has anyone had experiance in transplanting a CX saffari bodyshell from one car to another,is so what sort of job is it,would it be easyer than converting a 2.2 petrol to a 2.5TD.as i have a 2.5TD and posibly a 2.2 petrol,the 2.5TD has had the tin worm let loose on the unnder side and it will be a mamoth task to weld her up
regards malcolm
CX saffari bodyshell
Moderator: RichardW
Hi Malcolm -
Because the CX has a complete under-subframe separate to the bodyshell - and either is not self-supported - its kind of a complex job to say the least.
You must relieve the complete chassis as much as possible for weight - removing seats, doors etc.
The drivetrain, suspension and exhaust are not connected to the bodyshell - only to the subframe.
This means you "only" need to remove part of the hydraulic piping, electric cabling for the height motor, all electrics and control cabling from engine to chassis. The radiator and coolant hoses must be removed. Check the fuel lines & piping. May be something to remove here too.
You will also need to remove the front bumper and carpeting for access to the subframe bolts.
Then you support the subframe with wooden blocks - easy task as the subframe is perfectly flat on the underside all over. Be sure the subframe is well and squarely supported both front and rear.
The bodyshell can now be hoisted using padded timber through the door openings (provided all subframe bolts are removed).
Refitting is the revers...
I'm perfectly aware you're not exactly a novice in this kind of job - but anyway :
Good luck - x-ing fingers for you 8)
Because the CX has a complete under-subframe separate to the bodyshell - and either is not self-supported - its kind of a complex job to say the least.
You must relieve the complete chassis as much as possible for weight - removing seats, doors etc.
The drivetrain, suspension and exhaust are not connected to the bodyshell - only to the subframe.
This means you "only" need to remove part of the hydraulic piping, electric cabling for the height motor, all electrics and control cabling from engine to chassis. The radiator and coolant hoses must be removed. Check the fuel lines & piping. May be something to remove here too.
You will also need to remove the front bumper and carpeting for access to the subframe bolts.
Then you support the subframe with wooden blocks - easy task as the subframe is perfectly flat on the underside all over. Be sure the subframe is well and squarely supported both front and rear.
The bodyshell can now be hoisted using padded timber through the door openings (provided all subframe bolts are removed).
Refitting is the revers...
I'm perfectly aware you're not exactly a novice in this kind of job - but anyway :
Good luck - x-ing fingers for you 8)
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
The ONLY big deal with the engine swap is repositioning of the top enginr porkchop mounting from the incorrect position of the 2.2 to that for the 2.5 Diesel.
You REALLY don't want to go down the path of chassis swapping - it's not eaxctly as simple or strong as a 2CV's and that's a pain to do on a car a fraction of the complexity. The CX chssis, whilst stong as part of the monocoque ISN'T sufficiently strong enough to support ANYTHING attached to it and will collapse at the bulkhead part.
If you're going to have to remove both engines ANYWAY you'll be well on the way to the engine conversion - buzz the welds holding the engine mounting onto the cross member and reposition it by careful measurement! I've done a conversion of a 2.5 Tri AUTO to a 2.5 DTR and a 2.2Ri to a 2.5 normally aspirated with a pal and seen it use fractions of the wiring for a start!!
Frankly for all the effort, it'd be easier although messier to get metal welded back into the shell - unless it's so far gone it resembles one sitting in the sea for years...
Andrew
You REALLY don't want to go down the path of chassis swapping - it's not eaxctly as simple or strong as a 2CV's and that's a pain to do on a car a fraction of the complexity. The CX chssis, whilst stong as part of the monocoque ISN'T sufficiently strong enough to support ANYTHING attached to it and will collapse at the bulkhead part.
If you're going to have to remove both engines ANYWAY you'll be well on the way to the engine conversion - buzz the welds holding the engine mounting onto the cross member and reposition it by careful measurement! I've done a conversion of a 2.5 Tri AUTO to a 2.5 DTR and a 2.2Ri to a 2.5 normally aspirated with a pal and seen it use fractions of the wiring for a start!!
Frankly for all the effort, it'd be easier although messier to get metal welded back into the shell - unless it's so far gone it resembles one sitting in the sea for years...
Andrew
i thought the CX chassis is basicly two subframes kept in line by the two front to back members,which i agree these two members (beams) are flimsy whilst the two subframes are substantial,also you would not have two remove either of the engines to carry out a body change,as in the factory all of the running gear subframes and engines/box are asembeld then the body lower into place,i did not realise any of the engine mounting points where differant,the main problem i could see was suficiant lifting gear and space to carry it out
regards malcolm
regards malcolm
I WOULDN'T leave the engine on the subframe! It'll lever the whole front subframe backwards and TOTALLY knacker the longerons - once that's happened you've lost the alignment of the whole lot and it'll all be scrap! If you don't believe me fine - but I've seen it happen to a Cx that was being scrapped anyway...
And it'll be a real pain to support the chassis to stop it bending AND moving the bodyshell from over the top off it!!
In the factory workshop manual they show the bodyshell being lifted on a sling up and off the chassis with stiffening bars to move the chassis around with - these run from the base of the front cross member right the whole length of the chassis and are bolted securely onto the rear cross tube - these triangular profile bars aren't lightweight neither!
Andrew
And it'll be a real pain to support the chassis to stop it bending AND moving the bodyshell from over the top off it!!
In the factory workshop manual they show the bodyshell being lifted on a sling up and off the chassis with stiffening bars to move the chassis around with - these run from the base of the front cross member right the whole length of the chassis and are bolted securely onto the rear cross tube - these triangular profile bars aren't lightweight neither!
Andrew
Andrewandmcit wrote:I WOULDN'T leave the engine on the subframe! It'll lever the whole front subframe backwards and TOTALLY knacker the longerons - once that's happened you've lost the alignment of the whole lot and it'll all be scrap! If you don't believe me fine - but I've seen it happen to a Cx that was being scrapped anyway...
And it'll be a real pain to support the chassis to stop it bending AND moving the bodyshell from over the top off it!!
In the factory workshop manual they show the bodyshell being lifted on a sling up and off the chassis with stiffening bars to move the chassis around with - these run from the base of the front cross member right the whole length of the chassis and are bolted securely onto the rear cross tube - these triangular profile bars aren't lightweight neither!
Andrew
its not a case of not beliveing you,the hole reason for me staring this topic was to get input,and other peoples knoledge and views,besides its unlikly it will ever happen,iwas just fishing
regards malcolm