HA2 hard suspension partly solved

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Mandrake
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Post by Mandrake »

JohnCKL wrote:I meant that I can't find suitable replacements for those 2 green O-rings. Maybe should have approached a few parts suppliers. I was told the green O-rings have different properties than the black ones, so did not replace them.
Ok.... I wasn't aware that the green o-rings had a special significance.
Only accidently opened the top part in trying to remove it to facilitate easy removal of the top large pipe.
The official Citroen manual actually does says to remove the solenoid before removing the large top pipe, but they don't say whether to turn the nut at the top or the one at the bottom...
Mine do sometimes, even twice after refitting the electrovalve.
Mine has done it once since refitting too :( But since the front solenoid is leaking again I don't know if this is the cause or not
Point taken, will consult with my mech on the pressure regulator which is leaking now due to the mech's apprentice, probably screwing on the bleed valve too tightly, its leaking from there.
Ok, if its leaking externally around the bleed screw bolt, there is an o-ring on that bolt that can be replaced which should prevent it leaking. Simply depressurize the suspension and open the bleed screw as normal, then continue to unwind it until it comes out - you'll need a container held near the hole because some oil will squirt out, and also the ball from the ball valve will fall out or fly out, and you don't want to lose it :)

Then simply clean the hole in case of any grit being trapped on the seat, replace the o-ring and refit. A very easy operation provided the ball doesn't get lost...
The anti-sink valve maybe needs some attention. Whenever the car is switched off, the back sinks about 2-3cm after some time, is that a problem? What other symptoms of a problematic anti-sink valve?
How much is "some time" ? It's normal for the rear to sink a couple of centimetres after several hours, and then usually it doesn't sink any further over night.

Also the condition of the anti-sink sphere has some affect on the rate at which the rear sinks, as it plays a role in controlling the valve.

Regards,
Simon
Simon

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Post by JohnCKL »

The bleed screw leak sounds easy enough to fix.

My car sinks a bit after a few hours, so its normal. The anti-sink sphere has been full regassed, so not the problem there. If there's no serious problem, guess I'll leave it alone too. There other problems to attend to.

Thanks for the advice, Simon.
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JohnCKL
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Post by JohnCKL »

Good things don't last. My hydraulic pump now goes to 12 sec tick but suspension still feels OK. Stop light goes off about 10 sec from cold, better than 1-2 minutes previously. Still clonking underneath esp. cornering, so will take apart suspension when do overhaul next month.
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Post by Mandrake »

Can you hear hissing again from the front hydractive solenoid with the doors open and engine off ?

If you temporarily unplug the power to the front solenoid does the regulator cycle time revert to 3 minutes or more ?

If so it sounds like your solenoid could have started leaking again, as mine did. Mine is also switching to soft mode ok, but the leakage returned soon after cleaning out the solenoid, causing the regulator cycle time to drop to about 15 seconds again :(

I will be replacing the solenoid soon when I can afford to spend more money on the car...

Regards,
Simon
Simon

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Post by JohnCKL »

Can you hear hissing again from the front hydractive solenoid with the doors open and engine off ?
Yes, sort of whining sound from both front and rear HA. Cycle time now about 25-30 secs, even with front solenoid unplugged, which means the front EV is OK? Maybe need to clean up rear EV too. Anyway, suspension now still better than before. > 200k km already, perhaps need to take out rear arm bearings and grease them, rear feels a bit hard now.
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Post by Mandrake »

JohnCKL wrote:
Can you hear hissing again from the front hydractive solenoid with the doors open and engine off ?
Yes, sort of whining sound from both front and rear HA. Cycle time now about 25-30 secs, even with front solenoid unplugged, which means the front EV is OK?
Unplugging the solenoid will test for leakage in the ON state, which (like mine) seems to occur in the needle valve seat on the overflow port, however if the small green o-ring on the end of the solenoid (which you didn't replace ?) is leaking, then the solenoid would leak in the OFF state, but not the ON state.

So perhaps try replacing that o-ring ?
Maybe need to clean up rear EV too. Anyway, suspension now still better than before. > 200k km already, perhaps need to take out rear arm bearings and grease them, rear feels a bit hard now.
Others will probably correct me here, but by the time the rear suspension arm bearings get to the point where they're making the ride hard/harsh, the bearings are already ruined and can only be replaced. Trying to grease them is closing the gate after the horse has bolted.

Do you have too much negative camber on the rear wheels ? Normally it is about 1.5 degrees. Does it creak and groan at the back when lifting and lowering the suspension ? If not perhaps they are not faulty.

Perhaps your rear solenoid is giving the same problems the front one was and sticking in hard mode ? (And also causing the leakage)

Regards,
Simon
Simon

1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
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JohnCKL
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Post by JohnCKL »

Will try replacing the small o-ring on the solenoid but can't find the right size for the larger o-ring. Can't notice any negative camber on the rear wheels and no creaks/groans. Perhaps should leave them alone. Will service the rear solenoid and see if it improves.
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Post by Mandrake »

JohnCKL wrote:Will try replacing the small o-ring on the solenoid but can't find the right size for the larger o-ring.
If the larger o-ring leaked it would leak externally, so if its not leaking externally it should be ok. However the small o-ring seals the inlet port from the control port that goes to the slide valve in the main unit.

So if it leaks the inlet pressure leaks to the control port. In the ON state this would have no effect as these ports are already connected, but in the OFF state the control port is connected to the overflow thus inlet would leak to overflow.
Can't notice any negative camber on the rear wheels and no creaks/groans. Perhaps should leave them alone. Will service the rear solenoid and see if it improves.
How are the sphere pressure on the rear ? Hydractive centre sphere gassed up ok in particular ? Can you notice a big difference in the softness during a bounce test in hard or soft modes ?

Usually if the rear arm bearings are faulty there is visible excessive negative camber, and the rear wont move in a smooth continuous movement when lifting it up and down.

Regards,
Simon
Simon

1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White

2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
JohnCKL
Posts: 230
Joined: 24 Sep 2002, 23:35
Location: Malaysia
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Post by JohnCKL »

How are the sphere pressure on the rear ? Hydractive centre sphere gassed up ok in particular ? Can you notice a big difference in the softness during a bounce test in hard or soft modes ?
Rear and HA spheres regassed at correct pressures. Hand bounce seems to be OK, soft but when driving, doesn't seem to bounce as softly as by hand. Will clean rear EV mid Feb and see if any difference then.
Xantia 1.9TD 1996
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