bleed each side 1 wheel at a time? (i.e weight of the car on the remaining wheel while I bleed?)
I also got a good look at the ABS sensors there, they sit right behind, inside the disc, the nearside had spiders nest + cobwebs all sorts and looked absolutly new no rust at all on the teeth, drivers side was bit rusty covered in dust and LHM gunk.
Gave them all quick clean and blast with PTFE spray. I'll need to check the fronts next, + test the readings at the ECU as the ABS light is still on.
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96 1.9td estate 170K, 97 R activa
96 1.9td estate 170K, 97 R activa
You'll always get that, 'OMG the brakes don't work' moment after changing
pads let alone discs too. Everything will need to bed down and be used in
anger. Don't think you've got a problem with the bleeding, though it's not
clear whether you had the actual rear trailing arm supported as you bled it.
IIRC, you'll need the weight on the arm with the suspension pressurised up.
Andrew
pads let alone discs too. Everything will need to bed down and be used in
anger. Don't think you've got a problem with the bleeding, though it's not
clear whether you had the actual rear trailing arm supported as you bled it.
IIRC, you'll need the weight on the arm with the suspension pressurised up.
Andrew
The back brakes are fed from the back suspension circuit - yes its true - so the greater the load the greater the available pressure - and so no load - no pressure. They should be bled with the suspension set for max height then the height corrector is open and full pressure is available.
If the ABS light stays on before the car is moved I think the fault will not lie in the rotors or the sensor spacing. This is because I think the test at that stage is a simple continuity test. If it came on when the car was moving t might be if as the system may be able to detect a poor output from a sensor. I am not sure on this point.
If the ABS light stays on before the car is moved I think the fault will not lie in the rotors or the sensor spacing. This is because I think the test at that stage is a simple continuity test. If it came on when the car was moving t might be if as the system may be able to detect a poor output from a sensor. I am not sure on this point.
jeremy
The ABS does sound like a sensor - the system does it's own 'preflight check'
and if one of the sensors is open circuit it will failsafe into normal with light
on mode. Yes, if the sensor gives a weird not in sync with other sensors
signal whilst the car is moving, the light will then come on. I managed this
scenario after using the wrong spec driveshafts for the hub mounted
sensors when I changed them after an engine out job...
Andrew
and if one of the sensors is open circuit it will failsafe into normal with light
on mode. Yes, if the sensor gives a weird not in sync with other sensors
signal whilst the car is moving, the light will then come on. I managed this
scenario after using the wrong spec driveshafts for the hub mounted
sensors when I changed them after an engine out job...
Andrew
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DickieG
- Monaco's youngest playboy
- Posts: 4877
- Joined: 25 Nov 2006, 09:15
- Location: Buckinghamshire
- My Cars:
- x 38
You can bleed the rear brakes on an Activa when its still got its original wheels fitted by simply poking the bleed pipe and spanner through one of the slots in the wheel. No need to remove the wheel/jack the car up etc 
13 Ram 1500 Hemi
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14 BMW 535D Tourer
19 BMW i3s
06 C3 Desire 1.4
72 DS 21 EFi Pallas BVH
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whitecrook2
- Posts: 30
- Joined: 29 Nov 2006, 12:59
- Location: Clydebank, Sunny Scotland
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This forum is great 4 posts reply in a few minutes - thanks !
So it seems OK then, I'll be at work all week, so I won't really get a chance to check out any of the ABS stuff until the 24th Eeek!
The trailing arms weren't supported, the axle stands were underneath the ends of the rounded bar with flattend ends on 2 bolts at each end, if you know what I mean, directly underneath the vertical part of the chassis.
So it seems OK then, I'll be at work all week, so I won't really get a chance to check out any of the ABS stuff until the 24th Eeek!
The trailing arms weren't supported, the axle stands were underneath the ends of the rounded bar with flattend ends on 2 bolts at each end, if you know what I mean, directly underneath the vertical part of the chassis.
--
96 1.9td estate 170K, 97 R activa
96 1.9td estate 170K, 97 R activa
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whitecrook2
- Posts: 30
- Joined: 29 Nov 2006, 12:59
- Location: Clydebank, Sunny Scotland
- My Cars:
I metered the resistance on the ABS ECU plug as per other posts on this board and found the RHF to give infinite resistance. I took the wheel and sensor off and cleaned it up inspected the cabling but didn't see any cuts or worn wires at all.
I took apart the plug with the spring clip and metered each side (shorted out the ECU plug) and got a reading on the ECU side but no reading on the Sensor side.
Would I be correct in saying that this looks almost definately like the ABS sensor?
Is there anything specific I need to measure when reseating the replacement ABS sensor or does it fit in and just work (distance from drive shaft)?
Thanks again
I took apart the plug with the spring clip and metered each side (shorted out the ECU plug) and got a reading on the ECU side but no reading on the Sensor side.
Would I be correct in saying that this looks almost definately like the ABS sensor?
Is there anything specific I need to measure when reseating the replacement ABS sensor or does it fit in and just work (distance from drive shaft)?
Thanks again
--
96 1.9td estate 170K, 97 R activa
96 1.9td estate 170K, 97 R activa
The significant difference with Xantia ABS sensors is not the main field
wiring housing/cylinder at all with it's pick up tooth - Citroen did however
alter the thickness of a brass coloured collar/washer/collet [call it what
you like!].
This is moulded into the plastic of the sensor through which the securing
bolt is threaded; they've done this to allow a significant clearance
difference in the CV joint on varying designs of driveshafts.
I've shimmed with washers to the correct thickness with one type that
wasn't the correct one for a particular car's hub but wouldn't be able to
'thin' the built in collar down on it's opposite type/design.
AFAIK, there's a gap tolerance of a 1mm.
The job of changing a sensor is actually reasonably easy enough to do,
the hard part is finding/undoing the multi plug in the first place and you've
already done that!!
Andrew
wiring housing/cylinder at all with it's pick up tooth - Citroen did however
alter the thickness of a brass coloured collar/washer/collet [call it what
you like!].
This is moulded into the plastic of the sensor through which the securing
bolt is threaded; they've done this to allow a significant clearance
difference in the CV joint on varying designs of driveshafts.
I've shimmed with washers to the correct thickness with one type that
wasn't the correct one for a particular car's hub but wouldn't be able to
'thin' the built in collar down on it's opposite type/design.
AFAIK, there's a gap tolerance of a 1mm.
The job of changing a sensor is actually reasonably easy enough to do,
the hard part is finding/undoing the multi plug in the first place and you've
already done that!!
Andrew