Xantia - Hard to work on?

KAD · Post by **KAD** » 26 Nov 2002, 00:34

I think my Xantia 1.9 TD is not the easiest car to work on. My
old Rover 214 was a piece of cake to fix, but the Xantia
always seems to make everything a bit awkward. It is not
'anti sink', so jacking up a non runner is quite a challange.
Getting the spare wheel out is impossible without the engine
running as well.
Having said that an HDi Xantia looks like a nightmare
under the bonnet, I wouldn't want have to work on that engine.
I have heard that the now rare CX Turbo could take the prize
of 'worst car to work on'.
Others are no better though, the Fiat Coupe Turbo needs
engine removal when changing the cam belt....!!

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 26 Nov 2002, 02:19

A lot of people would agree that the Rover 214 was a piece of something else aswell besides cake, knock the E off<img src=icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle>
With the amount of clobber being crammed on modern cars its only going to get worse for the bloke with the spanners.
Dave

alan s · Post by **alan s** » 26 Nov 2002, 02:20

With Cits, I've found over the 18 years I've owned & worked on them, that there are usually "tricks" to working on them. Much of the work has to be done on a lot of models by removing a wheel and inner guard cover and then the access is incredibly easy. As far as lifting a non going Cit goes, then a scissor jack is a must; just used long enough to get a proper jack under it.
Axle stands and ramps are another must so that the car can be accessed easily from beneath with an element of safety (something not there on a jack or worse still, with the suspension jacked up on high <img src=icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle> A CX is possibly the best example of "planned accesability." Go looking for the oil filter and it's nigh on impossible to see. Run the car up on ramps and slide further back under the "B" pillar and above a crossmember there is a hole big enough to drive a truck through & the filter is looking at you. Do a cambelt change on a BX Cit & you're looking at around 2 to 3 hours. By contrast, a Ford/Mazda MPV is around 8 with the front seats, radiator, hand brake assy and seat belts all having to be removed to get access before you start or the ultimate mechanics nightmare a Mitsubishi quad cam 4WD. 3 hours minimum to change spark plugs and a day & a quarter to 3 days (depending on problems encountered) to change a cambelt. Want to take a guess on what that little project would cost??
Alan S

Dave Bamber · Post by **Dave Bamber** » 26 Nov 2002, 02:53

Thing is, how many times would you do an awkward job? Cambelt, every 30-35000 miles or every 2-3 years? Glow plugs, at 50000 miles or 5 years if you are unlucky, clutch, once during ownership, again if you're unlucky. Most of us might only have to do one crap job throughout ownership and just think, once done, the swell of pride with a job well done <img src=icon_smile_clown.gif border=0 align=middle> A good idea when doing an awkward one is to plan ahead, If your on the cambelt job, change the waterpump as well as the tensioner and the altenator belt and maybe even the cam seal at the same time. 5 jobs done for only an hours extra time.........<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>
Berlingo HDI Wicked<img src=icon_smile_evil.gif border=0 align=middle>Red
Edited by - Dave Bamber on 25 Nov 2002 22:37:38

KAD · Post by **KAD** » 26 Nov 2002, 16:31

Yes, I am getting used to the tricks when working on Xantias.
What really ****** me off was having to change the heater
matrix twice, what do they make 'em out of...cheese?
I agree with what you've said though, most modern stuff is no
better access wise. One thing I have found out the hard way (I
was new to hydro suspension)was DO NOT TOW THE CAR with the engine
not running!! A good yank on the handbrake saved the day.

alan s · Post by **alan s** » 26 Nov 2002, 17:05

[quote/]
"What really ****** me off was having to change the heater
matrix twice, what do they make 'em out of...cheese?"
I'd take a very serious look at the coolant you use if this is the case. You don't top it up with tap water by any chance do you?
Alan S

mbunting · Post by **mbunting** » 26 Nov 2002, 17:53

I top mine up with cold, filtered, pre-boiled water.
It seems to drink water at the rate of approx one litre per month. Cambelt change coming up soon, so I'll do the water pump as well !
Thankfully, the water and the oil aren't mixing ( which is what I first feared ).
Mat.