I need a bit of help here please!
The heater fan on my BX doesn't work. I have connected a spare heater fan to the two terminals and it runs fine, including varying speed as it should. This means the fan motor in the BX is duff.
I've removed the full heater fan assembly and split the plastic apart to reveal the fan and motor. I cannot see a way to remove the fan motor from the plastic casing. I don't want to force it too much - I've done this in the past and broken the fan blades [:o)], so I want to do this properly.
Has anyone reconditioned a late model BX fan? Has anyone any idea how I can remove the fan motor from the plastic housing?
BX Heater Fan
Moderator: RichardW
Fan MUST be removed complete as an assembly : motor & blower wing. Otherwise you must go shopping.
The rear side where the male spade connectors goes in is where you start the operation.
1) remove the 2 male spade connectors. NOTE they are not only red & black - but different size NOT to reverse blower direction [8)]
2) 2 ea. Philips screws will be seen - and close to these there are a fragile plastic snap dingy at each screw. Remove screws.
3) now start pushing with steel rods thru the screw holes while you hold the blower housing - and push release the snap locks. Only thing really holding blower motor is surface rust in housing cup.
The motor will more than likely have serviceable axle bushings - ready for a greasing. New brushes are not easy to find. Use standard motor brushes a bit larger easy to modify. Leave 0.5" of old brush wire to join with new (solder).
NOTE : Brushes MUST be sintered copper.
Now the fan should outlast the car.
The rear side where the male spade connectors goes in is where you start the operation.
1) remove the 2 male spade connectors. NOTE they are not only red & black - but different size NOT to reverse blower direction [8)]
2) 2 ea. Philips screws will be seen - and close to these there are a fragile plastic snap dingy at each screw. Remove screws.
3) now start pushing with steel rods thru the screw holes while you hold the blower housing - and push release the snap locks. Only thing really holding blower motor is surface rust in housing cup.
The motor will more than likely have serviceable axle bushings - ready for a greasing. New brushes are not easy to find. Use standard motor brushes a bit larger easy to modify. Leave 0.5" of old brush wire to join with new (solder).
NOTE : Brushes MUST be sintered copper.
Now the fan should outlast the car.
Cheers, Anders. I had already removed and split the large duct housing. When I took more time, yesterday evening, I realised the fan and motor was just a push fit! Boy, was I embarassed I'd asked a question here[:I][:o)]
Anyway, as expected it was the brushes. I salvaged a pair from an old motor and filed them to size. Now all working![:D]
I was surprised at the lack of speed; it seems less able than the AX fan I tested the installation with! Next, I guess, is the mod to give full speed to the fan; I know I've seen it on a website (with pictures) but I canot remember where - any ideas?
Anyway, as expected it was the brushes. I salvaged a pair from an old motor and filed them to size. Now all working![:D]
I was surprised at the lack of speed; it seems less able than the AX fan I tested the installation with! Next, I guess, is the mod to give full speed to the fan; I know I've seen it on a website (with pictures) but I canot remember where - any ideas?
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tomsheppard
- Posts: 1801
- Joined: 19 Dec 2002, 14:46
- Location: United Kingdom
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A copy of Tom's info is found here - with even some more info collected as a complete step by step article :
http://www.citroenbx.net/Pages/tartikkel2.html
Unfortunately in norwegian - but should be able to be Shakespear'ed thru one of the many webtranslators online.
In this article you see a copy of Tom's pictures. You also see a PCB from the maker TRW with a different design. In my TRD yet a 3.rd maker TORRIX PCB was fitted with a further different design. (But this one did not need a modification. )
In all 3 cases the layout of the copper tracks are similar to such an extent you can easily recognise the modification needed (IF needed).
http://www.citroenbx.net/Pages/tartikkel2.html
Unfortunately in norwegian - but should be able to be Shakespear'ed thru one of the many webtranslators online.
In this article you see a copy of Tom's pictures. You also see a PCB from the maker TRW with a different design. In my TRD yet a 3.rd maker TORRIX PCB was fitted with a further different design. (But this one did not need a modification. )
In all 3 cases the layout of the copper tracks are similar to such an extent you can easily recognise the modification needed (IF needed).