changing hg on d12 xm
Moderator: RichardW
changing hg on d12 xm
I am going ton take head off my car's engine . Do I have to take the engine out. How to prepere myself the best (parts, special tools). How long should it take?
You don't need to take the engine out, but you do need to perform some tricks if you wish to remove the head with engine in place. The main reason why Citroen say you need to remove the engine is that there isn't enough room to lift the head as standard - it hits the bulkhead. To overcome this, you need to place a trolley jack under the engine and remove the right hand engine mounts. You can then lower the RH end of the engine and move it forward, thus giving space for the head to be lifted. It is also advisable to remove the turbo otherwise the exhaust manifold won't come up from behind the engine. These are the only major problems, otherwise its as difficult/easy as any HG replacement. Remember that the head, despite being aluminium, weighs a ton! Its difficult enough getting it off, but the real bitch is getting it back in place over the new HG when you are refitting it. Either hire Arnold Schwartzenigger or find some way of SLOWLY easing the head down accurately so that it ends up correctly aligned with the head bolt holes and you can insert a few to hold the HG in the right position.
Depending on engine model/year you may have strechable Head bolts. these are supposedly reusable AS LONG as they havn't been stretched to far all ready. The best bet is new bolts. And change the cam belt and water pump while your'e at it, and the camshaft seal and crankshaft seal as well if there is any sign of oil leakage - you will kill yourself if you find that any one of the afformentioned parts suddenly needs replacement AFTER you have got it all together again!
Otherwise read Haynes BOL.
//NiSk
Depending on engine model/year you may have strechable Head bolts. these are supposedly reusable AS LONG as they havn't been stretched to far all ready. The best bet is new bolts. And change the cam belt and water pump while your'e at it, and the camshaft seal and crankshaft seal as well if there is any sign of oil leakage - you will kill yourself if you find that any one of the afformentioned parts suddenly needs replacement AFTER you have got it all together again!
Otherwise read Haynes BOL.
//NiSk
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I suspect that Nisk has a LHD, on the RHD you only need to remove the top mounting, which you have to do anyway, and lower the engine as far as it will go and you can remove the head with the manifolds and turbo intact, but it will take two of you and you will probably find that you will bend the turbo oil return pipe, but you can straighten it when you put it back together.
Just another suggestion. As the clearance between the camshaft carrier and the head/inlet manifold is almost non existant, when reassembling run a bead of silicon sealer round the edge of the cam carrier and let it dry overnight, that way, you stand less chance of scraping it off and causing an oil leak.
Just another suggestion. As the clearance between the camshaft carrier and the head/inlet manifold is almost non existant, when reassembling run a bead of silicon sealer round the edge of the cam carrier and let it dry overnight, that way, you stand less chance of scraping it off and causing an oil leak.