Xantia Drop Links

This is the Forum for all your Citroen Technical Questions, Problems or Advice.

Moderator: RichardW

KP
Posts: 3980
Joined: 10 Jul 2006, 12:11
Location: Warrington
My Cars:
x 27

Post by KP »

Kenny where do you get them from for £5 as thats super cheap pricing for them :)

My project tank may need some soon as a well as a rear accum sphere as well :(
User avatar
Mandrake
Posts: 8618
Joined: 10 Apr 2005, 17:23
Location: North Lanarkshire, UK
My Cars:
x 666

Post by Mandrake »

Hi Alan,

What method did you use to apply the grease ? Did you do it in situ or remove the droplinks to do so ?

Regards,
Simon
Simon

1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White

2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
alan s
RIP 2010
Posts: 2542
Joined: 26 Jan 2001, 15:53
Location: Australia
My Cars:
x 6

Post by alan s »

I remove them, tap them to loosen them, remove the dust cover carefully and work the grease in by rotating the ball joint until it feels all nice and smooth.
I can also ad to at any time before they bind up again by using a hypodermic attached to a grease nipple but given the UK climate against ours, I don't know how successful that would be over there. No problems here as we're in the middle of a 10 year drought, but somewhere that you would be ploughing through water and snow, particlarly salted stuff may leave it open for contamination and hence premature failure.


Alan S
RIP Sept 19th 2008.

She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!
User avatar
Mandrake
Posts: 8618
Joined: 10 Apr 2005, 17:23
Location: North Lanarkshire, UK
My Cars:
x 666

Post by Mandrake »

Hi Alan,

When I changed a droplink recently I tried to get some extra grease into it but found it quite difficult working it into the joint with the boot right off, and I was thinking of removing the boot clip on the shaft end of the joint and using a hypodermic syringe to inject the grease up under the edge of the boot into the joint, but unfortunately the needle I chose was too small for grease to easily squeeze through.... :lol:

I might have another go at it some time, as I wonder if binding balljoints could be part of the intermitant harsh ride problems my car has... a couple of the joints seemed awfully tight, you could hardly tilt them by hand even though there was grease in there already...should they be relatively easy to move by hand, or is a very tight joint a sign of lack of lubrication rather than a sign that the joint has no play ?

Regards,
Simon
Last edited by Mandrake on 21 Sep 2006, 08:41, edited 1 time in total.
Simon

1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White

2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
mezuk04
Posts: 1125
Joined: 03 Sep 2004, 19:15
Location: Nottinghamshire, England
My Cars:

Post by mezuk04 »

KP wrote: My project tank may need some soon as a well as a rear accum sphere as well :(
When you say 'read accum sphere' do you mean the rear anti-sink sphere? I wondered about this last time but am still confused.

If so, is the anti-sink sphere basically the same as an Accumulator sphere?
Volkswagen Golf 59' 1.6TD S :(
KP
Posts: 3980
Joined: 10 Jul 2006, 12:11
Location: Warrington
My Cars:
x 27

Post by KP »

Yip thats the one Mezuk :)

Basically when i start cranking the engine the rear drops.. not when i park up but when i actually come back and crank the engne over and then it rises within about 3 seconds...

Also dips a little under braking sometimes i think but hard to notice from the drivers seat really..

Also front accumulator is prob shot as well as the pump is clicking a lot more than it should so that has to be done before it tries to kill my pump but ill do the frond one first incase its just affecting the back end AS sphere and resolves both issues :)
User avatar
davek-uk
Posts: 447
Joined: 29 Sep 2003, 21:01
Location: GL, UK
My Cars:

Post by davek-uk »

Having freely moving drop links has made a huge difference to the ride quality. I guess this just shows how stiff joints can restrict the free flowing motion of the suspension (that's cars and legs!)

To grease them I initially tried to inject CV grease under the gaiters. This didn't work very well due to tight gaiters. In the end I removed the strap, doubled the gaiters back and applied the grease that way. It's a bit fiddly and mucky but well worth it.

As I have said there was a small amount of grease in the joints to start with, but even so they soon freed up properly after I had finished.

The last set I put on lasted 18k miles (7 month or so). They must have started drying out and creaking before 6 months. By the time I changed them they were worn and clattering like mad.

I've had the car nearly three years now and I have to say the ride now is the best I've had. I can only assume that the old drop links (the original set and the duff set) were dried and not free to move. The difference really is amazing.
Pug Rifter long (20) - 41mpg - Gutsy for a 1.5!
Xantia 1.9 TD Temp.2 Break (97) - 208K@42mpg - Resting again.
Berlingo Multispace 1.6 16v (51) - 184K@36mpg - My shed! Still runs 15° retarded...
User avatar
davek-uk
Posts: 447
Joined: 29 Sep 2003, 21:01
Location: GL, UK
My Cars:

Post by davek-uk »

Having freely moving drop links has made a huge difference to the ride quality. I guess this just shows how stiff joints can restrict the free flowing motion of the suspension (that's cars and legs!)

To grease them I initially tried to inject CV grease under the gaiters. This didn't work very well due to tight gaiters. In the end I removed the strap, doubled the gaiters back and applied the grease that way. It's a bit fiddly and mucky but well worth it.

As I have said there was a small amount of grease in the joints to start with, but even so they soon freed up properly after I had finished.

The last set I put on lasted 18k miles (7 month or so). They must have started drying out and creaking before 6 months. By the time I changed them they were worn and clattering like mad.

I've had the car nearly three years now and I have to say the ride now is the best I've had. I can only assume that the old drop links (the original set and the duff set) were dried and not free to move. The difference really is amazing.
Pug Rifter long (20) - 41mpg - Gutsy for a 1.5!
Xantia 1.9 TD Temp.2 Break (97) - 208K@42mpg - Resting again.
Berlingo Multispace 1.6 16v (51) - 184K@36mpg - My shed! Still runs 15° retarded...
Post Reply