Hope you can help me.
My 1.9 BX diesel has an intermittent starting problem - most of the time the car will start perfectly (not bad for an H reg with 186000 on the clock). Every so often - about once every couple of weeks or so - the starter will not turn at all. Yesterday the car took a few turns of the ignition to get the car started at work, I drove it the 35 miles home and went to do some shopping. When I came out of the supermarket the car would not start. I tried to get the car started by constantly turning the ignition, to no avail. After 20 minutes I decided to phone the AA. Whilst on the phone to them the engine turned over on the ignition, I preheated the glowplugs and the car started perfectly, turning over at a very fast rate. Today the car started perfectly.
I have cleaned the spade lead going to the starter but not the lead held in place by the bolt, and checked the tightness of the leads at the battery terminal
Any ideas as to what could be causing this to happen?
Diesel Starting Problem
Moderator: RichardW
Diesel Starting Problem
BX 19 Meteor Diesel 1990
BX 19 TRS 1987
BX 17TZD Estate 1992
XM 2.0SI Mark 1 1990
In the words of OGRI "Stuff Everything - I've always got my bike" (or should that be Bike & Citroens?)
BX 19 TRS 1987
BX 17TZD Estate 1992
XM 2.0SI Mark 1 1990
In the words of OGRI "Stuff Everything - I've always got my bike" (or should that be Bike & Citroens?)
It's possibly the ignition switch playing up if the connections to the starter motor are o.k.- heavy bunches of keys hanging from them break them up internally, it's something they used to mention in buyers guides when the cars were newish and mine had a replacement switch fitted before I bought it according to the bills that came with it.
It's easy enough to make sure it's not the starter motor- next time it happens run a jump lead from battery + direct to the big starter terminal, and anothr wire from the battery + to the spade connector on the starter solenoid. If the starter spins then it's o.k.
My money's on the ignition switch.
It's easy enough to make sure it's not the starter motor- next time it happens run a jump lead from battery + direct to the big starter terminal, and anothr wire from the battery + to the spade connector on the starter solenoid. If the starter spins then it's o.k.
My money's on the ignition switch.
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You may have a couple of problems.
First the starter: Does this either work properly or not at all? By this is the operation unreliable - but when it does work it runs at full speed? - If so its probably the ignition switch or possibly the solenoid. The way to check is to jump the starter - connect the smaller switch connection direct to the battery + terminal and if it functions perfectly its the ignition switch.
Is your car after about 1991 with the later type of glow plug relay?
Revving high after starting suggests to me that you have a Roto-Diesel injection pump with the added extra of an air leak in the supply side (NOT the leakoff pipes for this pump - it just leaks and smells from them!)
First the starter: Does this either work properly or not at all? By this is the operation unreliable - but when it does work it runs at full speed? - If so its probably the ignition switch or possibly the solenoid. The way to check is to jump the starter - connect the smaller switch connection direct to the battery + terminal and if it functions perfectly its the ignition switch.
Is your car after about 1991 with the later type of glow plug relay?
Revving high after starting suggests to me that you have a Roto-Diesel injection pump with the added extra of an air leak in the supply side (NOT the leakoff pipes for this pump - it just leaks and smells from them!)
jeremy
Had this lots of times on a BX.
What the problem usualy is, as said before is the ignition switch.
The ignition is still supplying 12 volts to the starter but there aint enough amps to energize the thing.
The cheapest fix is to get yourself a standard relay and fit this into the starter wiring, 1 x terminal direct from battery, 1 x terminal to earth, 1 x terminal to existing start wire and 1 x terminal to the starter.
Doing this will mean that when you turn the key, the starting curcuit will energize the relay and the relay will power up the starter direct from the battery, all this happens at the same time with no delays, in fact when done, you wont even notice that it is there.
Regards
Slim
What the problem usualy is, as said before is the ignition switch.
The ignition is still supplying 12 volts to the starter but there aint enough amps to energize the thing.
The cheapest fix is to get yourself a standard relay and fit this into the starter wiring, 1 x terminal direct from battery, 1 x terminal to earth, 1 x terminal to existing start wire and 1 x terminal to the starter.
Doing this will mean that when you turn the key, the starting curcuit will energize the relay and the relay will power up the starter direct from the battery, all this happens at the same time with no delays, in fact when done, you wont even notice that it is there.
Regards
Slim
Thanks for the replies.
I am assuming that the problem is with the ignition switch as, when the starter motor doesn't turn, all electrics are working fine (dashboard lights etc). The only noise that can be heard is the preheater system making the usual noise that can be heard when the starter motor is working fine. When the ignition is turned past the preheating stage there is no noise at all - I would have thought that if there was a problem with the solenoid, I would have heard it trying to engage and turn the starter motor but, as there is no noise, the problem is a lack of power reaching the solenoid. Is it the final part of the turn that supplies power to the solenoid? Should I try replacing the ignition switch unit with one from another BX I have?
I am assuming that the problem is with the ignition switch as, when the starter motor doesn't turn, all electrics are working fine (dashboard lights etc). The only noise that can be heard is the preheater system making the usual noise that can be heard when the starter motor is working fine. When the ignition is turned past the preheating stage there is no noise at all - I would have thought that if there was a problem with the solenoid, I would have heard it trying to engage and turn the starter motor but, as there is no noise, the problem is a lack of power reaching the solenoid. Is it the final part of the turn that supplies power to the solenoid? Should I try replacing the ignition switch unit with one from another BX I have?
BX 19 Meteor Diesel 1990
BX 19 TRS 1987
BX 17TZD Estate 1992
XM 2.0SI Mark 1 1990
In the words of OGRI "Stuff Everything - I've always got my bike" (or should that be Bike & Citroens?)
BX 19 TRS 1987
BX 17TZD Estate 1992
XM 2.0SI Mark 1 1990
In the words of OGRI "Stuff Everything - I've always got my bike" (or should that be Bike & Citroens?)
Yes that sounds a good place to start. You have to change something so rather than buying a new starter try the ignition switch first. You can keep your existing ignition key barrel by just changing over the switch and cables only.
Sometimes, when the switch contacts are failing if you rock the key up and down while holding it in the starting position the contacts will make and turn the starter.
Another alternative is to fit a push button starter switch.
Sometimes, when the switch contacts are failing if you rock the key up and down while holding it in the starting position the contacts will make and turn the starter.
Another alternative is to fit a push button starter switch.
BX GTI 8v-290k - RIP
BX GTI 8v-96k +AC
BX TD Estate 74k
BX TD 187k +AC
BX GTI 8v-96k +AC
BX TD Estate 74k
BX TD 187k +AC
First get a length of wire and bare the ends, then connect 1 x end to the solenoid and touch the other on pos battery terminal, does the starter turn?? If yes then you cant have any trouble there.
Next check the feed to the solenoid, do you get 12 volts?? if yes then you will have a low power to the solenoid ie plenty of volts but not enough amps.
If the above is true, then wire in a relay as I said before, it only takes half hour, much easier then buggering about swapping ignitions.
Regards
Slim
Next check the feed to the solenoid, do you get 12 volts?? if yes then you will have a low power to the solenoid ie plenty of volts but not enough amps.
If the above is true, then wire in a relay as I said before, it only takes half hour, much easier then buggering about swapping ignitions.
Regards
Slim