98 Xantia tdsx estate just bought

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c.morewood
Donor 2023
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Location: Kemnay, Nr Aberdeen, United Kingdom
My Cars: '00 Xantia 110 bhp Hdi SX Estate 65K "W"
'99 Xantia 110 bhp Hdi SX Estate 310K SORN "V"
'98 Xantia 1.9TD SX Estate 150K Sold "T"
x 47

98 Xantia tdsx estate just bought

Post by c.morewood »

I've just bought a 1998 Xantia 1.9td sx estate as a second car. As its only a year younger than my Hdi and 60 k less miles at 112k, it looked a good buy.
It has been self maintained for 3 years so I think the first thing will be a good service and a hydraflush however there are a couple of things i might manage myself...
The faults I know about are, both front doors have dropped and are catching the top of the rears... i think it could be the hinge pins.. are these easy to replace?
Both the clutch and accelerator cables are stiff.. is it worth oiling these or is it just as easy to replace them.. is it a diy job? I have to work outside without a garage just a set of ramps.
Is there anything else i should be looking for?
Thanks
Chris
Chris
Tesla Model 3 LR DM AWD Blue White
'00 Xant 110HdiSX Est 83K "W"
'99 Xant 110HdiSX Est 320K "V"
'98 Xant 1.9TDSX Est 150K "T"
'97 Xant 1.9TD 20k Est
'94 Fiat TipoTd 40K

'85 BMW K100RT 330K Garaged 26yrs '80 Honda CB250 twin Superdream
citronut
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Post by citronut »

hi Chris have you looked at the A posts where the hindge is welded to it,the usual thing is the hindge mounting is split or and rustting at this point,if you are the lucky one the pins can be replaced and it is easyer if you buy the sykes pikavant pin removing tool,i wouldent waste your dosh on the draper version,also the throtle cable could be the pedel assembaly splitting where the said pedel pivots,the clutch cable could be you need a new clutch
regards malcolm
jeremy
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Post by jeremy »

Apparently Xantia Estates were made in a different factory and there are quality issues with the front door hinges - which drop off the car.

The experience of others on thisboard is that some mechanics/bodyshops will do a superb job but make a meal of it - others will do the job quite cheaply. A good search of this site will probably reveal all.

The accelerator cable may simply be dried lubricant - it was on my 94 ZX when I did that one. GSF sold me a universal kit - and this included some oil and I could have replaced the inner only. I did both as we thought the cable was sticking and I wondered if the outer was grooved. If you do get one of these kits be careful of clipping in the clip into the accelerator pedal before you are ready and have made sure the rubber bits (if you use them) have been cut to size to allow full pedal travel. (I didn't and it caused me loads of grief!)

The clutch could be the levers and shafts at the gearbox end - depending on the type of mechanism fitted. Malcolm is probably right but a drop of oil and a couple on minutes work may be worth it.
jeremy
c.morewood
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Location: Kemnay, Nr Aberdeen, United Kingdom
My Cars: '00 Xantia 110 bhp Hdi SX Estate 65K "W"
'99 Xantia 110 bhp Hdi SX Estate 310K SORN "V"
'98 Xantia 1.9TD SX Estate 150K Sold "T"
x 47

Post by c.morewood »

Thanks Malcolm/Jeremy, I had a look at the welds and they seem fine .. just looks like wear on the pins... no rusting round the welds visible.. where would i get the pin removal tool from? sounds like you've already been down this road. I'll have a look at the pedal and give the cables a bit of oil when I'm next home.. I was rather hoping it wouldn't be a new clutch.. my grey Hdi has done about 170k on the same clutch admittedly mostly motorway..
I was hoping that someone would say just tape the new cable to the old and drag it through.. as we used to do on the motorbikes. is this possible on the Xantia?
Cheers
Chris
Chris
Tesla Model 3 LR DM AWD Blue White
'00 Xant 110HdiSX Est 83K "W"
'99 Xant 110HdiSX Est 320K "V"
'98 Xant 1.9TDSX Est 150K "T"
'97 Xant 1.9TD 20k Est
'94 Fiat TipoTd 40K

'85 BMW K100RT 330K Garaged 26yrs '80 Honda CB250 twin Superdream
c.morewood
Donor 2023
Posts: 1041
Joined: 05 Nov 2004, 14:38
Location: Kemnay, Nr Aberdeen, United Kingdom
My Cars: '00 Xantia 110 bhp Hdi SX Estate 65K "W"
'99 Xantia 110 bhp Hdi SX Estate 310K SORN "V"
'98 Xantia 1.9TD SX Estate 150K Sold "T"
x 47

