Xantia Suspension & Brakes
Moderator: RichardW
Xantia Suspension & Brakes
Hi there.
Not only am I a new member to the forum but also a relatively new citroen convert. I have a 97 Xantia 1.9TD LX that has had a sphere change due to solid suspension. Fronts and rear spheres plus front accumalator were purchased from Andys and fitted by my local non Citroen garage. The ride is greatly improved but not quite the 'magic carpet' that everyone raves about. Still seems a bit firm over bumps and the once ferocious brake pedal now a bit spongy and ineffective.
can any one advise please.
have not let this put me off Citroens just got a 94 1.9TD SX for the wife.(fair swap I thought)
Not only am I a new member to the forum but also a relatively new citroen convert. I have a 97 Xantia 1.9TD LX that has had a sphere change due to solid suspension. Fronts and rear spheres plus front accumalator were purchased from Andys and fitted by my local non Citroen garage. The ride is greatly improved but not quite the 'magic carpet' that everyone raves about. Still seems a bit firm over bumps and the once ferocious brake pedal now a bit spongy and ineffective.
can any one advise please.
have not let this put me off Citroens just got a 94 1.9TD SX for the wife.(fair swap I thought)
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Did you bleed the brakes when you changed the spheres ?
<img src=icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle>
Mat.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Job done by garage not me how do I go about bleeding brakes?
Did you bleed the brakes when you changed the spheres ?
<img src=icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle>
Mat.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Job done by garage not me how do I go about bleeding brakes?
Put the front on axle stands with the wheels off.
Using an assistant, or a plank of wood, press the brake pedal down all the way with the engine running.
Take the protective cap off the bleed nipple, located on the inner face of the front brake / hub assembly.
Using a spanner / socket ( can't remember size, approx 6mm ), open the bleed screw slightly, collecting any LHM. Keep open until the lhm that flows is free from bubbles.
Close and replace the cap.
KEEPING THE BRAKES ON - repeat the other side.
DO NOT put the flushed LHM back in the tank. Dispose of it in an environmentally friendly way.
Edited by - mbunting on 06 Dec 2002 16:20:20
Using an assistant, or a plank of wood, press the brake pedal down all the way with the engine running.
Take the protective cap off the bleed nipple, located on the inner face of the front brake / hub assembly.
Using a spanner / socket ( can't remember size, approx 6mm ), open the bleed screw slightly, collecting any LHM. Keep open until the lhm that flows is free from bubbles.
Close and replace the cap.
KEEPING THE BRAKES ON - repeat the other side.
DO NOT put the flushed LHM back in the tank. Dispose of it in an environmentally friendly way.
Edited by - mbunting on 06 Dec 2002 16:20:20
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Bled the brakes, seemed to be a tiny bit of air in l/h side. Pedal now back at top and good feel but brakes still a bit un responsive.Have to use a fair amount of pressure to stop quickly almost feels as if pads are not gripping discs. Pads replaced about 3 months ago used Mintex pads
LHM is very bright green so hopefully that should be o.k. depressurised and repressurised accumalator about 5 times employing suspension aerobics between each discharge and suspension may be a little better but still seems a bit choppy over the larger gas board repairs in the road surface. I'll keep on trying it to see if it gets any better but if anyone has any more ideas please let me know.
Thanks to everyone for the help you have given me
Bled the brakes, seemed to be a tiny bit of air in l/h side. Pedal now back at top and good feel but brakes still a bit un responsive.Have to use a fair amount of pressure to stop quickly almost feels as if pads are not gripping discs. Pads replaced about 3 months ago used Mintex pads
LHM is very bright green so hopefully that should be o.k. depressurised and repressurised accumalator about 5 times employing suspension aerobics between each discharge and suspension may be a little better but still seems a bit choppy over the larger gas board repairs in the road surface. I'll keep on trying it to see if it gets any better but if anyone has any more ideas please let me know.
Thanks to everyone for the help you have given me
Do rememeber that the back brakes won't really be effective unless there is a load in the back / boot. A full car gives the brakes a good bite ( they are linked to the rear suspension circuit ).
I would be interested to know the condition of your discs on the front. I know mine are pretty uneaven, and resemble tramlines in the road on some parts. However, my continuous improvement program is running slow, so the fronts will have to wait until warmer weather !
I'm going to our works party now, so I won't be back on here until tomorrow night ( possibly late morning ).
Mat.
I would be interested to know the condition of your discs on the front. I know mine are pretty uneaven, and resemble tramlines in the road on some parts. However, my continuous improvement program is running slow, so the fronts will have to wait until warmer weather !
I'm going to our works party now, so I won't be back on here until tomorrow night ( possibly late morning ).
Mat.
Checked front discs not grooved but do look a bit worn and have a bit of a lip on outer edge. Might be worth replacing but will have to wait until after xmas now (spent out). Have run car around this afternoon and seems to be an improvement in the brakes. As a point of interest just fitted my new Philips Vision bulbs to dip beam headlights. What a fantastic improvement well worth £19.99.
Thanks again for all your help. Off out myself now to see tribute band to Beautiful South/House Martins called The Beautiful South Martins so it will probably be late morning before my head is back together to look at this again.
Cheers Mike
Thanks again for all your help. Off out myself now to see tribute band to Beautiful South/House Martins called The Beautiful South Martins so it will probably be late morning before my head is back together to look at this again.
Cheers Mike
With ineffective brakes on a Cit I have often found that the rear calipers aren't gripping due to so many being driven without a full load too often. May be worth removing pads & freeing up the rear cylinders & see what happens.................when you're all feeling better of course.<img src=icon_smile_dead.gif border=0 align=middle> <img src=icon_smile_blackeye.gif border=0 align=middle> <img src=icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle>
Alan S
Alan S
Thanks Alan looks like a job for this afternoon weather permitting.
Must say though they do seem to be improving all the time. Perhaps I should lock the mother in law in the boot for a couple of weeks she's a heavy load. Trouble is I would wonder what the annoying noises were from the back of the car.
Cheers for now
Mike
Must say though they do seem to be improving all the time. Perhaps I should lock the mother in law in the boot for a couple of weeks she's a heavy load. Trouble is I would wonder what the annoying noises were from the back of the car.
Cheers for now
Mike
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Citroen brakes are really TOO good. When used gently they tend to polish the pads and discs, making them feel ineffective. Get some weight in the back then go and drive it hard and give the brakes a good stomping on a few times. Seems to roughen the surfaces up and make then grip much better (mind your head on the windscreen!).
Richard
Richard