Squeaky aux belt and wobbly pulley
Moderator: RichardW
Squeaky aux belt and wobbly pulley
When the car is cold, the aux belt is squeaky when idling. It's not the screech you get from a loose or worn one though. It quietens down with a spray of WD40 for a day or so, then starts up again.
Is there a tensioner, and could it be the bearings? If so, what are these like to change? It's on a 1.9XUD by the way.
Also, the pulley which is attached to the crank looks like it's "wobbling" on idle. Did I read somewhere that these have a rubber part to them which perish and causes this wobble?
Any help on these would be appreciated!
Is there a tensioner, and could it be the bearings? If so, what are these like to change? It's on a 1.9XUD by the way.
Also, the pulley which is attached to the crank looks like it's "wobbling" on idle. Did I read somewhere that these have a rubber part to them which perish and causes this wobble?
Any help on these would be appreciated!
2004 Berlingo Multispace HDI, 105000
Have you tried a new belt??
The trouble with a multi v belt is that sometimes they look fine when they are not! I have been caught out on this one loads of times. Usually the wear is due to heat from being too tight, a multi v belt can function without the need to be murder tight.
Spraying with WD40, not the best, as this stuff will react with the rubber of the belt, eventualy it will go soggy and orrible, the best tempory measure is to sprikle a little talcum powder on the belt, also makes it smell nice!!
Regards
Slim.
The trouble with a multi v belt is that sometimes they look fine when they are not! I have been caught out on this one loads of times. Usually the wear is due to heat from being too tight, a multi v belt can function without the need to be murder tight.
Spraying with WD40, not the best, as this stuff will react with the rubber of the belt, eventualy it will go soggy and orrible, the best tempory measure is to sprikle a little talcum powder on the belt, also makes it smell nice!!
Regards
Slim.
Later XUD engines have the 2 part crank pulley - with outer and inner bits bonded together with rubber. Our 94 ZX 1.9D has one so I would expect your Xantia to have one as well.
Naturally the 2 parts come unbonded with age. A way of checking if its not obvoius (and yours sounds as though it is) is to put a mark across the 2 bits (ie a radial line) with chalk or paint and see if the 2 parts move in relation to each other (ie line is stepped.) Not a bad idea to paint the line on a sound pulley - then its easy to eliminate when chasing noises.
Naturally the 2 parts come unbonded with age. A way of checking if its not obvoius (and yours sounds as though it is) is to put a mark across the 2 bits (ie a radial line) with chalk or paint and see if the 2 parts move in relation to each other (ie line is stepped.) Not a bad idea to paint the line on a sound pulley - then its easy to eliminate when chasing noises.
jeremy
Tip - get the right socket and lock the engine carefully.
Tale of woe here:
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... php?t=2160
Tale of woe here:
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... php?t=2160
jeremy
- uhn113x
- Posts: 1161
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- My Cars: 1981 Dyane - on road all year round.
1982 GSA Pallas - on road April - September.
1997 ZX 1.9D Dimension. - x 1
My ZX did this for months - OK when warmed up. It was a recent new belt, so I thought it just needed tightening.
It didn't.
A stethoscope (aka long screwdriver stick in ear'ole) revealed that the squeak was from the power steering pump.
A squirt of our favourite tipple behind the PS pulley when it was running and squealing cured it instantly, and it has stayed cured.
Must have been the shaft seal on the pump. Try this before going too far.
It didn't.
A stethoscope (aka long screwdriver stick in ear'ole) revealed that the squeak was from the power steering pump.
A squirt of our favourite tipple behind the PS pulley when it was running and squealing cured it instantly, and it has stayed cured.
Must have been the shaft seal on the pump. Try this before going too far.
Mike in West Yorks
1982 GSA Pallas
1982 Dyane
1997 ZX Dimension
1982 GSA Pallas
1982 Dyane
1997 ZX Dimension
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You can change the thing as a precaution - but its better to find out if its causing problems first. I should imagine the thing looks perished and has other tell tales like rust stains before it finally lets go.
To test - mark a line on inner and outer metal bits across the rubber and run it and see if they move.
To test - mark a line on inner and outer metal bits across the rubber and run it and see if they move.
jeremy
There must be a Worldwide plague on removing crankshaft holding bolts; this is about 5 in 3 days I've come across.
An old grease monkey told me a few years ago that there are some bolts used on cars these days that are both rattled on as well as being held by Loctite or similar and the only certain way to slacken them off is by using a rattle gun. Unfortunately, the "hobby" standard rattle gun will just bounce off them and it requires an electric hammer gun with a 3/4" drive to do it as someone over here discovered recently on an XM V6 after spending 2 fruitless days trying all kinds of things and eventually giving the rattler a go which shifted it in about 30 seconds.. Unfortunately, he managed to damage a sensor in the process of trying to remove it by hand which created other dramas, but that's another story.
