MOT failure - CV boots :(

batwad · Post by **batwad** » 28 Oct 2005, 18:17

I suppose I should be grateful that it's the only thing that my 306 failed on, but I can't help but be p***ed off that I'm going to have to do the job twice - both outer boots are split

I'll probably cause a Biblical-scale rainstorm on Sunday as I attempt to do the job

Does anyone have any tips or advice for the job?

First one to say "take it to a garage" gets their tea spiked with LHM

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » 28 Oct 2005, 18:45

If you're pushed for time, to get it through the MOT, you could always use split boots.

j_roc · Post by **j_roc** » 28 Oct 2005, 18:59

ONLY do one side at a time. Soak the bolts/nut's in WD40 the night before as it will greatly help when you come to remove them on Sunday. Other than that it's pretty straight-foreward (easy to say when your a mechanic

) . Oh yeah, be prepared for some fiddling when you have to put the TCA/Lower arm back in place (but it's not to fiddley, just a pain in the ars* when the car is only on a trolley jack - know what im saying?). Hope this helps - Alex

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 28 Oct 2005, 19:31

if your shafts inner joints are what i call baked bean can type,you will need to fit the new outers from the inner end,this will require gently unpeeling the rolled over edge of the bean can,then slide it and the inner boot down the shaft,remove the triak and the inner boot,then replace the outer boot,refit the inner and the triak,fit the inner cup in as fare as it will go,now roll the edge of the bean can bake over by tapping it over with a (small)hammer,do not use cable ties to secure the drive shafrt gaiters,because you cant pull them tight enough to stop the grease seaping out,if you have or are buying the boots from GSF they will the proper lygerx straping in the kit,you can fit this with two paires of pliers
regards malcolm

mezuk04 · Post by **mezuk04** » 28 Oct 2005, 19:47

Do the job properly and avoid split boots, you will only have to get down there again and do it again when it comes apart

Stewart(oily) · Post by **Stewart(oily)** » 28 Oct 2005, 20:00

Use decent quality boots, not the split ones, slacken big hub nuts and wheel nuts both sides then jack up both sides to avoid fighting anti roll bars, a long bar and gravity will extract bottom balljoints, follow the BOL, not a bad little job.
Stewart

Post by **Peter.N.** » 29 Oct 2005, 00:14

If you disconnect the drive shafts and remove the boots you should be able to get the CV joints off by placing a drift (piece of 1/2" diameter bar will do) against the CV joint close to the shaft and giving it smart clout outwards with a heavy hammer. This should compress the retaining clip and release the joint.

bxbodger · Post by **bxbodger** » 29 Oct 2005, 00:32

Once upon a time I too thought split boots were useless- that is until I had to use one for a rapidly impending MOT- I thought this'll do for now till I get time to fit the proper one-its been on for getting on for 3 years now with absolutely no problems. They are just as good as the original ones, and a whole lot less bother to fit if you're pushed for time.

It only took about 10 minutes to fit- it took longer to get the old one off!!

You do have to keep the joining edge clean while you are fitting them, though, and once you touch the two parts together the glue sets immediately, and you will no way get the joint apart again!!
I think that where people have had bother with them its because they have got oil or grease into the V channel where the glue goes.

pmhpmh · Post by **pmhpmh** » 29 Oct 2005, 09:19

I will go with BXbodger.

Split boots get bad press from the trade because they take away lucrative labour hours. (and also the trade only ever see the failures, a correctly done one attracts no comment!)

Bad press from diys who have had a failure. Generally because they have not been scrupulously careful in preparation.

You must make sure that all glued joints are absolutely free of grease/oil before fixing, and that universal boots are correctly cut to size. DO NOT rely on the manufacturers cutting chart, compare the old boot with the new one.

However to keep it clean easily, requires good working conditions, a pit or hoist with good lighting is ideal. Working in the gutter in the rain with just a jack does not lend itself to a 100% result. Also buy a reputable make.

sleepy0905 · Post by **sleepy0905** » 29 Oct 2005, 16:40

I never had a problem with a split boot in fact it lasted really well it was the shaft that eventually failed so i stripped it all and have kept the boot as a spare i now prefer the cone and stretch method it is a lot quicker.

batwad · Post by **batwad** » 29 Oct 2005, 18:40

Wow, thanks guys; plenty of advice there! I bit the bullet and bought proper gaiters from GSF this afternoon (which came complete with several sachets of nice squishy grease and some retaining rings), though they didn't list ones specifically for the HDI but the guy at the counter surmised they'd be the same as for the old TD - I hope he's right!

Do the driveshafts have to come out? I know I'll only end up covering my old man's driveway with gear oil if they do

sleepy0905 · Post by **sleepy0905** » 29 Oct 2005, 18:50

not if you are carefull you can do it without removing the shaft from the gearbox but if you are removing the joint of the shaft have a good grip so when you knock it of the shaft you dont unplug the inner end.

mezuk04 · Post by **mezuk04** » 29 Oct 2005, 20:24

Does he also need to replace the gearbox oil too???

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 29 Oct 2005, 20:54

the problem with split and cone fitted gaiters is,if your old gaiter is split wide open the joint will have ingressed plenty of grit and s**t,so useing either of these gaiters in that situation you will trap all the crap in your joint,which will knacker it prematurly,on the other hand if your shaft is the type i mentioned earlier,it is not usual to remove the outter joint on these shafts
regards malcolm

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » 30 Oct 2005, 09:08

mezuk04 wrote:Does he also need to replace the gearbox oil too???

If you remove the shaft from the gearbox, you need to drain the oil first, otherwise the oil will follow the shaft through the seal. If you just remove the outer joint, then there's no need to drain.