Post by c.morewood »

Well the result of the doors dropping proved that it was indeed the welds.
Hamworthy Body did a great job for just £55 each and in only 5 hours.
I'd reccomend them to anyone.
The throttle cable was well frayed and got replaced, but the clutch cable is just stiff.
Just one other question though. When I put the heater on to full just after starting the car it comes on for about 10 seconds and then appears to go to idle.. it does this no matter what temp setting or where the air is going. On my HDi the fan stays on full until I tell it to stop no matter what.
The TD's temp does not rise as fast as the HDi and will sit at 60 degrees unless I'm sitting still in traffic. Does this point to a thermostat problem?
Cheers
Chris
Chris
Tesla Model 3 LR DM AWD Blue White
'00 Xant 110HdiSX Est 83K "W"
'99 Xant 110HdiSX Est 320K "V"
'98 Xant 1.9TDSX Est 150K "T"
'97 Xant 1.9TD 20k Est
'94 Fiat TipoTd 40K

'85 BMW K100RT 330K Garaged 26yrs '80 Honda CB250 twin Superdream
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

You may both have a tired thermostat and airlocks. Airlocks are a common problem on Citroen's XU engines.
Temp should raise approx same time as your HDI - and stay at some 80'ish. Certainly points to a tired thermostat.
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
jeremy
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Post by jeremy »

Looks like thermostat - you may be able to check it by feeling the top hose as the engine warms up. It should stay cold until the thing reaches opening temperature then rapidly get hot. Trouble is if you let the engine idle to achieve this you'll probably die of boredom.

Interestingly the HDi does not dump anything like as much heat into the cooling water - which is why the 110 has the auxilliary diesel powered heater. The reason is that the old XUD is an indirect injection engine with injection being made into a chamber inserted in the head. This is quite large and conducts a large amount of heat into the water. The HDi injects directly into the combustion chamber and has a much simpler head/combustion chamber and so much less surface area.

An XUD should warm up and give useful heat from the heater quickly. Neither of mine will attain designed heat properly in cold weather - and both have been fitted with new thermostats. The heaters on both are very good and I think are doing most of the cooling.

Never seen a xantia clutch cable - so can't comment - except by reputation they are not much fun to fit.
jeremy
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Post by BonceChops »

jeremy wrote:Never seen a xantia clutch cable
Arn't you the lucky one :D

Can you explain a bit more about the 110 HDi diesel powered heater please. Is this a cabin heater or water heater?
Neil
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

BonceChops wrote:
jeremy wrote:Never seen a xantia clutch cable
Arn't you the lucky one :D

Can you explain a bit more about the 110 HDi diesel powered heater please. Is this a cabin heater or water heater?
It is similar to a cabin heater unit but used for heating the coolant. On Xantia found in front part of LHS wheel arch. The small exhaust pipe is easy to recognise.
Someone once posted a pic on here showing the exhaust pipe as he did not know what the purpose was of this.
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
c.morewood
Donor 2023
Posts: 1041
Joined: 05 Nov 2004, 14:38
Location: Kemnay, Nr Aberdeen, United Kingdom
My Cars: '00 Xantia 110 bhp Hdi SX Estate 65K "W"
'99 Xantia 110 bhp Hdi SX Estate 310K SORN "V"
'98 Xantia 1.9TD SX Estate 150K Sold "T"
x 47

Post by c.morewood »

Thanks Guys,
I'll replace the thermostat at the weekend. Will the thermostat cause the heater not to run on the TD? On the HDi it will run, when commanded, at max at almost any water temp?
Chris
Chris
Tesla Model 3 LR DM AWD Blue White
'00 Xant 110HdiSX Est 83K "W"
'99 Xant 110HdiSX Est 320K "V"
'98 Xant 1.9TDSX Est 150K "T"
'97 Xant 1.9TD 20k Est
'94 Fiat TipoTd 40K

'85 BMW K100RT 330K Garaged 26yrs '80 Honda CB250 twin Superdream
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

The thermostat directly controls the temp of the working engine coolant - which in turn feeds the heater.
Problem with a tired thermostat is that it will not fully close on cold/cool engine/coolant thus allowing a coolant flow when not needed. This make for longish engine warm-up period and then lack of demister heat when you need it at most.
Its a very common problem indeed.
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
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