98 xsara sx td(blue smoke)

[fivelighters]

hi everyone. right where do i start my car the same as up top is smoking like the clappers lol,i have been told by a couple of people thats its the injectors that are leaking so the fuel is driping in when it should be sprayed in.the car is running nearly A1 except when at low speed about 30-45mph (say 3rd-4th&5th gears with no foot on the gas)it starts to shudder like as if u where in to low a gear its doing my bean box in. i would be very very greatfull for anyones help cheers lads &(ladies) five ps im going to put a dump valve in this car any ideas thanx

[Peter.N.]

We need a bit more information. Where is the smoke coming from, does it smoke as soon as you start it or when it gets hot, does it sound as though its firing on all cylinders when ticking over?

[JohnTurbo]

I just did a module on reciprocating engines....diesels fire when fuel is injected under a high pressure. Its that injection that fires the cylinder, rather than a spark from a petrol engine. I'd be very surprised if the injector was dripping...and certainly if it is i'd not think that cylinder would fire at all. How rough does it run?

[AndersDK]

Well ...

Dripping injector or not. The fact is that it can not keep tight between each injection cycle - and then fuel is seeping out. This fuel seeping out can only end up one place : in the cylinder.
What's more : as some of the fuel in the injector pipe from pump to injector is then lost between injection cycles - you then consequently have a fuel quantity loss during the injection cycle. Meaning the affected cylinder will produce a little less power.
This certainly causes rough running.
The seeping fuel will rarely burn in the combustion cycle - but end up as smoke (pollution).

Note that the injector in fact is not an injector. It is more like a spring-loaded non-return valve - the spring force constituing the injection pressure needed to open the injector. Any kind of a valve or tap may start leak at some point in its service life. Reasons could be wear (material migrating) - foreign matters deposits (carbon) - or simple material fatigue (crackings).

Lets get back to the subject : blue smoke from a '98 TD.
I'd say we should focus on the colour of the smoke as this is the best symptom to go for.
Blue smoke is an indicator of burnt engine oil (lubricator). Meaning somewhere on the engines suction (inlet) side there is oil getting into the cylinders getting burnt in the combustion cycle.
A '98 engine would rarely be worn to the point where piston rings should be suspected.
A leaking turbo cold side (inlet) oil seal could be the problem - but is rare.

A very common problem however is a build up of condensated oil in all the inlet air ducting and intercooler - from the oil fumes venting system.
This could also point to a problem with the oil fume hosing causing pressurised crankcase ventilation.
At times a dirty/clogged air inlet filter will show up as blue smoke - because of an increased air suction (vacuum) on the fuming system.
This is the simple problem to first look for

[fivelighters]

how comes the car judders as if its running out of fuel at low speed and it hasnt lost any power and its not burning no oil as iv been checking it for 2 months.the car runs well its been well serviced good mpg its got 81000 miles on clock 34000 of them done in the last 14 months with a service done 3 times in that period.i was going to get a computer on it next week at citroen untill i found this forum on the net last nite and found it very interesting as iv fixed a couple of minor things myself and saved a pound or two cheers, five.

[fivelighters]

[quote="AndersDK"]Well ...

ooo by the way andersdk would that make the car judder

[bxbodger]

Are you definately sure its blue and not whitey-grey?

[fivelighters]

Are you definately sure its blue and not whitey-grey?

cheers bxbodger for the reply its definately blue its near the same as the car colour for its blue. while were on the subject this is only a suggestion if the car was to have to much oil in it say a pint would that make it smoke and judder at low speed

[jeremy]

Too much oil in the sump can wreck your engine - even causing it to sieze! - as BMC found out with their 1800's. What happens is that at the correct level the oil lies clear of the crankshaft but if its overfilled it may well cover the crankshaft and gets beaten about as the engine runns. In extreme cases the oil can foam - and foam doesn't make a very good lubricant! Co-incidentally the 1800 had an engine with a stroke virtually the same as a Citroen diesel!

