Xantia/Xsara rewind calipers

Post by **smashymike** » 24 Apr 2006, 19:43

Building up to the weekend and intend to do front discs/pads on mine and the missus car. Any tips? I'm ok with doing them but someone mentioned rewinding caliper before refitting new pads and that there's a tool to make life easier. Would this gizmo be any use for front calipers http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DRAPER-3-8-SQUARE ... dZViewItem - i know it says its for rear calipers but i'm sure that someone mentioned it was good for the fronts as well. Anyone able to confirm? Also, i've checked Xant front discs and thee's a torx fixing screw missing, must've been left off by ATS guys last time around! Any idea what i can do to replace this (95N TD SX). And any general disc/pad tips, what needs greased/oiled and where, would be greatly appreciated, specially for the Xsara (1.4i, is it the same procedure?) I'm confident but jst need that final push ... cheers guys!

Homer · Post by **Homer** » 24 Apr 2006, 20:14

I never needed a special tool for winding calipers back, just used a couple of long screwdrivers, one to twist, one to put pressure on the piston.

As for the missing screw, is this one of the screws holding the disk to the hub? If so it's not really needed since the wheel bolts hold the disk in place once the wheel is on.

BonceChops · Post by **BonceChops** » 24 Apr 2006, 20:40

Anyone know the front piston diameter and the width of the slot so I can make a wind back tool. I have been meaning to do it for ages.

Post by **smashymike** » 25 Apr 2006, 15:26

Looks like th Xsara at least doesn't need a 'rewind' tool so that's good news. Checked last night and the caliper is a 'Teves', no mention of having to rewind, looks as though the pads just clip onto piston?? Xantia is a different beast, bendix caliper, defo needs a rewind tool. Anyone able to say what needs greasing/oiling up on the Xant to be safe?

Post by **smashymike** » 25 Apr 2006, 23:02

Well i'm stuck! Decided to have a quick look again tonite and managed to remove the two screws holding discs in place (or at least free them up in time for the weekend) but how do the caliper 'guide pins' come out on this type of caliper? Haynes says 'unscrew' after removing dust caps but they pins are well inside the dust cap if you see what i mean. What fitting are they? And you're working from the back to the front, or am i missing something? Anyone any ideas on what the screw head type is? Maybe a trip to Kwikfit if no takers ... cheers!

Post by **smashymike** » 26 Apr 2006, 19:34

No takers on removing calip guide pins from ATE/TEves caliper? I need to know what the proceudre is as Haynes is less than bl**dy helpful, typical!

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » 27 Apr 2006, 14:54

If they are the same as the ATE on Pug 306, you'll need a 7mm hex key.

Post by **smashymike** » 27 Apr 2006, 17:02

Cheers for that ... i'm going to giveit a go over the weekend. Any ideas on what i should be greasing/oiling and where on a disc/pad swap? Obviously i've no idea and will just clean up generally but it would be nice to have some idea. The Haynes BOL just gives no info at all ...

Post by **smashymike** » 30 Apr 2006, 15:57

Well, that's that done, new discs and pads. Does anyone know what setting the wheels should be torqued to? Car's a Xsara Mk1 on citroen 14" alloys. Just wondering .... i normally just welly them on but this time they were a tad difficult to remove. Would coppergreses on the hubs be any good at helping remove them in future. I'm sure i've read somwhere that copper and alu don't mix v. well ...

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » 30 Apr 2006, 16:56

Normally steel wheels are torqued to 65lbs/ft and alloys to 70. Opinion is divided on whether hub nuts should be greased. Alko (who make the majority of caravan chassis in the country) say definately that no grease should be used. However I put the question on Andyspares forum a couple of years ago and most members seemed to use coppaslip on them.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 30 Apr 2006, 16:57

next time you need a new supply of non-stick grease - purchase the alu-variant instead. Its of much more general use with the widespread use of alu alloys these days.
Be sure the bolts are just barely touched with the paste. Any surplus grease will end up on the brakes as pr Murphy's laws

Alternatively grease the bolts, wind on the bolts - then unwind and wipe them off.
The paste goes on the threads - ONLY
The dry joint bolthead to wheel is part of the bolt securing together with the torque setting.

Bolts torque 90Nm/65LbfFt - which is approx 12% more than standard steel wheels.