STILL A SLIGHT HEATER PROBLEM ON A XANTIA 1.9TD SX 1996

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WELSHVIKING
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STILL A SLIGHT HEATER PROBLEM ON A XANTIA 1.9TD SX 1996

Post by WELSHVIKING »

Hi, After replacing my thermostat and releasing all air locks ( i hope ) my heater is still only warmish , i have heard there can be a problem with the flaps on these older xantia's. Can anyone please explain which flaps i need to look at and how will i tell if i have a problem. Just to add the heater controls in the car work 100% ( apart from limited heat ) and all hoses in the engine bay are nice and hot and when i start the car up i feel the rush of hot water when the thermostat reaches the opening temparture.......Thanks
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Post by AndersDK »

What is your temp display like ?
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Post by WELSHVIKING »

80-85 Degrees now i have done the thermostat, it was about 70 degrees before, it will go up above 85 then the cooling fans kick in
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Post by AndersDK »

Great !

This means your heater supply should be just fine.
Dont think there is a general problem with the flaps. Its not like on old Fiats where the flaps would stick because of rusty pivot pins :roll:
All parts are plastic on the Xantia heater.

Since there is no control valve on the water side, you may still have an airlock. I'd give it one more try with the homemade header tank method.
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Post by WELSHVIKING »

Thanks Anders, i will have another look in the next couple of days
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Post by Xantia troubles »

Hi,
I too have a tepid heater, and have been through the same process of thermostat change, to no avail
what is this header tank method you are talking about please?
Jonathan
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Heater woes

Post by KennyW »

HI Welshviking,

Have you opened the bleed nipples at the hoses leading into the matrix and on the return pipe?

That my help!

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Post by AndersDK »

Xantia troubles wrote:Hi,
I too have a tepid heater, and have been through the same process of thermostat change, to no avail
what is this header tank method you are talking about please?
Jonathan
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... php?t=9777

The idea is to create a coolant level positively as the highest point while coolant is heated and circulated during a full engine warm up period. Be patient and blip the acc pedal from time time.
May well take half an hour before the complete system is at working temp.
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Post by ralph »

You can reduce how long it takes to make the cooling fans cut in by running the engine at fast idle and loading up the engine by turning on headlamps, heated rear screen etc.
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Post by jeremy »

It is also possible that the heater matrix is partially blocked by sludge. If it is you may be lucky and be able to shift it by for example disconnecting it and connecting to a hose (be careful - full hose pressure can be 90 psi - and its designed to run at 15 or so) - otherwise a replacement may be needed.

If its sludged thare may be other evidence - like the rest of the water was very dirty.
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Post by jgra1 »

I have same problem on 306 my friend has just brought..

i do vaguely remember someone once saying that to avoid airlocks on a 106 peugeot diesel, you needed to bleed system with car raised at front /or back....

anyone heard this?

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Post by AndersDK »

jgra1 wrote:I have same problem on 306 my friend has just brought..

i do vaguely remember someone once saying that to avoid airlocks on a 106 peugeot diesel, you needed to bleed system with car raised at front /or back....

anyone heard this?

John
Used to do this with my BX'es.
Its with the front raised of course - as this will make the radiator cap/header tank the highest raised point.
As long as there is movement in the coolant and non restricted flow - no pressure - its quite easy make the air locks move to the highest point in system. This happens exactly when the thermostat is open andthe coolant pump (engine) is running.
However modern engines and their coolant (cabin heater) systems rarely have their filler necks/caps at the highest point in the system. And bleed screws seems to be there only if they cared on the assembly line ...

If you have an inclined driveway it may all you need just leaving the car nose up for half an hour cycling the engine to its work temp.
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