How easy is it *REALLY* to change XUD timing belt?

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LeeDJC
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How easy is it *REALLY* to change XUD timing belt?

Post by LeeDJC »

After doing all the fluids oils etc on my car today (it had no service history when I bought it) I now want to change the timing belt.

I've never done a timing belt before, tbh I've never really messed about with engines too much. Always left that to the mechanic. I've always done all the other non engine stuff to my cars though.

Would it just be easier to send it into the garage for this, or is it worth a go?
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bxbodger
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Post by bxbodger »

Not hard at all- the toughest bit is usually getting the engine pulley off, the rest is relatively run of the mill nut'n'bolt work, albeit in a bit of a tight space-follow haynes, the description is pretty good, with pictures of its layout.

You need some means of locking the engine and cam and diesel pump in the TDC position- Haynes, again, shows how to do it without a kit but I have a locking kit I bought for a few quid from the local spares shop, and you also need the big socket for the bottom pulley nut, I can't remember the size at the moment though!!

A trolley jack is handy as well for moving the engine up and down to make access easier- you could do it just as easily with a scissor or bottle jack but the trolley jack makes it quicker.
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Post by davethewheel »

the only problem i had when changing the belt was getting the timing dowel into the flywheel as i was by myself, i could have done with another pair of hands :lol:
it's a straight forward enough job just remember to double check all the timing dowels are in the correct place, and you will need a decent breaker bar as the crank pulley nut can be tight to remove :)
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Post by DaveW »

There are some useful threads here :

http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... 38&start=0

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Post by Peter.N. »

You can make a simple tool that makes locking the flywheel easier out of a wire coathanger or something a bit thicker if you have it. Bend it into almost a starting handle shape, if you dont remember those : 6" from the end bend at 45 degrees in another 6" bend again in the opposite direction. You should be able to fiddle this down behind the starter motor and into the locking hole. Once you have located the hole, turn the engine slowly until it drops into the flywheel.
Last edited by Peter.N. on 09 Jul 2006, 09:09, edited 3 times in total.
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Post by steelcityuk »

When I did the cambelt on my 405 I used a piece of bent threaded bar for locking up the flywheel, it's cheap and easy to bend.

Check and double check before starting her up.

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Post by Stewart(oily) »

I usually end up taking the starter motor off in order to lock the flywheel properly DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CUT CORNERS HERE and often manage to wangle the belt off past the crank pulley without removing it, put all of your locking bolts in BEFORE releasing the tensioner, make sure all of the slack in the new belt is in the rear run, once fitted and tensioned turn the engine over by hand two full rotations and refit your timing bolts to check, any problems take it off and try again, do not use force to turn things at any point.
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Post by AndersDK »

Can only add to the wisdom above : you need a 22mm socket for the pulley bolt - standard threaded (ccw to unwind). Crack it with hot engine only - as then the Locktite is a bit softer 8)
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Post by dnsey »

If you make timing marks on the pulleys and the old belt, then CAREFULLY (with double-checking) transfer them to the new belt, there's no real need to lock the engine up at all. It's really a matter of what you find easiest.
The crankshaft pulley can be a tight fit on the shaft, and is fairly fragile, so a suitable puller is a useful thing to have by you.
LeeDJC
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Post by LeeDJC »

Thanks for the help guys. Lots of good tips :)

One question tho, is it worth changing the tensioner pulleys as well? I see you can get a kit with the pulleys and belt together.

If so, is that pretty straightforward while I'm there, or is it a complete pig of a job?
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Post by deian »

on most cars it's a standard procedure to do the pulleys as well, so yes it's a good idea to do the pulleys, and the water pump while your down there as well.
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Post by andmcit »

The tensioners do fail and allow the whole lot to go ape. They're available from GSF for quite reasonable money and can help give better feeling of confidence on the engine's longevity. As you're there will everything else undone and you wont want to go and do it all again in the near future think about these and a water pump!!

Andrew
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