Cleaning & Relubing Height Correctors

LeeDJC · Post by **LeeDJC** » 07 Jul 2006, 22:32

I've got to get under the car to get a few bits done tomorrow, and thought while I'm there I'd clean and re-lube the height correctors.

I was going to use a general purpose thinners type engine cleaner to do this, but what would the best lube/protector be for these?

I was thinking waxoyl, but would that foul them up?

Cheers

deian · Post by **deian** » 07 Jul 2006, 22:38

WD40 is what all recommend here

Post by **Peter.N.** » 07 Jul 2006, 22:39

The problem with waxoil is that it goes hard when its dried out and cold, doesn't matter on rigid metal surfaces but on anything that moves it is likely to chip off. I would think ordinary grease would be the best thing, the stickier the better. I think you can get waterproof grease. As previous post, clean and loosen up with WD40 first.

LeeDJC · Post by **LeeDJC** » 07 Jul 2006, 22:42

Peter.N. wrote:The problem with waxoil is that it goes hard when its dried out and cold, doesn't matter on rigid metal surfaces but on anything that moves it is likely to chip off. I would think ordinary grease would be the best thing, the stickier the better. I think you can get waterproof grease. As previous post, clean and loosen up with WD40 first.

So best thing is really to clean and then apply grease with a good stiff brush and repeat every 6 months or so?

LeeDJC · Post by **LeeDJC** » 07 Jul 2006, 22:44

deian wrote:WD40 is what all recommend here

I can see that WD40 will help loosen seized/sticky correctors, but not so good as a long term protection in my view.

Mandrake · Post by **Mandrake** » 07 Jul 2006, 23:12

When I first read the topic I thought you were going to be stripping the height correctors and cleaning them, but apparently not.

I should point out that cleaning the *outside* of a height corrector will do nothing as all the moving parts are inside, and its sealed

You can lubricate the spring/linkage assembly which is connected to the height corrector, but the height corrector itself (the small drum with the pipes going into it) can only be cleaned by stripping it down, and cleaning any grit/gunk out with petrol and compressed air, then reassembling it.

Regards,
Simon

Post by **Peter.N.** » 07 Jul 2006, 23:22

The problem with anything oily or greasy is that dust will stick to it and absorb it, thats why Waxoil is better for rustproofing. Oil is better inside enclosed surfaces because it 'creeps' and gets into the seams which Waxoil doesn't do once its dried out, except perhaps in very hot weather.

Going back a few years most moving parts on a car had to be greased every 1000 miles or so, then the invented rubber gaiters / boots which protect the grease from the elements so that ball joints and things last almost indefinitly now. This is ideally what you want to do with your height control linkage, but unless you want to go into manufacturing, yes, what you suggest is the best course of action.

You can get 'sticky' oil, chain saw oil for instance, if you could get grease like that it would last much longer. The trick people used to do with leaf springs, was to grease them and the bind them with canvas or something similar, but that might be a bit difficult with your job.

f00lzz · Post by **f00lzz** » 08 Jul 2006, 03:10

What about spray grease...it seems to have a 'carrier' which penetrates and then evaporates leaving the grease behind. I use it on my door hinges etc.

Post by **Peter.N.** » 08 Jul 2006, 08:22

Yes, anything that leaves behind a non stiky residue, copper grease, graphite grease or similar is OK but none of it lasts forever.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 08 Jul 2006, 08:51

the best thing to do with any of the hight corecter externale linkage is soak it with engine oil the slap loads of grease all over it,this way the oil works straight away and the grease works its way in slowly,also the grease is a barrier which stops moisture ingress,
regards malcolm

Stewart(oily) · Post by **Stewart(oily)** » 08 Jul 2006, 12:35

I make up a lovely mixture of chainsaw oil, grease, paraffin and engine oil then apply it to the linkages with a paintbrush, the idea is that when applied its rather runny but once the paraffin evaporates it thickens up, motorcycle ghain lube aerosol is good too, if the height corrector itself is seized then petrol is the recommended solvent for cleaning it out.
Stewart

Post by **Peter.N.** » 08 Jul 2006, 15:42

Sounds good!

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » 08 Jul 2006, 16:19

f00lzz wrote:What about spray grease..

Yes! this is what I used on my late Xantia and the previous BX, and every couple of years or so cleaning them down with gunk, before respraying. What I want to know is, should I treat my C5 the same way?