BX 19

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sh
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BX 19

Postby sh » 18 Apr 2001, 15:45

Hi..can anyone help please?
I'm a newbie and need to know how to change/replace the rear sphere plus help on how to access the dashboard bulbs for replacement.
all advice given will be greatly appreciated...Thanks in advance!
BX 19 TXD 1992/93
Edited by - sh on 18 Apr 2001 11:44:39
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alan s
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Postby alan s » 19 Apr 2001, 12:44

The rear spheres have to follow a set procedure to change.
Firstly; Set the suspension right to the highest setting (the one used for wheel changing)
VERY IMPORTANT: If the vehicle is not being worked on over a pit, you MUST - repeat MUST put axle stands in a position so that they will stop the car from falling on you if you accidentally lose pressure either by a sudden leak or through the height corrector being disturbed.
Next you use a chain type oil filter remover or a special sphere remover & wrap around the sphere. It will unscrew in an anti-clockwise direction. They are normally very tight, so a lot of force is required to initially loosen them.
WHEN YOU FEEL IT START TO TURN - STOP UNSCREWING IMMEDIATELY.
Loosen only 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn.
Then drop suspension adjustment lever to the LOWEST setting & release the bleed screw on the accumulator; this is a 12 mm bolt which is accessed from the front of the car it is slightly right of centre of the car just behind the radiator. Loosen 1 - 1 1/2 turns.
The spheres should by then screw off by hand.
If the membrane is ruptured internally, it is possible for a fair amount of LHM to spray from them giving the impression that there is still some slight pressure in the system.
It is important to note that throughout the entire unscrewing procedure that a careful eye is kept on the cylinders that the spheres screw into to make sure that they do not start to turn, as if they do, the pipes leading to & from the cylinders can be damaged.
Upon completion, remove wheel stands (if possible) & reset suspension to normal ride height. Retighten accumulator bleed screw & start motor. If the car refuses to rise after a couple of minutes, you can loosen the bleed screw a couple of times; if this makes no difference, remove the intake line to the LHM pump which is a 1/2" approx black rubber looking hose which leads from the LHM tank down to the pump & prime with LHM. As soon as you hear the pump start to pulse & see the LHM in the hose disappearing down the hose fast, either quickly refit the hose to the tank (having already fitted a new jubilee clip loosely over it) or have an assistant in the car to switch the engine off when told. Once the car has pumped up, again bleed the system via the accumulator 12mm bleed screw a couple of times & the job is all over. It was recently suggested by someone that a film of silicone grease should be put on the threads & "O" rings of spheres prior to fitting to help prevent them jamming & making future sphere changings less traumatic.
The whole job, although when spelt out in this much detail may sound daunting, is in fact about 15 to 20 minutes a side (dramas permitting) It is a very minor & simple operation which demands common sense in relation to both the job & personal safety.
Hope you find it as simple as it really should be.
Alan S
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thew
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Postby thew » 24 Apr 2001, 22:07

Right, dashboard bulbs. First take off anything obvious, like the two screws between the steering wheel cowling and instrument panel. There are two more as well, but it is ages since I did this. Then the tricky bit that you may not be able to work out by yorself is to take out the clock and tray from the middle of the dash (always assuming it doesn't fall out already all by itself) and put your arm behind the dashboard and find/remove the plastic wing nut. There is one on the other side which you can just reach by by sitting on the floor outside the car facing the rear and sticking your right arm right up the back of the dash. Wear some sleeves, it's a bit rough up there. After that there is some plastic clippery I think, but it's fairly obvious. 2 points. Replace all the bulbs, or you'll end up doing it again soon. Check they all work before putting it all back together again. I found that some of the metal ears on the new bulbs needed squeezing together a bit to make a good contact. Finally, if it's a late BX, take the bulb out of the clock and take this to your motor factor as it is the same type as in the dash, and it'll mean you can do the job all at once.
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