Only a pint?

[fivelighters]

well guys its fixed yee haaaaaaaaaa just got the injectors back and put in this morning and hey presto no jerking at slow speed/low revs and as for the blue smoke u were right Anders DK it was the build up of condensated oil in the inlet air ducking and intercooler from the oil fumes venting system nice one.The car is running like a dream now thankz to u all a very happy fivelighters . ps now for the dump valve.... is the zx td the same under the hood? (as i have a step by step email from a guy who put 1 in his zx td )chow for now. 8) 8) 8)

[AndersDK]

Dump valve ?
- on a TD ?
What good could that possibly do ?

There is already a waste gate on a TD - which IS a dump valve by function. I.e. it simply opens and dumps the turbo pressure out in the blue - if the pressure gets too high.
That is to protect the turbo against suicide spinning itself to death.

Note that a turbodiesel still works like a diesel - which is entirely different from a turbopetrol or petrol.
If you over-fuel a diesel, it will INSTANTLY produce black sooth and the engine will start braking as it looses power immediately. It feels like you suddenly are towing all the cars behind - except you cant see it for the black smoke

[jeremy]

Is this what you are looking for?

http://www.fletcherswebshop.co.uk/defau ... age=120221

I'm sure there are similar devices that aren't so expensive.

[fivelighters]

[fastandfurryous]

It's actually completely impossible to fit a dump-valve to a TD engine.

A petrol engine dump valve is used to prevent the compressor from going into stall on the over-run. This is caused by the throttle closing, vacuum building up between the throttle and the compressor, and pressure building up between the compressor and the intake manifold. Since the engine is in over-run there is no power available from the turbine side of the turbo, and the difference in pressure over the compressor causes the turbo to slow down massively, or possibly even stop.

The dump valve is activated by the vacuum that the throttle creates, opening a valve on the "pressure" side of the compressor, dumping the excess pressure and preventing the turbo from stalling.

On a TD engine, there is no throttle, hence no vacuum, minimal compressor stall, and without vacuum, you have no way of activating a dump valve.

[fivelighters]

