dash lights

Jshodgson · Post by **Jshodgson** » 05 Apr 2006, 20:41

I got by with 70% of my instrument pan lights working with my old Xantia. My new one has none of the dash lights working except for the main headlights light. I'm not sure this will be satisfactory driving in the dark. Any ideas that don't involve removing the steering wheel and air bag?

KevMayer · Post by **KevMayer** » 05 Apr 2006, 21:19

Er...try thumping the top of the dash !

stevenlizuk · Post by **stevenlizuk** » 05 Apr 2006, 22:11

Hello J

You can remove the upper steering cowl without removing the steering wheel by cutting it in the middle at the bottom.
Then simply splay it and wiggle it out of place, the stalks are below it so they don't interfere.
If you do it carefully you wont break it.

Cheers

Steve

dnsey · Post by **dnsey** » 05 Apr 2006, 22:13

You'll need to fix it before your next MOT anyway - the main beam warning light is required.
EDIT: Sorry, just realised that's the one that IS OK!

np · Post by np » 05 Apr 2006, 23:21

Its very easy to remove the steering wheel & airbag.I did my dash lights the other week.Its about 20 mins to take the steering wheel off & remove the dash clocks.10 mins of that is to allow some time after disconecting the battery before working on the airbag.If you want a full run down,let me know.I was put off touching the steering wheel/airbag,but having done it it is very easy.

Jshodgson · Post by **Jshodgson** » 06 Apr 2006, 13:12

thanks Neil

a run down would be great. Realisticly I won't be able to tackle it till Easter weekend. Do I need to order any parts form GSF or similar???

James

np · Post by np » 06 Apr 2006, 19:33

If its just the dash bulbs,then no parts should be needed.It may be silly

,but the dash light dimmer under the steering wheel isn`t turned down?I only ask because this was the case the other week on here.
Anyway,1st,disconect the battery & allow to sit for 10 mins or so.Make sure you have the radio code.
On the rear of the steering wheel,there will be 1 torx screw on each side that hold the airbag on.You will see the holes for them,but not the screws,as they have a flexy type cover on them.Just push your torx driver in,have a root around you will soon find them.No need to remove them as the covers prevent that.
Once you have undone them,carefully pull the a/bag out slightly from the wheel.On the rear there is the orange conector.Carefully prise it out of the a/bag,then remove the a/bag to a safe place,putting it face down.Treat it like an unexploded bomb,because thats what it is!
You will then see the stereo control printed circuit board,pull that out from the wheel & disconect the conetor going to the PCB.You may need a small flat blade screw driver to disconect it.
Then you can undo the steering wheel nut,which is a 19mm i think which WILL be tight.The wheel will need a bit of tap/hit from behind to free it(carefull it dont go flying into your face!).It will then simply pull off.Although you will need to feed the stereo & a/bag conectors though as you remove the wheel.
Then remove the upper & lower columb covers(a few torx screws under neath) & disconect the dash light dimmer from the lower cover as you remove it.You will have to release the steering wheel adjust lever to slide the lower cover off from the handle.
Then open the fuse box cover,at the top there will be a screw that needs removing on the left side,thats for the switch facia along the bottom of the dash.There will be another few screws that you will see along the bottom that the upper s/columb cover was hiding.Then that will pull out/up,disconecting the wires for you switches when its pulled out a bit.
You the have to remove the dash torx screws,2 along the bottom i think,& 1 in the middle at the top,which is inset into the soft dashboard finish its self.A small screw driver is needed to prise this top screw lug out,then at the same time pull the dash unit/clocks foward.There is no speedo conection to fiddle around with on the rear,as all the wires(4 coloured blocks)are on the front of the dash clocks at the bottom.There should be enough free play in the wires to be able to turn the dash clocks forward to do the bulbs,if not just unplug them.
Once i did my bulbs,i conected the battery back to test them before i put every thing back together.Although you will need to re conect the dash dimmer,as unconected the lights will not work.The a/bag light will be on,but only because that is all missing!

Once your happy,put it all back together.
When its all done,reconect the battery,but switch the ignition on from out side of the car,away from the a/bag.JUST

in case it goes off!!!
That bit is from the Haynes book
Hopefully it wont,as mine was ok.Better to be safe than sorry

.
Another tip,is before you remove the steering wheel,but after you have undone the nut,is to put a mark across the steering columb & wheel to aid in fitting it back roughly in line to how it was before.A touch up stick,marker pen or tipex.
It may seem a bit of a job,but once you get going,it IS really easy.
Its a shame because we were going to your area for Easter with our caravan.But i`m working in Lands end as the tides are low that weekend.(digging out a harbour you see).I`m back this week as the tides are high.Although if you want,we could meet somewhere off the A30 in the middle & i`ll do it all for you.I dont mind at all.Let me know before sunday,as thats when i`m going back down.
Anyway,that must be my longest post

.

Jshodgson · Post by **Jshodgson** » 07 Apr 2006, 10:22

Thank you for the offer Neil. I think I'll try it myself as work is hectic at present and I can't commit to a time without possibly letting you down. But a really nice offer thanks.

Do you suggest I replace all the bulbs?

Also which ones do I need? I've looked on GSF and onlt found 3 dash bulbs -
N95932 BULB 12V 1,2W 5MM WEDGE DASHBOARD BULB 12V 1.2W CAPLESS (286)
N95934 BULB 12V 5W 10MM WEDGE SIDELAMP/DASHBOARD BULB 12V 5W CAPLESS
N95935 BULB 12V 3W 10MM WEDGE DASH BULB 12V BULB 12V 3W CAPLESS

Are these teh one's I need? If so how many of each?

Thanks again.

James

Post by **RichardW** » 07 Apr 2006, 10:53

Tip: to avoid breaking your teeth and wrecking the wires to the air bag / stereo controls, slacken the steering wheel nut, but leave it on the shaft. Now free the steering wheel from the splines - the nut will stop it flying off. If necessary, you can pull on the wheel and hit the steering column (gently!) with a soft hammer to free the wheel.

np · Post by np » 07 Apr 2006, 21:30

Good tip that Richard,will remember that for next time.
James,not sure about the bulbs,although i think they are 1.2W.They are the bulbs with built in holders,I.E you have to replace the whole bulb & holder.I`m sure they are all the same wattage.I got a load from the scrapy when i got my airbag conector the other week.I just replaced the bulbs that were blown.Although if your going to buy new ones,you may as well do the lot.Although there is a lot of bulbs to do.Depends how much the bulbs cost i supose.

PowerLee · Post by **PowerLee** » 07 Apr 2006, 21:46

RichardW wrote:Tip: to avoid breaking your teeth and wrecking the wires to the air bag / stereo controls, slacken the steering wheel nut, but leave it on the shaft. Now free the steering wheel from the splines - the nut will stop it flying off. If necessary, you can pull on the wheel and hit the steering column (gently!) with a soft hammer to free the wheel.

I saw this happen once with a young lad with a Nova steering wheel.

Two of us told him to put the nut back on but he didnt listen.

After 5 minutes of trying the steering wheel came off, Broke his nose & chipped a tooth