Front Caliper Piston Retractiom
Moderator: RichardW
Managed to get the piston back in using borrowed retraction tool for VW. O/S needs to be turned anticlockwise so I assume N/S is clockwise.
Now I want to change the discs I have to get the dreaded calipers off! Why don't they use bolts instead of those stupid curved hex screws? Can't use impact screwdriver as too close and have bent a spanner on hex key and failed (so far until I get mad) with cold chisel! WD40 everywhere to no avail. They've gotta be right hand thread both sides surely?
Any advice for next stage please?
Now I want to change the discs I have to get the dreaded calipers off! Why don't they use bolts instead of those stupid curved hex screws? Can't use impact screwdriver as too close and have bent a spanner on hex key and failed (so far until I get mad) with cold chisel! WD40 everywhere to no avail. They've gotta be right hand thread both sides surely?
Any advice for next stage please?
They have red locktite in them (don't forget to aplly some when mounting it back!!).
Usually the solution is heating the screw to "cook" the locktite, but it's not advised on this case [:(].
Have faith and strenght, as i've passed through this same procedure with the 406.
Do you have a fellow mechanic who can lend you his torx set?
Usually the solution is heating the screw to "cook" the locktite, but it's not advised on this case [:(].
Have faith and strenght, as i've passed through this same procedure with the 406.
Do you have a fellow mechanic who can lend you his torx set?
They really are tight. Have even resorted to a cold chisel and club hammer. No torx set friend unfortunately. I have a cheap one for the smaller ones. Maybe worth investing in a decent one before I wreck it.
When I do get them off, I'm thinking of replacing them with ordinary bolts.
At least I can put it back as it was for a few weeks until I get sorted as there is a little meat left on the old pads.
When I do get them off, I'm thinking of replacing them with ordinary bolts.
At least I can put it back as it was for a few weeks until I get sorted as there is a little meat left on the old pads.
I assume that you took the calipers off and were just left with the metal'cradle' that they bolt to. This is, as you say, held on by two torx bolts.
Yes, mine were bloody tight too...at one stage I wondered if they were actually going to come undone at all. It was mader slightly easier by getting the car up on an axle stand, and having the steering turned to full outward lock on the side I was working on.The bolts seem to corrode on the very outer end of the thread, where the road muck gets in. Soaking mine in WD40 helped somewhat. They had also been assembled with blue, not red Loctite from new. I've wire brushed the threads on mine, and reassembled with more blue Loctite. I too great care to make sure it was on the full length of the thread, as I reckon this should stop corrosion starting again. I wouldn't recommend using ordinary bolts in their place, I would definitely use the proper Cit. ones, I guess they are high tensile and holding the front calipers on firmly is a safety related issue......
Yes, mine were bloody tight too...at one stage I wondered if they were actually going to come undone at all. It was mader slightly easier by getting the car up on an axle stand, and having the steering turned to full outward lock on the side I was working on.The bolts seem to corrode on the very outer end of the thread, where the road muck gets in. Soaking mine in WD40 helped somewhat. They had also been assembled with blue, not red Loctite from new. I've wire brushed the threads on mine, and reassembled with more blue Loctite. I too great care to make sure it was on the full length of the thread, as I reckon this should stop corrosion starting again. I wouldn't recommend using ordinary bolts in their place, I would definitely use the proper Cit. ones, I guess they are high tensile and holding the front calipers on firmly is a safety related issue......
Went to Halfords and bought a Torx 50 3/8" socket which seemed to match the hex I'd been trying to use. Found it was too small so got the 55 which looked too big but fitted like a glove! £3.29 each - good investment.
Warmed it up as much as possible safely. when it cooled down I broke my 3/8" ratchet trying to undo it so bought a 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor and put a 1/2" T bar on it. Eventually, it moved - what a relief.
Reassembled with blue loctite. Others were easier after I knew what to expect. Thanks for your encouragement, Sir Clive.
In summary: Offside changed in 1 week, nearside changed in 30 minutes, downed a bottle of Prosecco to celebrate!
The moral: Get the right tools before you start. I already knew that but had managed to get away without them on my old BX, probably because things were lighter duty.
Warmed it up as much as possible safely. when it cooled down I broke my 3/8" ratchet trying to undo it so bought a 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor and put a 1/2" T bar on it. Eventually, it moved - what a relief.
Reassembled with blue loctite. Others were easier after I knew what to expect. Thanks for your encouragement, Sir Clive.
In summary: Offside changed in 1 week, nearside changed in 30 minutes, downed a bottle of Prosecco to celebrate!
The moral: Get the right tools before you start. I already knew that but had managed to get away without them on my old BX, probably because things were lighter duty.