Fitting a Dump Valve To A
Peugeot 306 1.9TD
This guide if for educational use only, in no way do we accept the use or misuse of this information, and accept no liability for damage to yourself any third party or property, as well as the accuracy of this information. *Just to keep us safe*
• Firstly in the guide we will cover where the main components are brought from, we are aware of other guides that use parts that ‘will do’ however we ourselves were doing it for customers so where other bodge in a 4mm T-Piece and tighten it up a bit tighter we would prefer to use a 8mm with a reducer, these do cost a little more but were taking a few pounds for a professional job!
• Secondly we will cover the fitment of a boost gauge, these are an essential bit of kit in our opinion, we always recommend them. They will inform you of the turbo performance and will also enable you to adapt your driving styles for both a more economical one, or a more performance based one. Not to mention they look good. Boost gauges are also used extensively in the tuning of a Diesel engine, when achieving the perfect levels of boost and fuel.
• Thirdly we will cover the fitment of a dump valve; we have photos and a good accurate guide for you.
We suggest you read through the information, make sure you understand it, before attempting any modifications! We recommend that if you don’t feel comfortable performing any of these then you take it to a specialist such as the Derv Doctor who will supply and fit a dump valve for £265+vat. If you do feel confident we believe that most people will be successful DIY fit in a couple of hours.
Components Listings
The Solenoid, this is the subject of much debate, many people say take them off a Sabb 9000 in your local scrap yard (how many of these have you seen in a scrap yard? Or a Mazda 323?
Why take them from another car, when Peugeot themselves use them on their EGR systems, on late 306’s most 406’s etc. So into Peugeot you go.
1. Electro Valve (Solenoid) 00001628CQ is the part number, costing £12.07 + Vat
2. An 8mm T-Piece, we like the ones from LMA Distribution, costing £2.13 part number LMA303, you can order them direct of via your local Halfords.
3. A reducer for the 8mm T-Piece, we use a right angle windscreen washer connector from Halfords, you will find that these will be a tight fit into the 8mm t-piece and can be made even more secure by being glued in with super glue.
4. The silicone hose that runs between the dump valve, solenoid and the T-Piece this is also available from LMA Distribution part number LMA 194/blue or red and is priced around £5
5. The bleed pipe to connect the dump valve and solenoid up also available from LMA is LMA450/BE or RD (for colour) for the 3mm or LMA451/BE or RD for the 4mm. Priced again around the £3 – 5
6. A micro switch to control the solenoid, this can be brought from most places including Maplins.
7. You will need around 2m of automotive cable and various spade connectors to connect onto the solenoid switch and a couple of ring connectors to connect onto the earth and live.
8. The main T-Piece we personally used a 44mm T-Piece available from baileys as this is a perfect fit, however a 40mm T-Piece would suffice such as the one from LMA.
9. The dump valve, we use the baileys DV 26 which ranges from around £60 to £90 and come in a range of colours including Polished silver, anodised blue, red, purple, green, gold and black. However there are other cheaper dump valves around, we would recommend a twin piston type that is rated to at least 2 BAR.
Fitting A Boost Gauge
A boost gauge can supply you with vital information, we always fit one to a car before it is modified, this is so that we can record the boost in the cars standard state. Once the car has had a dump valve we can then use this to determine weather or not there are any leaks in the system and also make sure it is performing as well.
You will need several things to fit a boost gauge to your car:
1. A Gauge these range from around £25 up to £100’s of pound, we find that the more expensive gauges tend to have a smoother action with no bounce and are more accurate, but for most of our customers a cheap ones fills all their needs. You will need to get one that can accommodate the boost your car runs, as standard a car will run 0.9Bar however some tunes cars run more towards 2.0Bar so a bigger gauge is required. If you intend to tune to car buy one that will accommodate this.
2. A 8mm T-Piece from LMA LMA303 and the right angle windscreen washer connector from Halfords. The right angled glued into the 8mm T-Piece!
3. Around 3m of boost pipe depending on where you are going to position the gauge.
4. A Pillar mount pod if required, these are available from RGM Moulding and again via Halfords.
The Guide:
1. We recommend you start in the car and work your way back into the engine, so find a suitable place to mount your boost gauge, mount it securely things to consider, if your dial has a illumination it needs to be wired onto a illumination wire, these run throughout your dash and are generally a thin orange wire (test it first with a circuit tester they cost £3 and are always wise), you will also need a earth, this can be picked up from the back of the dash again at any earth point. Also the boost pipe needs to travel to the engine bay without kinks, plan your route carefully and lead the pipe into the engine bay.
