ZX RHS Driveshaft Intermediate Bearing

teabag · Post by **teabag** » 08 Sep 2005, 01:52

I'm about to change RHS driveshaft on my 1.9D ZX (152K). I've done the left before but I have some questions about the intermediate bearing.
Firstly, does the shaft normally come out ok or is it likely to get stuck. Any advice if it gets stuck?
Secondly, does the inner bearing come out with the shaft. If it does, I expect I will need to pull it off and put it on the new shaft.
If I find that the bearing is knackered, how easy is it to change? I guess I'll need to remove the housing. Any idea how hard that will be.
Lots of questions, I hope you can help.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 08 Sep 2005, 06:02

It is assumed you have removed the axle centernut (35mm or 1 3/8" socket), disassembled the lower swivel joint and eased out the CV joint from the hub.
On the intermediate bearing housing you can see 2 locknuts - on the threaded ends of 2 bolts. These bolts have L-shaped heads and holds the bearing in the bearing housing. Unwind (do not remove) the 2 locknuts until the bolts can be turned 180deg to release the bearing.
Now the swearing and cursing starts. In 99.95% of all cases the bearing is stuck inside the housing because of bearing surface rust (against the allloy housing !).
Only solution is to whack the bearing and/or lockring from behind (outwards) to get it out. Shift your tool between upper and lower on the bearing to try get it out squarely. Keep in mind the bearing housing is alloy, and wont withstand a mad whacking DIY mechanic [B)]
As you can understand the bearing will not exactly be in any good/better shape after such an exercise [8]
You MUST replace it - if you dont want to replace it later on - with axle removal repeated once more [8D]
The bearing is a snug fit on the axle. Furthermore there is a friction fit lockring which holds the bearing on the axle.
Both lockring & bearing resides on a raised portion of the axle meaning you only have to slide these parts a bit more than there own width to get them off. The inner TRI-joint cup is perfect as a lever point using a pair of crowbars.
I seem to remember that new axles comes with a new intermediate bearing fitted. If not - you simply purchase an industri standard type 6006 bearing (+ any applicable code for dust covers) - then re-use the lockring (heat it in an oven before re-fitting).
May the forces be with you [^]

Post by **Peter.N.** » 08 Sep 2005, 14:31

As anders says, I think that the new shaft comes complete with bearing and if you fit secondhand one it certainly will. One way I have found to remove a stuck in bearing, is to clamp a large pair of mole grips onto the shaft and knock it outwards.

fastandfurryous · Post by **fastandfurryous** » 08 Sep 2005, 15:33

The best way I've found for re-fitting the bearing, and it's retaining ring is with a piece of steel tube. This bears nicely on the inner race of the bearing/retaining ring, and means a perfect square push.
If the bearing is utterly siezed in the alloy housing, it is possible to remove the housing (4 bolts into the block) with the shaft, and then hit it off "on the bench" which is an awful lot easier than trying to hit the bearing, upside down underneath the car. When re-fitting, a good splodge of grease between the bearing and the alloy carrier will make the job several thousand times easier next time. (when you have to take the geabox off in 3 weeks time [:(]

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 08 Sep 2005, 17:10

F & F :
It is <font color="red"><i>NOT</i></font id="red"> possible to remove the housing with axle located - unless you yank out the axle to the damage point in the diff [B)]
The housing has 2 precision location pegs which needs to get out at least some 8mm for the housing to clear the engine block. At that point the diff bearing is under severe damaging stress from the angled axle.
Dont ask me how I know !

fastandfurryous · Post by **fastandfurryous** » 12 Sep 2005, 16:14

Bizzare. The last one I took off that was utterly utterly siezed (a TU series engine in a 306) didn't have any form of location dowels, and by undoing the 4 16mm head bolts, the driveshaft could be easily removed with the housing carrier, no misalignment needed.
Maybe it's only XU(D) engines that have the location dowels?

Stuart McB · Post by **Stuart McB** » 13 Sep 2005, 00:47

Oh yeah the intermediate bearing is held in its housing by two (8mm) off center dowels with nuts on the back. Slacken nuts and ten turn anti-clockwise.

fastandfurryous · Post by **fastandfurryous** » 15 Sep 2005, 05:37

What Anders was referring to is dowels between the alloy housing and the engine block. My suggestion was that if the bearing won't come out of the housing, then just take the housing off the engine block and remove it with the shaft, but this would appear to be not possible on some cars because of these dowels.
The "Hockey stick bolts" that hold the bearing in aren't dowels!

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 15 Sep 2005, 20:43

Looking forward to read about Teabag's driveaxle escapades .... [:)]