Xantia 1.9 TD Suspension
Moderator: RichardW
Xantia 1.9 TD Suspension
I have replaced the 2 front spheres over wheels. all was fine until I took our caravan 2000 miles round France car towed and drove great. Now the rear of the car drops when I park and although it comes up to height when engine started the ride is very HARD and bumpy.
Can you tell me what needs doing to the old girl now please
Can you tell me what needs doing to the old girl now please
Sam de Lessups from Coventry West Midlands England
Xantia 1.9 TD 1995 185000 this old girl went to sleep.
Picasso Exclusive 1.6 HDi 2005 29500
Xantia 1.9 TD 1995 185000 this old girl went to sleep.
Picasso Exclusive 1.6 HDi 2005 29500
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Very hard and bumpy just at the back? Could be those spheres need replacing as well, and the centre one if its hydractive. Theres nothing else except a mechanical failure that will cause a hard ride. Try 'bouncing' each corner of the car with the engine running, you should have about 4" - 6" of movement, stiffer at the front, if you havn't, replace the appropriate spheres.
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As well its worth noting that there is a rear accumulator sphere. id say for the hassle its worth doing this at the same time as it saves another trip under the car, especially with the weather only getting worse May not be needed just yet but think of it as knowing when they have all been done and if the rear spheres have gone the accumulator may have been working a bit harder sometimes..
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- Moderating Team
- Posts: 11577
- Joined: 02 Apr 2005, 16:11
- Location: Charmouth,Dorset
- My Cars: Currently:
C5 X7 VTR + Satnav Hdi estate Silver
C5 X7 VTR + Hdi Estate 2008 Red
In the past: 3, CX td Safaris and about 7, XM td estates. Lovely cars. - x 1206
Mezuk - I think rear centre spheres and anti sink are different things, never having had 'anti sink' I am not familier with them, but the center rear sphere is very similar to an accumulator sphere in that it has no restriction in it, that's why the suspension is soft in the 'electro valve' open mode, and thats also why if you only change the outer ones and the centre one is flat it makes very little difference to the ride.
Just to clarify a couple of points here -
The Hydractive centre spheres do indeed have no damping valves in the spheres themselves, they're built like accumulator spheres - in fact the rear hydractive centre sphere is EXACTLY like the main accumulator but gassed to 50 bars instead of 62. (Fitting an accumulator sphere which has dropped to 50 bars is a common trick apparently, at least in countries where new spheres are expensive)
However there are TWO damping valves mounted in the control block the sphere is screwed to - one going to each side, and they are exactly the same construction as the damping valves normally found in spheres, so its not fair to say that there is no damping for the centre sphere - its just in an external location.
(And it's also true to say these centrally located damper valves are tuned a lot softer than the outer strut sphere damper valves both in terms of the bypass hole diameter and the opening threshold of the washer valves)
As for the anti-sink sphere - it too is like an accumulator sphere with no damper valve in it, but it also has a pipe union fitting in the end. Another name for the anti-sink sphere would be "rear brake accumulator".
The anti-sink system works by isolating the leaky system elements from the suspension when the main system pressure drops below the suspension pressure when the car has stood for a while - in the case of the rear suspension the leaky elements are the height corrector and brake doseur valve.
Unfortunately isolating the doseur valve means the rear suspension pressure can no longer act as a source of emergency braking if the main system pressure that runs the front brakes dissapears - so the anti-sink sphere acts like an accumulator that supplies pressure to operate the rear brakes after the anti-sink valve has closed.
If the anti-sink sphere is completely flat (punctured diaphram for example) there would be little outward sign that anything was wrong, (perhaps the rear going down a bit sooner) but in the unlikely event of the main system pressure failing completely, the rear brakes would ALSO fail at the same time as the front brakes.
For that reason alone it's a good idea not to forget the anti-sink sphere just because it "doesn't seem to do anything"....
Because the anti-sink sphere is mounted centrally at the rear, while the "hydractive centre sphere" is actually mounted relatively far to the right, refering to the "rear centre sphere" is a bit ambiguous, and people often mix up the two...
Regards,
Simon
The Hydractive centre spheres do indeed have no damping valves in the spheres themselves, they're built like accumulator spheres - in fact the rear hydractive centre sphere is EXACTLY like the main accumulator but gassed to 50 bars instead of 62. (Fitting an accumulator sphere which has dropped to 50 bars is a common trick apparently, at least in countries where new spheres are expensive)
However there are TWO damping valves mounted in the control block the sphere is screwed to - one going to each side, and they are exactly the same construction as the damping valves normally found in spheres, so its not fair to say that there is no damping for the centre sphere - its just in an external location.
(And it's also true to say these centrally located damper valves are tuned a lot softer than the outer strut sphere damper valves both in terms of the bypass hole diameter and the opening threshold of the washer valves)
As for the anti-sink sphere - it too is like an accumulator sphere with no damper valve in it, but it also has a pipe union fitting in the end. Another name for the anti-sink sphere would be "rear brake accumulator".
The anti-sink system works by isolating the leaky system elements from the suspension when the main system pressure drops below the suspension pressure when the car has stood for a while - in the case of the rear suspension the leaky elements are the height corrector and brake doseur valve.
Unfortunately isolating the doseur valve means the rear suspension pressure can no longer act as a source of emergency braking if the main system pressure that runs the front brakes dissapears - so the anti-sink sphere acts like an accumulator that supplies pressure to operate the rear brakes after the anti-sink valve has closed.
If the anti-sink sphere is completely flat (punctured diaphram for example) there would be little outward sign that anything was wrong, (perhaps the rear going down a bit sooner) but in the unlikely event of the main system pressure failing completely, the rear brakes would ALSO fail at the same time as the front brakes.
For that reason alone it's a good idea not to forget the anti-sink sphere just because it "doesn't seem to do anything"....
Because the anti-sink sphere is mounted centrally at the rear, while the "hydractive centre sphere" is actually mounted relatively far to the right, refering to the "rear centre sphere" is a bit ambiguous, and people often mix up the two...
Regards,
Simon
Last edited by Mandrake on 24 Aug 2006, 11:16, edited 1 time in total.
Simon
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
Im confused.Peter.N. wrote:I stand corrected My XMs have all only had one extra sphere in addition to the outer ones so by default I called it the 'centre sphere'.
So when you refer to your XM's 'centre sphere' are you referring to the anti-sink sphere or the radiators accumulator sphere......OR something 'extra'
Volkswagen Golf 59' 1.6TD S
Theres a couple of ways really, the one i can think of is.
Put the car on highest setting, this makes everything rock solid, then try and budge the spheres a little (with a chisel and hammer or some brute force or even with a big pair of clamps) once you have managed to turn it a little.
Then go through the correct procedure for removal....car on low, depressurised and spheres removed.
Put the car on highest setting, this makes everything rock solid, then try and budge the spheres a little (with a chisel and hammer or some brute force or even with a big pair of clamps) once you have managed to turn it a little.
Then go through the correct procedure for removal....car on low, depressurised and spheres removed.
Volkswagen Golf 59' 1.6TD S