So attach the pipe onto the back of the gauge, and feed it through the dash and into the engine bay and down to the fuel pump.
2. Next thing to do is fit the T-piece connection to the boost compensator pipe leading from the front centre of the intercooler to the fuel pump. The pipe is generally quite thick and tough so a sharp knife will be required to cut it:
Insert our made T-Piece into the black pipe either side going onto the 8mm T-Piece, use jubilee clips to tighten the pipes up to prevent the pipe popping off. The pipe we ran into the engine bay can now be pushed onto the windscreen connector we glued in, a cable tie or small jubilee clip can be used to secure it, we are now finished under the bonnet I would recommend cable tying the pipe up to keep it neat and tidy.
3. We should now have a pipe running from the t-piece through the bulk head and up to our boost gauge in the car, it should have no kinks and when you accelerate it should have the following results:
When you accelerate hard the boost gauge should move up to 0.8-1.0 bar (11-14.5 psi), on a standard car, this will be the maximum boost so you may have to accelerate quite hard to achieve this. If this is not gained and the turbo is kicking in make sure you check all connections for leaks. The turbo normally comes in around the 2000 – 23000 mark.
You should now have a fully functioning boost gauge.
Fitting A Dump Valve
Dump valves are one of the most popular mods for a diesel engine at the moment, in this guide we are going to focus on fitting a dump valve to a Peugeot 306 1.9TD (this excludes the newer HDI’s).
The idea behind fitting a dump valve to a diesel is that there is no vacuum created in the manifold so this has to be replicated, the only way to do this (bar fitting another vacuum pump to the car) is to take it from the existing vacuum pump that supplies services such as the breaks! Which we are going to show you in this guide.
1. We need to get the car somewhere dry and warm where we can work on it comfortably, with plenty of light so we can see what were doing and we need to make sure we have everything we need ready. Including a sharp knife or junior hacksaw to cut the main intercooler piping. Make sure you read this guide first, know exactly what your doing and have all the appropriate tools available to do the job! Make sure you know what you doing as we will be using systems that supply you brakes so everything has to be checked and double checked!
2. We need to cut the pipe that leads into the intercooler from the turbo, this is located on the left hand side of the intercooler, you need to make sure you measure up correctly to ensure the t-piece will fit in without fouling things like the engine lifting eye. We find that the best way to decide where to cut is to put the 25mm Dump Valve hose along side the hose, so that it fits nicely and mark this onto the pipe, so that you can then cut into the pipe to ensure that the dump valve will be positioned in the right place.
And here we can see the T-Piece inserted, it clears the lifting eye, and the silicone hose has been cut long enough for the dump valve to clear the cam belt covers. You can also see that we have used good strong jubilee clips to secure all pipe work and have tightened these up tight.
3. Were now going to fit the solenoid, the closer the solenoid to the dump valve the better as the shorter the pipes the less air has to be moved by the vacuum pump to operate the dump valve thus shortening the reaction time. A good place to mount it is on a spare lug next to the throttle cable on the side of the left hand side strut, the following image shows this, it can also be seen in the picture above with the blue silicone hose running over the top of it:
With the dump valve in place as above and with the solenoid also in place it time to start connecting it all up, we need to take a feed from the vacuum pump, there is a mettle pipe running across the top of your intercooler this carries the vacuum, just before it entered into the brake servo it turned into a rubber pipe, this is where we are going to insert our 8mm T-Piece and reducer, in the next picture I have removed this pipe from the car to show it you this generally isn’t required, it’s a push to seal connection into the brake servo (if in doubt look it up in the Haynes manual to help with removal) :
It is critical that all these connections are sealed tightly and that there is no chance of them leaking or popping off, remember this system also runs you breaks!
4. Electrically wiring up the solenoid.
The 12v supply varies from car to car, on most we take it from the fuel shut of solenoid on the fuel pump, other people we have hard take it from the alternator, onto the EGR solenoid several places. The idea is to put it onto a feed that will be permanent when the engine is running but when the engine is turned off the feed should die.
We have included the following diagram to show you how to wire up the solenoid electrically:
