zx squeal

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coppertop
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zx squeal

Post by coppertop »

1.9D non turbo when I set off for the first few hundred metres the car makes a horrific squealing noise. the belt is tight could this be the water pump? I'm going to change the cam belt shortly so I could change the water pump at the same time I just don't want to buy a water pump when theres nothing wrong with the one thats on. Or could it be the tensioner roller? which is more likely to go wrong?
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Post by CitroJim »

I'll bet a bob it's still the alternator belt causing it. They have a habit of breaking up but not really showing it. If you take it off you may see great chunks of the multiple "Vee" profiles missing. Take it off and run the engine for a short time without it. That'll prove where the noise is originating.

The belt also needs to be pretty tight too, much more so than a standard, old fashioned fan belt.

Other causes could be the alternator itself (worn, dry bearings) PAS pump (if you have one) or the clutch release bearing (unlikely).

The water Pump will not make this noise. They leak long before they catastrophically fail. They should be changed at every cambelt change regardless of their apparant condition.

Tensioner rollers whine rather than scream normally.
Jim

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Post by jeremy »

I agree with Jim. I fited a new one to our 1.9D when I changed the PAS pump recently and although I tightened it up to what seemed to be the correct tightness - it was still making small chirping noises at startup.

Its not very good for it but if you spray some silicon on the belt and the noise changes - you know that the fault is belt-related.

Incidentally the PAS pump started to make bearing rumble noises and when I went to look for the noise my task was made easy as there was fluid all over the belt and the fluid level had dropped for the first time ever. No squeals!
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Post by Gnerk »

My ZX aux. belt has always whinged at me - esp. on cold, damp nights when its necessary to run the lights rear screen deminster, etc.

The belt itself always looked in pretty good nick - the only reason I never changed it is that (twice now) I have gone to buy a new belt and found the one sold to me was a little shorter than the old one and I couldn't fit it.

Sorted the problem today (maybe temporarily) by taking off the belt and wiping thoroughly with white spirit, then refitting and retensioning a little more than usual. Squeal now gone.

That said, I also understand that the crank shaft pulley has a rubber 'shock aborber' ring incorporated into it. Can the bonding to this fail and cause slip?
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Post by jeremy »

Rubber bonding can and does fail. It can be checked by drawing or painting a line on the pulley face across the rubber and then seeing after a while if the 2 parts have moved in relation to each other. I must paint a white line on ours - then whenever I change the oil I can verify the thing is still in one piece!
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UserError
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ZX squeal

Post by UserError »

My 1.4i does the same.
Being a pessimist, I attributed cambelt or camshaft bearings. However, when I took the cambelt covers off, the belt is clearly in good nick.

Could be good news if it's the alternator belt, or even the alternator! - I'm still recovering from the trauma of replacing the cambelt/water pump on our Carina

I was on the verge of posting about this very subject.
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Jonathan
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coppertop
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Post by coppertop »

thanks for the answers fellas.
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Post by AX_Man »

Its definately that time of year, so many cars with squeals. When i had the problem before on the AX it was the alternator belt needing tightening. I think I need to do that again.
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UserError
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Not the alternator belt

Post by UserError »

Hi,
After being cheered by the previous posts, I took the alternator belt off - still nasty squeal.

trouble is there is only a relatively short time to diagnose the source before t warms up & disappears.

I am paranoid that it is the timing belt or worse the camshaft bearings. As these are in-line bored, what happens if these fail? How does one remedy this?
Many thanks
Jonathan
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jeremy
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Post by jeremy »

A search of this and other boards will show that camshaft bearing failure is unknown (unless there has been a collision between valves and pistons which usually breaks the camshaft and the bearing caps.)

If the noise was there with the alternator belt removed I'd remove the cambelt and examine all the idlers - and the waterpump. Water pump seems to leak before the bearings fail but there's always a first.

If you're worried about the cam bearings - remove the camshaft cover and make sure there's plenty of oil flowing around the head. Its fed through a drilling in the block and there's a gauze filter at the junction.

Has this engine got the belt driven vacuum pump? Is this OK - and for that matter if it has the direct drive vacuum pump - is this OK.
jeremy
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