To loosen if the rattle gun isn't an option, is to fit a nice tight fitting socket like an impact socket of 22mm to it attached to an extension and a breaker bar with an extension (piece of water pipe) attached so that it reaches the floor. Get someone to hang onto it nice and tightly and after removing the power supply to the coil, just hit the starter by using short bursts on the ignition key.
You'll find that should be as safe and sure a way to remove it that you'll find.
When refitting, again use a bit of Loctite on the thread and (in my case) just sit the extension arm of the socket at the opposite direction and simply "click" the key a couple of times.
Quite simple and you hardly get your hands dirty.
Be sure to draw a map of how the accessories belt goes before you take it off, as finding the correct route when refitting can be "fun."
Alan S
An old grease monkey told me a few years ago that there are some bolts used on cars these days that are both rattled on as well as being held by Loctite or similar and the only certain way to slacken them off is by using a rattle gun. Unfortunately, the "hobby" standard rattle gun will just bounce off them and it requires an electric hammer gun with a 3/4" drive to do it as someone over here discovered recently on an XM V6 after spending 2 fruitless days trying all kinds of things and eventually giving the rattler a go which shifted it in about 30 seconds.. Unfortunately, he managed to damage a sensor in the process of trying to remove it by hand which created other dramas, but that's another story.
To loosen if the rattle gun isn't an option, is to fit a nice tight fitting socket like an impact socket of 22mm to it attached to an extension and a breaker bar with an extension (piece of water pipe) attached so that it reaches the floor. Get someone to hang onto it nice and tightly and after removing the power supply to the coil, just hit the starter by using short bursts on the ignition key.
You'll find that should be as safe and sure a way to remove it that you'll find.
When refitting, again use a bit of Loctite on the thread and (in my case) just sit the extension arm of the socket at the opposite direction and simply "click" the key a couple of times.
Quite simple and you hardly get your hands dirty.
Be sure to draw a map of how the accessories belt goes before you take it off, as finding the correct route when refitting can be "fun."
Alan S
RIP Sept 19th 2008.
She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!
She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!
Hmm,alan s wrote:To loosen if the rattle gun isn't an option, is to fit a nice tight fitting socket like an impact socket of 22mm to it attached to an extension and a breaker bar with an extension (piece of water pipe) attached so that it reaches the floor. Get someone to hang onto it nice and tightly and after removing the power supply to the coil, just hit the starter by using short bursts on the ignition key.
You'll find that should be as safe and sure a way to remove it that you'll find.
When refitting, again use a bit of Loctite on the thread and (in my case) just sit the extension arm of the socket at the opposite direction and simply "click" the key a couple of times.
Unless I missed something here, I don't see how this is possible - the engine only turns one way with the starter, so how can you use the same starter trick to both undo and tighten the bolt
For what its worth on my Xantia I was able to undo the crankshaft pulley bolt with just a good quality 3/4 drive socket and a breaker bar, and someone to lock the flywheel with a screwdriver. Maybe I was lucky though... (after reading about how difficult it can sometimes be...)
Regards,
Simon
Simon
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
How do you figure that ?jeremy wrote:Simon - depends if the bar hits the ground ahead or behind the crankshaft bolt!
The engine turns clockwise, (from the right) so thats equivalent to the socket turning anti-clockwise, eg undoing...
How can this be used to tighten ?????
Regards,
Simon
Simon
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
Can't remember how I did it, but I did.
As regards removing without using mechanical means, I have a 3/4" socket set and a large breaker bar. I go 80 kgs and with an 8 foot extension I still couldn't budge it. The guy with the XM had 2 mechanics helping him and they were stumped, so if anyone loosens one manually, it would appear that it already had been loosened in the past and refitted.
Regardless, I think slackening it off enough to remove it is a bigger problem than refitting and the method I used works every time; the biggest rattle gun you're ever likely to see.
Alan S
As regards removing without using mechanical means, I have a 3/4" socket set and a large breaker bar. I go 80 kgs and with an 8 foot extension I still couldn't budge it. The guy with the XM had 2 mechanics helping him and they were stumped, so if anyone loosens one manually, it would appear that it already had been loosened in the past and refitted.
Regardless, I think slackening it off enough to remove it is a bigger problem than refitting and the method I used works every time; the biggest rattle gun you're ever likely to see.
Alan S
RIP Sept 19th 2008.
She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!
She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!
- CitroJim
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I've used this method many times with complete success four undoing a tight one. Never a problem and it works a treat.alan s wrote: To loosen if the rattle gun isn't an option, is to fit a nice tight fitting socket like an impact socket of 22mm to it attached to an extension and a breaker bar with an extension (piece of water pipe) attached so that it reaches the floor. Get someone to hang onto it nice and tightly and after removing the power supply to the coil, just hit the starter by using short bursts on the ignition key.
Be sure to draw a map of how the accessories belt goes before you take it off, as finding the correct route when refitting can be "fun."
Alan S
I only use this method when all other methods fail though. A last ditch. I always disconnect the stop solenoid though so there is no chance of the engine firing up. Now that would not be good
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...