The above diagram shows the solenoid and the switch wired together, the solenoid is as if you were looking at it from the under side.
We earth the switch on the front left hand side wing like the following, this comes off the switch.
5. Were getting their now, we have the switch to mount and the solenoid to connect up to our vacuum pump and to the dump valve itself.
The connection that comes straight up out of the solenoid needs to be connected to the reducer that we have inserted into our pipe between the metal vacuum line and the brake servo. We secure this pipe with either a good strong jubilee clip or a cable tie.
The connection that comes out at right angles needs to be connected to the top of the dump valve itself. The third connection on the solenoid that goes straight out of the bottom can be connected into the same line as where we connect our boost gauge earlier on, however this isn’t necessary, if you have problems with the actual dump valve leaking this is probably the first thing I would try.
6. Mounting the switch can be the trickiest part of the fit, we need to mount it on the fuel pump so that when the accelerator isn’t being pressed the switch is made thus opening the dump valve, and when you accelerate the switch isn’t made thus closing the dump valve off. Every situation is different so its up to you where and how you mount the switch, we normally use a piece of aluminium to get it into the right position.
Above is a common mounting method that we use, however the chances are that your fuel pump will be slightly different and will require it to be mounted slightly different.
To test if the valve is working or not is simple, with the engine running and looking under the bonnet, the dump valve should be open, if you move the throttle off idle a bit you will be able to see the dump valve close.
Again I cannot stress how important it is to make sure that all connections are tight, in theory they are a vacuum so they won’t just blow off, but your brakes are important so take no chances!!
When you first move the car it is very important to make sure everything works properly including brakes and systems before taking it onto a highway.
If all is well when you accelerate enough to achieve boost and lift off the dump valve will release, if it does it to late or to early you will have to adjust the switch position to suite yourself. Another thing that is worth noting is that on some fuel pumps there is a dampener that will stop the throttle falling back quickly and thus the dump valve will release late. This can be altered or removed as we often do ourselves but again it’s up to you.
Tuning a Peugeot 306 Turbo-Diesel (mechanical type)
I will in no way be held responsible for ANYTHING you do to your own vehicle; this guide is for your information only.
Engine The modifications I have carried out are only applicable to the pre-HDI engine car, i.e. the engines with the Bosch or Lucas Mechanical fuel injection pumps.
When I drove the standard car I felt the mid-range power was good, but the throttle response under 2000 rpm was tardy, turbo lag noticeable and the top end rev range was restrictive.
Injection Pump and Fuelling The majority of the improvements to the power band are achieved by increasing the maximum fuel setting and the boost compensator fuelling. The standard car like all diesels is set-up very lean. The procedure to adjust the fuelling is not difficult, but requires many careful and small incremental changes, and many test drives until the optimum settings are found. The limit of the performance is related to either the amount a smoke produced or/and the reduced fuel economy that can be tolerated. The smoking is un-burnt diesel, which is mainly seen when the engine is laboured off-boost i.e. under 2000 rpm.
The tuning technique I've used is derived from many sources, you will not find any information on this in the Haynes manual as it's not a maintenance procedure, and the text will state 'recommended only by an authorised dealer'. Don't be put off, it's not that difficult.
Boost compensator fuelling The maximum fuel setting has the greatest effect on performance controlling about 80% of fuel delivery, for this reason I would adjust the boost compensator fuelling first. The procedure to increase the boost compensator fuelling is similar on both the Lucas and Bosch pumps. The boost compensator unit can be recognised by a brass coloured diagram assembly connected to the intercooler by a vacuum hose. Unscrew the external 14mm lock nut and turn the adjuster anti-clockwise. The adjustment range is about 1.5 to 2.5 turns (adjustment can be made in half turns). The setting is not so critical; running the car rich from the compensator does not make a great performance difference.
Maximum Fuel Settings The maximum fuel setting is located in different positions for the Lucas and Bosch pumps. On the Lucas pump a large plastic plug is found on the front of the pump. This must be unscrewed and the pump will empty its contents of diesel. Put a plastic bag over the alternator to protect it. Using a small mirror look inside the pump and you may see a hole with a recessed socket head bolt. I think it's about a 5mm size Allen key. If this can not be
