Hey all,
Good to see this site was saved, there is a wealth of knowledge here for people to use...
I know it has probably been up hundreds of times before, but i need to know how to change the spheres on my n reg 1.9 td vsx xantia..
Does anyone have the correct part number for the spheres and can it be done without draining the system down. also are they just unscrewed?
MOT coming and i had an advice note last time about the susp so its about time i done something about it!
cheers for your help
Changing Xantia spheres
Moderator: RichardW
There is a sphere application table on the GSF site under downloads. Al-Ko who make spheres as well as caravan chassisand other bits also have one on their site.
If you buy spheres from a reputable supplier like GSF they will take care to supply the right ones but there's no harm in knowing.
Removing them is no real problem if you can get a grip on them. Oil filter removal tools will break but people use all manner of devices including heavy duty chain wrenches. Search the site and you should come up with many recommendations. No need to drain the system, support the car properly and drop the suspension and undo for front ones. Back ones are a bit more difficult as certainly on a BX the strut turns - so it needs to be under pressure to lock it while the sphere is turned a fraction whith pressure applied, with a load on the wheels at max height. Once this has been done, turn off the engine, drop the suspension fully which will set the height corrector to return LHM to the reservoir and undo. Refitting is the reverse but take care to get the seal in the strut groove first and only screw the sphere on hand tight. (This is all it needs.)
The accumulator is much the same, relieve pressure by undoing the 12mm pressure relief screw 1/2 turn (NO MORE and CERTAINLY DO NOT TAKE IT OUT).
You probably have an anti-sink sphere - this is a bit different and I suggest you search the site for info on that.
If LHM seems to spray out after the height correctors have been set to low this is a sign that the sphere is weak. Its nothing to worry about - just messy. If the sphere is complety flat it will contain 1/2 litre or so of LHM.
Having done the job bleed the system by Citroebics - raise and lower the car a few times. This causes the LHM to flow into the syuspension struts the back out - taking air with it. You should not need to bleed the brakes.
Be careful the car doesn't drop on you - they can KILL.
If you buy spheres from a reputable supplier like GSF they will take care to supply the right ones but there's no harm in knowing.
Removing them is no real problem if you can get a grip on them. Oil filter removal tools will break but people use all manner of devices including heavy duty chain wrenches. Search the site and you should come up with many recommendations. No need to drain the system, support the car properly and drop the suspension and undo for front ones. Back ones are a bit more difficult as certainly on a BX the strut turns - so it needs to be under pressure to lock it while the sphere is turned a fraction whith pressure applied, with a load on the wheels at max height. Once this has been done, turn off the engine, drop the suspension fully which will set the height corrector to return LHM to the reservoir and undo. Refitting is the reverse but take care to get the seal in the strut groove first and only screw the sphere on hand tight. (This is all it needs.)
The accumulator is much the same, relieve pressure by undoing the 12mm pressure relief screw 1/2 turn (NO MORE and CERTAINLY DO NOT TAKE IT OUT).
You probably have an anti-sink sphere - this is a bit different and I suggest you search the site for info on that.
If LHM seems to spray out after the height correctors have been set to low this is a sign that the sphere is weak. Its nothing to worry about - just messy. If the sphere is complety flat it will contain 1/2 litre or so of LHM.
Having done the job bleed the system by Citroebics - raise and lower the car a few times. This causes the LHM to flow into the syuspension struts the back out - taking air with it. You should not need to bleed the brakes.
Be careful the car doesn't drop on you - they can KILL.
jeremy
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Hi,
The Activa was only available in certain trims. For example the V6 3.0, Turbo C.T (2.0), the 2.1TD and the 2.0 HDi...
If it is an Activa it should be written in some badge, usually on the doors. It will have 10 spheres. The Activa has a harder ride than others and is a wonderful car since it has practically no body roll.
The Activa was only available in certain trims. For example the V6 3.0, Turbo C.T (2.0), the 2.1TD and the 2.0 HDi...
If it is an Activa it should be written in some badge, usually on the doors. It will have 10 spheres. The Activa has a harder ride than others and is a wonderful car since it has practically no body roll.
Xantia Activa 2.0 HDi (1999)
Renault Clio 1.9D (1994)
BX 16TRS (1984) - RIP
Fiat Uno 45s (1987) - RIP
Renault Clio 1.9D (1994)
BX 16TRS (1984) - RIP
Fiat Uno 45s (1987) - RIP
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- My Cars:
You can buy quality spheres at GSF, the ex-host of this forum:
www.andyspares.com
I have always used original Citroen. Most spheres last 2-4 years. Not all spheres play the same role in the hydraulic system, so they are subject to different kinds of stress.
You will have one sphere per car corner. These are easy to check. If the car is all bouncy and hard to contro, that is, if dampingf isn´t what it used to be, with lots of oscillations, these spheres are shot. As in a normal car, you must renew left and right side simultaneously!
Then there is a central sphere, the so-calles accumulator. This is located near the engine, right between the radiator and engine body. If you hear lots of ticking (once every few seconds) while the engine is idle, the accumulator is shot. It plays a very important role in the system.
Then, according to the age of the car you may or not have additional spheres, such as anti-sink, hydractive, etc.
www.andyspares.com
I have always used original Citroen. Most spheres last 2-4 years. Not all spheres play the same role in the hydraulic system, so they are subject to different kinds of stress.
You will have one sphere per car corner. These are easy to check. If the car is all bouncy and hard to contro, that is, if dampingf isn´t what it used to be, with lots of oscillations, these spheres are shot. As in a normal car, you must renew left and right side simultaneously!
Then there is a central sphere, the so-calles accumulator. This is located near the engine, right between the radiator and engine body. If you hear lots of ticking (once every few seconds) while the engine is idle, the accumulator is shot. It plays a very important role in the system.
Then, according to the age of the car you may or not have additional spheres, such as anti-sink, hydractive, etc.
Xantia Activa 2.0 HDi (1999)
Renault Clio 1.9D (1994)
BX 16TRS (1984) - RIP
Fiat Uno 45s (1987) - RIP
Renault Clio 1.9D (1994)
BX 16TRS (1984) - RIP
Fiat Uno 45s (1987) - RIP