ZX TD Engine Swap this weekend…

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rashmore
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ZX TD Engine Swap this weekend…

Post by rashmore »

Have replaced pug 309 engine few years ago but any helpful hints / tips much appreciated, to summarise...
Get new cambelt and drive shaft seals – fit while on pallet. – do I need to get piston 1 at TDC before locking pulleys (or will holes not present themselves until I do so ?), lock all pulleys, loosen tensionor, remove belt, check water pump, ensure all is clean from oil/water, add new belt, re-tension.
Best to drop engine down out of car as opposed to lift it up out of the top - less to remove?
Drain coolant, gearbox oil, remove exhaust, gear linkages, driveshafts, accelerator/clutch/speedo cables, label wiring if necessary, disconnect battery, wiring loom, coolant pipes, fuel check nothing still attached. Take strain with hoist, loosen remove sub frame, upper engine mounts, lower engine to ground, lift shell up and drag engine out. Refit is reverse…leaving only the coded fuel pump to tackle once engine in.
Cheers
Sounds simple enough,don't think have i missed anything major......Just hope the rain stays off otherwise will have to tidy garage.
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Post by Peter.N. »

If you can get to the timing hole behind the starter, poke a bit of 5/16 rod or a drill into it and turn the engine round until it drops into the flywheel and locks the engine, you should then find that it is on TDC and the holes in the camshaft and pump sprockets will line up so you can put bolts in. (or the proper tool if you are lucky enough to have one)
rashmore
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Post by rashmore »

would u go for peogeot belt (at around £28) or motor factors at £15 ?
One from Citroen is £15.88, so go for that one me thinks.
Prices for seals vary widly between the pug/citroen....
AlWilliams
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Post by AlWilliams »

I'd stick a new water pump and tensioner in as well, if you are in any doubt about originals age / condition.
As for getting the engine out, I used the dropping down method as well. If i did it again I'd go for the tilt and up way instead, this is due to a couple of reasons.
1. The engine is a bugger to shift once on the deck
2. The last remnents of engine / gearbox oil and coolent seem to appear in supprising quantities, all over the floor
3. Getting the car into which it'll be fitted back over the lump and box is again a pain.
I don't think you need to shift much more to lift up.
Which ever way you go for, getting the radiator out can be a good plan, and an unexpected slip of the engine / tool in the process can wreck it (also you've more room to work with it out).
Hope this helps a bit.
Al
rashmore
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Post by rashmore »

Good news - the engine is out. Bad news took much longer than anticipated, shan't even go there. Pesky bottom radiator hose, captive nuts my arse...went for the up and out route [:)] thanks for previous advise.
While engine out, going to perform some welding - usual suspects - behind PAS resevior, suspension turrets. Anywhere else should look for while got access ?
Took radiator out, green, blue and white deposits so defo leaking.
Air filter box is falling apart, so looking at replacing - anybody swapped with alternative system from other car, or simply stuck cone filters - curious as limited air flowing into engine bay (currently black plastic scoop feeds air down into the filter housing which is conveniently sited 4 inches from the floor so it can soak up water .....any thoughts for a diesel ?
Finally, would it be worth integrating a second intercooler into the system, afteral I have two now....
Look forward to your thoughts
jeremy
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Post by jeremy »

A second intercooler would I think produce more turbolag as it would take longer to build up pressure in two than in one.
I know wondrous things are claimed for intercoolers but has anyone any actual figures. I know the Peugeot 205 turbo without an intercooler claimed about 80 BHP and the TD BX with the intercooler claimed about 88 BHP but is that actually there all the time or only in warm weather?
I suppose I could bypass it and see what happened!
Jeremy
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Post by oilyspanner »

That differing figure for the 205/BX is probably about right, look at the non intercooled Xantias, and older Renaults, hardly worth having the turbo there, they were fitted mainly for emissions reasons, just stick a bonnet scoop on to keep cold air flowing over your standard intercooler, tweak the wastegate (find this and clean/lubricate the threads now whilst its at your mercy) dial in a little extra fuel and enjoy!
Stewart
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Post by rashmore »

Mine has the new shape grill with the liner (now soaked in oil) directing air from the front of the car into the intercooler. Suppose a dedicated scoop would be more effective...tho trying to be subtle
hmm worth getting a boost gauge while can see bulk head and route?
previous engine fuel/turbo was tweaked, and made great improvement, so once know this running ok, that was the next plan.....
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Post by RichardW »

Rich,
Just thought - while the lump is out, change the water pump inlet / hose connector on the back of the block. It costs about a tenner, but is a swine to change with the engine in situ. Sod's law says it will start leaking a week after you get it back together!
I would change the water pump too - again another tenner, but a swine to do in situ.
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Post by oilyspanner »

And the two short rubber pipes either end of the steel water pipe running along the back of the block, the one on to the stat housing is easy but the other one is bloody near impossible without pulling the lump out.
Stewart
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