ZX Power Steering.

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alanshep
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ZX Power Steering.

Post by alanshep »

Hello.

I have a 1994 ZX 1.9D with power steering. The steering has recently started to feel a bit vague and reacts to the road surface more than usual.

With the engine off, rocking the steering wheel produces a definite knocking sound. I think this is coming from the passenger side end of the steering rack. If I reach in from above and grab the passenger side track rod near to the steering rack and jerk it upwards I feel an amount of movement but it feels as if the movement in the rack rather then the inner track rod joint.

Could the rack itself be worn out? I'm going to have a look at it this weekend but want to be prepared for what I might find. GSF don't do a power steering rack for the ZX and I've been quoted £135 elsewhere. Is this reasonable?

GSF do have manual steering racks for just over £30. Is it possible to remove the power steering rack and ram and replace it with a manual steering rack?

Thanks. Alan.
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Post by oscarloco »

I don't think the steering rack is gone, most probably the track rod ends are dead.
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

Alan -

Do a more thorough investigation on the problem before you fork out for a new rack.
Sure those 30 quid is for a power steering rack ?
Really sounds cheap for a rack with ram fittings, control valve et al.

It sometimes happens that the rack mounting bolts becomes loose.
Most common problem is the droplinks. Those short bars w/ ball links connecting lower control arm with the ARB.
Next most common problem is as Oscar writes.
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Post by Peter.N. »

From your description, it certainly sounds like the rack, but I would also check your front tyres, worn or incorrectly inflated tyres can do funny things. I think you would sorely miss your power steering, I would go for the £135.00 rack. The one for my XM cost about £200.00 + a deposit, I shelled out £350.00 initially, and I bet yours is easier to fit.
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Post by alanshep »

Thanks for the replies.

Peter, I've already tried different front wheels - following your advice on an earlier post about some vibration I was suffering. It didn't make much difference.

Anders, £30 (approx) was for a manual rack - I was thinking of maybe converting to non power steering at least temporarily. I'm going to get under the car this weekend and have a proper check. If I can't see anything obvious I think I will disconnect just the left hand track rod and see if the noise is still there when I rock the steering wheel. Then if necessary repeat with just the right hand track road disconnected to ascertain which side of the car the noise is coming from.

I assume it's OK to temporarily disconnect the droplinks whilst rocking the steering wheel to remove these as a possible source of noise.
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Post by jeremy »

The price you've been quoted for a recon rack seems quite good - Euro Car Parts quote £152.25 + VAT. (+ a deposit)

It is possible that the rack itself has become dry and if you can work some grease or oil into it the rattle may go. Probably the way to do it would be to peel the gaiter off the rack, extend the shaft by turning the wheel, grease the shaft and wind it back, and repeat a few times. If this can be done and how easy it is I have no idea.

Rack wear does not seem to be a common problem with any model of Citroen and if you look on this board you will find some cars have covered amazing mileages.
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Post by AndersDK »

alanshep wrote:I assume it's OK to temporarily disconnect the droplinks whilst rocking the steering wheel to remove these as a possible source of noise.
Its easier diagnosing the other bits then.
Will make for a retro-2CV driving experience :lol:
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Post by Peter.N. »

Jeremy - I had to replace the rack on my XM at about 260K and then I found that most of the wear was in the column coupling! They wouldn't change it under guarantee!
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Post by alanshep »

I'm pretty certain that the inner track rod ball joint is faulty on the left hand end of the rack. Unfortunately I can't see how to remove it.

There is a protective boot over the ball joint but the collar & stud that the ram fits to seems to retain this boot. I can't see how to remove the boot without first removing the collar (short of just cutting it off) and I don't know how to remove the collar!

Does anybody know what I need to do ?

Thanks.
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Post by AndersDK »

You must first remove the ram to have the ram mounting stud as free end.
Then you clean the rubber boot and make it as fresh as possible using silicone spray - let dry for an hour.
Now the boot should be fiddled back over the ram fitting stud.

This reveals the inner balljoint which is screwed into the end of the toothed rack rod. There is a flat on both parts to grip/wind off the joint.
Use precision fit tools only !
It is possible the parts are locked by pinching which then must be opened.

This is of course AFTER you removed the outer track rod ...

(Taken from BX steering rack work experience.)
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Post by Dave Burns »

Put the wheels on full lock so that the rack is fully extended towards the nearside, grab the rack from above with your hand round the bellows, if there is lift at this point the play is in the racks bushing and not the ball joint.

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Post by alanshep »

Dave, I think you're right and it is wear in the rack. I just wanted to get the track rod off to be certain although I haven't managed it yet.

Do you know how to remove the rack? I've spent nearly all day looking at it and I can't work out how to remove the pipe connections to the rack - access is a real problem.

I'm almost tempted to cut them and then try to make a repair when I fit the replacement rack. Is power steering fluid at high pressure and would it be possiible to make a secure repair with suitable hose and clips?

Thanks.

Alan.
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Post by Dave Burns »

The fluid is indeed at high pressure, you wont contain it with hose clips it will just blow them off.

Car up on ramps, unclip the pipes from the subframe, unbolt the rack and move it to a position where the unions to the valve can be unscrewed, then remove the rack, even then they are buggers to undo, use flare nut spanners if you can.


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alanshep
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Post by alanshep »

I've just been reading the Haynes manual - particulalry the bit about removing the front subframe.

It's possibly a bit extreme but I was thinking that if I removed the front subframe (leaving the steering rack behind) that I would have much better access to these connections. Has anybody tried this?

Also, just out of interest - where does the power come from in this arrangement? I assumed that the ram drives the rack but a couple of people I've spoken to have referred to the ram as a 'damper'.

Thanks

Alan
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Post by AndersDK »

alanshep wrote:Also, just out of interest - where does the power come from in this arrangement? I assumed that the ram drives the rack but a couple of people I've spoken to have referred to the ram as a 'damper'.
Because the ram looks like a shocker - as found on several earlier cars (I know of the earlier VW transporters).
This was to avoid knocking the steering wheel out of the hands of the driver, if one front wheel hit an obstacle (pothole etc) during drive.

Believe me it is the ram cylinder driving the rack. The piping you discussed with Dave is the feed from the Power steering pump to the ram.
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