seen put the engine in gear and rock the car. You will see a cylinder assembly rotate in the pump. It will need to rotate about 180 degrees to reveal the maximum fuel screw. The screw will need to be turned clockwise. To access the screw you will need to insert the long part of the Allen key. Don't use a ball type driver, as the ball may break-off in the pump. The screw to quite tight and so a spanner will need to be used on the end of the key. The range of adjustment is a relative 20 to 40 degrees (40 degrees is rich, make adjustments in about 10 degree increments). Replace the plug; prime the pump and test drive. Look for evidence of smoke off-boost. Repeat the procedure until the desired performance, smoke level and economy compromise is reached.
With the Bosch pump the procedure is much easier. The maximum fuel screw is located on the top right side of the pump. It will have a tamper proof fitting on it, which will need to be removed. This screw is adjusted clockwise up to about 90 degrees (again use about 10 to 20 degree increments).
Maximum Engine Speed Another simple modification I did was to raise the maximum engine speed to about 5,200rpm (See the Haynes manual). Although I don't rev the engine above 5,000 rpm it has allowed the engine to rev freely to 5,000 rpm, as the standard rev limiter affects the engine at about 4,600 rpm onwards. The improvement is seen when accelerating through the gears.
Idle Speed I increased my idle speed to about 950 rpm. The engine seems more comfortable at this speed, and it helps the engine pick-up quicker from stationary starts.
Turbo charger and Boost My car is fitted with the Garret T2. The standard boost is 14 to 15 PSI on full load @ 3000 rpm. I have increased the boost to the maximum I believe the T2 can produce on this engine, by shortening the waste-gate adjustment arm. I've heard of some people bending the arm to increase the boost if the threads are ceased, I leave that decision to your self? The boost I run is about 17.5 PSI @ 3000 rpm under full load, peaking a about 19 - 20 PSI @ 4000 rpm. I've heard of higher, but my gauge is calibrated. My car also develops standard boost @ 2500 rpm, about a 1000 rpm lower than standard. I recommend raising the boost if possible, but the car must at least have the standard boost.
The KKK type turbo has a locking nut and adjuster on the end of it. The locking nut I believe is a 13mm or 14mm nut and the adjuster needs to be turned about 1 and 1/2 turns clockwise to turn up to about 1.3bar. The adjuster is turned using a 2.5mm Allen key. A 2.0mm key will fit but it will not turn the adjuster properly.
The performance gains above 15 PSI boost diminish quite quickly as the charge temperature raises rapidly. However, if the car produces less than 15PSI boost the increase in boost to standard will yield a relatively higher gain in performance than above. I would not recommend raising the boost above say 18 PSI (peak boost) unless up rated inter cooling was used.
Remember, the boost pressures and fuelling is not independent on a diesel engine. The waste gate is a final mechanical pressure blow-off, if the fuelling is the limiting factor, additional boost will not be gained. Hence, when tuning the car check the boost as the fuel increments are made. On my car I measure the boost from a 'T' piece I have inserted into the injection pump compensator vacuum hose.
The new HDI engine has been fitted with the Garret GT15 turbo which is smaller and more efficient than the T2 it replaced. On driving the new HDI car the engine has excellent low speed pick-up, revved smoothly and is much quieter. However, this turbo being smaller will limit the top-end potential of the engine. The GT15 is designed around 110BHP maximum on a diesel engine, as the bigger T2 it replaced will flow up to about 130BHP.
Summary of the Tuning procedure
1. Check the boost; it must be at least 15PSI @ 3000 rpm under full load. 2. Adjust boost compensation fuelling on the pump - set when a small increase in the amount of smoke is seen when the engine is laboured under 2000 rpm. 3. Isolate the boost compensator fuelling as described in note below. 4. Adjust maximum fuelling on pump - set when a small amount of smoke is seen when the engine is laboured under 2000 rpm. 5. Re-connect the boost compensator hose. 5. Check the boost, and adjust the waste gate if necessary. 6. Repeat 4 - clockwise to increase fuel or anti-clockwise to decrease fuel - until the optimum compromise is found for smoke emission, performance and fuel economy. This process of careful adjustment was carried out over a period weeks, I carefully monitored visual smoke emissions and fuel economy during the period.
Note: To isolate the effects of the compensator from the effects of the maximum fuel screw since the compensator has little effect when set to rich, simply pull-off the vacuum hose from the compensator and plug-off it off with stopper, say a bolt (on the intercooler side !).
I will in no way be held responsible for ANYTHING you do to your own vehicle; this guide is for your information only.